What is Serging?
Serging is a technique of overlocking the seams of fabric to prevent raveling and creating a more professional look and feel. It is commonly found in higher-end garments and fashionable apparel and is more resilient than the traditional process of finishing seams with a machine-stitched zig-zag stitch. This process of creating the tight edge with several sets of threads is the essence of a serger, which is often referred to as an overlocker. Traditionally, sergers were much larger than regular sewing machines and mechanically quite different in design.
Can A Regular Sewing Machine Do Serging?
The answer to this question is both yes and no. If your regular sewing machine is of a fairly modern model, then yes, it can do some serging. Modern sewing machines come with a variety of features, many of which are geared toward creating professional looking garments. With features such as a 3 or 4-thread overlock stitch, an adjustable stitch width, and stitch length for better control over the look and feel of the finished product, sewers can use modern sewing machines to help create the same look and feel that sergers are known for.
However, if your regular machine is older than 10-15 years old, then it is unlikely that it will be able to create the same professional looking finish. Older machines simply do not offer the same types of features and capabilities as modern machines, so it is important to understand the limitations before deploying your machine to do specialized work like serging.
Benefits of Serging with a Regular Sewing Machine
Using a regular sewing machine to do serging offers some advantages over using a serger alone. For one, they are generally much more affordable when compared to a serger or professional overlocker. Additionally, users may be more comfortable using a machine that they are already familiar with. A regular sewing machine may also be more suitable for small-scale serging projects like hemming jeans or sewing simple garments.
Limitations of Serging with a Regular Sewing Machine
Serging with a regular sewing machine can be more time consuming and leave a less professional finished appearance. Without the automatic feeders and blades that come with sergers, users must manually position and reposition the fabric to get an even finish. Additionally, stitches created with a regular sewing machine cannot match the durability and strength of those produced with a serger.
Alternatives to Serging
Serging is not the only option for creating professional-looking seams. For instance, French seams and Hong Kong seams are two alternatives that are more widely used in the fashion industry. French seams are created by sewing the seam, trimming it, folding it inwards on itself, and then sewing it a second time. This creates an extra neat finish and is ideal for sheer and lightweight fabrics. Hong Kong seams are an interesting method of finishing the inside raw edges of garments without the use of a serger by using a very narrow seam allowance and doubling the fabric over on itself.
Additional Equipment
In order to use a regular sewing machine to do serging, sewers may need to purchase some additional equipment to make their project a success. These can include an edge guide and an overlock presser foot. The edge guide lines up the fabric, enabling sewers to maintain an even serging finishing and the overlock presser foot makes it easier to guide the material with one hand, whilst using the other for controlling the machine.
The Right Thread
Depending on the look and strength of the seam, sewers may need differentweights of thread as well as a variety of colors. For the strongest look and feel, polyester serging thread is generally the most recommended. As for colors, for a uniform finish, try and match the thread to the fabric color. Alternatively, for a two-tone look, try contrasting thread colors – this is especially eye-catching with striped fabrics.
Advanced Techniques
If you’re feeling adventurous, there are a multitude of advanced techniques you can use to create beautiful serging stitches with a regular sewing machine. These can include a mock overlock stitch, a reverse cover stitch and even a rolled hem. While some of these techniques do require specialized equipment, many can be done using a regular machine and a few clever techniques.
Presser Feet
The type of presser foot used on a regular sewing machine may also have an impact on the quality and appearance of the serging stitch. Most new models come with an overlock foot as an extra attachment, however if you are using an older machine, you may need to buy one. The other alternative is to use a regular presser foot with a special serger adapter, which makes it possible to use a regular presser foot with a drifferent kind of foot. The type of presser foot best suited to your project will depend on your experience and skill level, as well as what type of fabric or material is being used.
Tension Matters
When it comes to getting perfect serging stitches, the correct tension is key. This can be toggled on most modern machines by adjusting a couple of knobs. Generally the looser the tension, the more open the stitch will be, whereas tighter tension gives a more defined stitching line. The optimal tension for quality serging will vary depending on the project, the fabric and the desired look.
Skills and Practice
As with anything, to get the best results, practice and experience is essential. It may take a few attempts to get the hang of it, but with a bit of patience and a positive attitude, anyone can start mastering the art of serging with a regular sewing machine. Once you have the basics in hand, the possibilities are endless!
