Background Info On Leather Sewing
Leather is a common material used in the production of clothing and other apparel. While the fabric has long been a staple of fashion, sewing leather can present some additional challenges. Understanding the characteristics of leather and adapting one’s methods of sewing can be essential to effectively working with the material. Fortunately, a reliable method of sewing leather on a normal sewing machine is possible for those with enough patience.
What Are The Challenges Of Leather Sewing?
Sewing leather is a unique challenge when compared to other fabrics. It is an inherently tough material, which means it is generally difficult to sew and can put major strain on a regular sewing machine’s motor and components. The thickness of the material itself can prove difficult for a machine, and a needle designed for regular fabric may not be suitable either and will be prone to breakage.
In addition, fabric such as leather absorbs moisture and oils that can lead to the original leather color and texture to be damaged or distorted. This can leave the leather in a weakened state and make it difficult to maintain its properties during the sewing process. Specialized needles, threads, and machines are needed when working with leather to keep it from losing its strength.
Can You Use A Normal Sewing Machine To Sew Leather?
Leather is a challenging material for a normal sewing machine to handle. However, an experienced sewer can use a regular machine to manage it if some precautions are taken. To sew leather effectively, the material needs to be stabilized, such as by using interfacing, and a special size 110/18 needle needs to be used. The foot of the machine should be changed to either a roller or a Teflon foot. Oil should also be applied to the throat plate to prevent the leather from sticking.
For patches or lighter leathers, a regular setting stitch length of 2.5 to 3 mm can generally do the trick. However for thicker leathers, a longer stitch length should be used. The leather also needs to be pre-stretched to help control the bunches and puckering; the seams should be sewn in the same direction as the grain to maintain the balance of the leather. Lastly, thin layers should be sewn at a time and the same thread needs to be used on the underside of the fabric to both maintain the strength of the stitch and to protect the leather from damage.
Tips To Improve Leather Sewing On A Normal Sewing Machine
Sewing leather on a regular machine isn’t impossible, but it requires some effort and attention to get right. According to experts, here are some tips to get the best results:
- Use a heavier machine, such as a sewing machine with a 15 or 16 amp motor to give it more power to sew tougher fabrics.
- A 2-step zigzag stitch or triple zigzag stitch can be used to help strengthen seams.
- A special walking foot attachment should be used while sewing thicker leathers due to its improved gripping power.
- Choose thicker thread to both add strength to the material and maintain the beauty of the leather.
- Keep the machine well-oiled, as this helps the leather to glide through smoother.
Caring For The Sewing Machine When Sewing Leather
Working with leather on a regular machine does put some additional strain on the machine. As such, extra care needs to be taken to both make sure the machine is working properly and to try and prevent any potential damage. Taking breaks while working with leather is important to make sure the motor doesn’t overheat, and the needle should be inspected before and after every stitching session to make sure it hasn’t been bent or broken. Any felt or leather residue should also be cleaned off the machine to help keep it in proper working condition.
Why Is It Difficult To Sew Leather
The thickness of leather makes takes extra strain on a machine and its components such as the needle and thread. In addition, the fabric’s hard, stiff textures require added lubrication, as well as specialized needles and threads, which may add to the difficulty of sewing leather. Heat, pressure and poor sewing techniques can further damage the ability to sew leather in a proper manner.
How To Choose The Right Leather For Sewing
Thicker leathers require more effort to sew but can be quite durable when sewn properly. Medium-thickness leathers are best suited for sewing as they are easy to work with and won’t put too much strain on the machine. When selecting leather for a project, it is important to consider the type of leather, the thickness and size of the leather, as well as the texture of the leather to get the best results.
What Are Some Alternatives To Working With Leather?
Leather can be difficult to sew and may require extra set-up and tools to achieve the desired results. As such, there are some alternatives to consider such as faux leather, which can be purchased at many fabric stores. Faux leather is somewhat easier to sew with as it does not require special needles or threads, and it may also be more lightweight and pliable than traditional leather. Furthermore, faux leather often comes in various colors and finishes which may provide the desired look without the hassle of sewing traditional leather.
What Are The Benefits Of Sewing Leather?
Using leather in a project can provide numerous advantages. It is a material that is highly durable and long-lasting, and it also has a classic look that adds instant sophistication to any garment. Furthermore, leather is also relatively easy to care for and relatively comfortable to wear. As such, leather is a great choice for those looking to stitch something sturdy and sophisticated.
What Should I Know About Leather Sewing Patterns?
Many leather sewing patterns follow the same principles as regular fabric patterns, but there are some key differences. Since leather is a tougher material, the patterns require more adjustment in the form of altering seam allowances, using specialized feet and needles, and using a stretching technique known as bias binding between seams. Additionally, some patterns may require strengthening techniques such as bar tacks at various seams and stress points, as well as underlining in areas that need extra durability to keep the leather from stretching too much.
What Are Some Common Leather Sewing Tools?
Since sewing leather can be a bit tricky, certain tools can be used to help make the process easier. Here are some tools that can be particularly helpful when sewing leather:
- Edge Beveler: helps give extra support to the sewing edge and helps turn and burnish the leather.
- A rotary cutter: makes it easier to cut the leather in a straight line.
- A creaser pivoter: makes it easier to sew right angles and a creased edges.
- A leather punch set: aids in marking points and drilling holes when using specialized feet and needles.
- A leather awl: helps pull leather through the machine when needed.
- Leather needles and threads: these specially designed needles and threads help to keep leather strong during sewing.
How Can One Improve Their Leather Sewing Skills?
Practice is key to mastering the skill of sewing any material. With leather, it is important to practice on scrap pieces before attempting a full project. Trying different sewing techniques and observing how each one applies to the material can help speed up the overall learning process. Additionally, accessing tutorials, articles, and videos about leather sewing can be helpful for tailoring the skill to better suit one’s needs.
Other Popular Methods Of Sewing Leather
Apart from using a regular sewing machine, other tools can be used to effectively sew leather. Hand-stitching is the oldest method of stitching leather and still produces the most durable results using waxed needles and specialized stitching techniques. Machinery such as sewing awls and single point sewing machines can also be used to quickly sew intricate patterns onto leather without a needle and thread.
Where To Purchase Leather For Sewing
Leather can mostly be found at numerous fabric stores in the form of hides, upholstery remnants, upholstery leather straps, scrap leather, and suede. Online vendors are also a great source of leather, offering a wide range of colors, textures, and sizes at variable prices.
