How Are Sewing Machine Needles Sizes

Finding the right needle size for your sewing project is very important in order to get the desired results. Unfortunately, choosing the right needle can be confusing because of the multiple systems used to label them. In this article, we’ll explore the various needle size labels, as well as how to identify the most suitable one for your project.

Lengths and Sizes

To begin with, sewing machine needles come in 4 lengths: short, medium, long and extra-long. Generally, the size numbers for a needle are associated with the European metric system but can range from 8 to 18. The higher the size number, the thicker and longer the needle. The short needles are typically used for light weight fabrics or fabrics with small stitches like microfibers, jersey or denim. Medium needles are common for most fabrics such as quilting cottons and denim. Long needles are used for large stitch sizes on heavy fabrics, while extra-long needles are used on leather. It’s essential to choose the right size needle depending on the weight of the fabric.

Types of Needles

In addition to selecting the correct size and length, it is important to note that there are different types of needles suitable for specific tasks. For example, standard needles are used on universal fabrics. Through needles are designed to lessen the visual appearance of hems and hem stitching on knits. Ballpoint needles are made to penetrate the fabric without tearing or puncturing knit fibers, making them perfect for use on all types of knit fabrics. A twin needle, which consists of two parallel needles on one shaft, allows for three-dimensional stitching that is often used on stretch fabrics. There are also specific needles for hand sewing, embroidery and sergers.

Thread Count and Needle Selection

The thread count of the thread used for the project is also another important factor that should be considered when selecting the proper needle size. Generally speaking, the higher the thread count, the finer the thread. The finer the thread, the thinner and shorter the needle should be. For example, if a 40 weight thread is being used, a size 8 or 9 needle is recommended. If a 30 weight thread is being used, a size 11 or 12 needle should be used. For thicker threads such as 50 weights and higher, a size 14 is best.

Using the Wrong Size Needle

Using the wrong size needle can result in uneven stitches, skipped stitches, broken needles, fabric damage and other sewing issues. For instance, using too large of a needle on thin fabrics can lead to holes in the fabric, while using too small of a needle on thick fabrics can result in skipped stitches, broken needles or fabrics not feeding correctly through the machine.

Choosing a Needle

In order to select the appropriate size sewing machine needle for your project, you’ll need to consider the type of fabric, thread count and stitch size. If you’re unsure of which needle to use, experimenting with different sizes is usually the best approach. Also, keep in mind that needles do wear out over time, so replacing them periodically is recommended.

Checking the Needle

Another important factor to consider is to check the needle for any signs of wear or bending. If either of these issues is present, it is best to replace the needle with a new one. Finally, always use new needles for embroidery projects and natural fabrics.

Comparing Metric and American Needles

Sewing machine needles are labeled with two numbers on their packaging. The first number is associated with the European metric system and ranges from 8 to 18. The second number corresponds to the American system which ranges from 60 to 160. The lower the American number, the larger the needle is. The higher the American number, the finer the needle.

Identifying the Right Needle

Overall, there are various factors that go into selecting the right needle size for a sewing project. It is essential to consider the type of fabric, the thread count, the stitch size and identifiers on the needle’s packaging when making your selection. By taking all of these factors into account, you’ll be able to identify the most suitable needle for your project.

Importance of Correct Needle Size

Using the wrong needle for a project can lead to irreparable damage. Choosing the appropriate needle size depends on what type of fabric and thread are being used, as well as the stitch size and length. Through selecting a needle that is suitable for the task at hand, it is possible to get the desired results from any project.

Alternatives to Needles

In addition to regular sewing machine needles, there are a number of alternatives for specific tasks. There are longarm needles for longarm quilting which are designed to withstand high speeds, as well as titanium-covered needles that are more durable and capable of producing better results. There are also needles specifically designed for sergers and overlockers, as well as needles made to sew elastic and other stretch material.

Thread Types and Needles

One other factor to consider is the type of thread being used. Both natural threads such as cotton and synthetic threads such as polyester require different needles. Natural threads require metal needles, while synthetic threads require plastic needles. It’s essential to choose the right needle for the type of thread being used for the project.

Needle Materials

Sewing machine needles are made from a variety of metals and plastics. The most common type is the metal needle, which is great for general sewing and is the most durable. Plastic needles are ideal for synthetic fabrics and are less likely to leave marks. Other materials such as Titanium or Hi-Speed needles are better suited for specific tasks, such as leather or quilting.

Summary

Needles come in a variety of sizes and lengths, and it’s essential to select the right one for your project. It’s important to consider factors such as the type of fabric, thread count, stitch size and length, as well as the type of thread being used when selecting the most suitable needle size. In addition, there are various needle types available and they should be used for specific applications. Finally, making sure the needle is not bent or damaged is also essential for achieving the desired results.

Geoffrey Kirby is an experienced author and sewist who has been creating sewn projects for over 20 years. He has a passion for teaching beginners and inspiring more advanced sewists both online and through his writings. Outside of writing about sewing, Geoffrey loves to explore new techniques and styles of sewing that incorporate upcycling fabric remnants into sweet items with personality.

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