Introduction
Sewing leather is a craft that has been around for centuries, and implies a certain mastery of the craft — one which involves both patience and skill, as well as the right tools and knowledge. A sewing machine enables fast and consistent stitching, a pursuit which can be challenging when done by hand. But when it comes to sewing leather, the question is often asked: “Can you sew leather with a sewing machine?” Generally speaking, the answer is yes.
The Basics of Sewing Leather With a Sewing Machine
In order to sew leather with a sewing machine, certain precautions and adjustments must be taken.
First, the needle must be changed when switching from fabric to leather, as a standard needle will not be able to make its way through the thick leather. A heavier, sharper needle is necessary when tackling leather. Also, the sewing machine must be tuned and adjusted for the type and thickness of the leather. Thread type is also important, as regular thread is not strong enough to withstand the leather material. Thick and strong waxed threads are the go-to choice when sewing leather.
Foot Pressure and Tension
Additional adjustments must be made to the sewing machine when it comes to foot pressure and tension. For this, a walking foot is often used. The walking foot enables the machine to press down on the material, ensuring a consistent level of pressure across the entire piece of leather. The optimum tension for thicker leathers can also be adjusted by loosening the tension control disk, which can be found above the pressure plate.
Stabilizing the Leather
The main challenge when sewing leather is the fact that it tends to move around while being worked on. To combat this issue, many recommend using an adhesive spray that can be purchased either at a specialty shop or online. Spaying the back of the leather before placing it on the machine prevents it from creeping and sticking during the stitching process.
Special Stitches
Various stitches can be created when sewing leather, including keyhole stitching. This stitch requires a special needle, but when executed correctly, results in a secure and tightly wound design. Sewing machines also enable the production of decorative stitches that are often used to create patterns and detailing on leather items.
The Final Clean Up
The final step in sewing leather is the clean-up stage. Specifically, removing loose and excess threads from the item. To do so, a sharp object such as a tweezer or scalpel can be used to cut away excess threads.
Type of Leather
When sewing leather, the type of leather should be taken into consideration. Specifically, whether it is an oil-tanned, waxed, or vegetable tanned hide. Oil tanning is leather tanned using oil, resulting in a more pliable material than other, higher-grade leathers. Waxed leather, meanwhile, is more resistant to water and, similarly to oil tanned leather, is highly pliable. Finally, vegetable tanned leather is high-quality leather, achieved through a process that involves several weeks to months of soaking in vegetable tanning agents.
Different Types of Leather Needles
Varying types of needles are required when working with different types of leather. For this, referring to a needle and thread chart can provide direction on which type of needle is appropriate for each leather type. For example, when sewing through oil-tanned leather, a size 90 needle with a sharp point and thick shaft is recommended.
The Benefits of Sewing Leather With A Sewing Machine
Sewing machines provide an added level of accuracy and consistency when creating leather items, and results can often be achieved in a fraction of the time that is required for hand-stitching. Additionally, skill level does not necessarily matter when sewing with a machine, as it mainly involves knowing how to adjust the machine and the knowledge to choose the right tools.
Taking Care of The Machine
As with any type of craft, it is important to take care of the tools used. When it comes to sewing machines, regular maintenance is important in order to keep the machine running smoothly. The needle should be inspected and changed periodically, as depending on the thickness of the leather being sewed regular needles can dull quickly.
Finding The Right Leather
When it comes to finding the right leather for any project, it is important to consider durability, thickness, texture, and stain resistance. Generally speaking, leather should be inspected and tested prior to purchase, to get a good understanding of how it behaves and how it responds to stitching.
Buying The Necessary Supplies
When it comes to sewing with a machine, the right supplies must be obtained. This includes a waxed thread, a special needle, and an adhesive spray. Additionally, depending on the project, specialty items such as a walking foot attachment and special tools for cutting, marking and molding can all be purchased to aide in the sewing process.
Machines Vs Hand Stitching
Often times, a debate surfaces when discussing the best approach to sewing leather — machine or hand stitching. Both methods have their advantages, it ultimately comes down to the desired outcome and the experience of the person sewing. Hand stitching provides a level of quality and detail which cannot be achieved with a machine. On the other hand, a machine can provide fast results that are precise and consistent.
Knowing the Proper Knotting Techniques
No matter which method is chosen,knowing the proper knotting techniques is essential. A single knot is used when starting and ending a seam, in order to ensure that the thread is securely fastened and won’t come undone. Double knots are used for added reinforcement, whereas long knots and short knots can provide different levels of security.
Leather Conditioning and Treatment
Leather may require conditioning and treatment when being worked on, to ensure that it retains its natural properties, such as softness and suppleness. To do so, special leather conditioners and sealing waxes can be used to protect the leather and add a layer of shine.
Selecting the Right Stitch
Selecting the right stitch for a project is an important part of the leather sewing process. Generally speaking, a straight stitch and a cross stitch are the two most commonly used stitches, with the straight stitch typically used for standard sewing and the cross stitch used for decorative purposes.
Summary
Sewing leather with a sewing machine can be a great way to reduce time and achieve consistent results. It is important, however, to take certain precautions, such as selecting the right type and thickness of leather, choosing a special needle for the job, adjusting the machine tension, and using an adhesive spray to keep the leather in place. With the right tools and supplies, and a bit of skill and practice, anyone can create beautiful and lasting leather items with a sewing machine.
