How Do I Know What Sewing Machine Needle To Use

What is the Needle For?

The sewing machine needle is responsible for carrying the thread to the fabric, essentially running the stitch. Thicker needle sizes have a larger eye and can take larger threads, while thinner needles can take thinner threads. Needles also come in different shapes and sizes, which affect the stitch and the way in which the fabric is handled.
Each need has a size, type and point that needs to be matched to the fabric and the desired stitch. The size and type of needle depend on the weight of the fabric and the type of thread. As sewing machines are not all the same, it is important to check the handbook and the manufacturer’s instructions before selecting a needle size.

Types of Sewing Machine Needles

The first step in determining the correct needle is to figure out what type it is. Needles are available in two basic types. Universal needles are designed for fabrics like cottons, silks, light linens, and woolens. Ball-point needles, on the other hand, are specifically designed for knit fabrics.
Universal needles come in a variety of sizes, ranging from 60 to 120. As a general rule, a 60-size needle is used for very thin fabrics and a 120-size needle is used on heavier fabrics, such as denim and canvas.
Ball-point needles come in two sizes: 70 and 80. These are designed for stretch and knit fabrics. They are rounded, so the tip of the needle slides between the fibres of the fabric without damaging it.

Types of Needle Points

The point of the needle also needs to be taken into account when selecting a needle. There are four types of needles: thin, sharp, Universal and Quilting
Thin and sharp point needles are designed for delicate fabrics such as organza and tulle. These needles have a sharp point which is ideal for penetrating this type of fabric.
Universal needles have a medium ball point, which makes them suitable for fabrics of medium weight and knit fabrics. These needles have a slightly rounder point than sharp or thin needles.
Quilting needles are specially designed for quilting. These needles have a very sharp, long point and are made of thicker steel than other needles. They can easily penetrate multiple layers of fabric.

Determining Needle Length

Needle length is important, as it can affect the appearance of the stitch. The standard length is 1-1/4 inches, but longer needles can be used for thicker fabrics and shorter needles can be used for thin fabrics. Different brands of needles may also have varying lengths. It is important to check the manufacturer’s instructions for the proper needle length.

Selecting the Right Needle

When selecting a needle, it is important to consider not only the type of fabric and thread, but also the type of stitch desired. Different stitches require different needles. For example, if a straight stitch is desired, a Universal needle is the best choice. For a decorative stitch, a Quilting needle is recommended.
It is also important to check the needle size frequently and replace it with a new one if it is dull or bent. A dull needle will cause skipped stitches or fabric damage. A bent needle can also cause skipped stitches or fabric damage, as well as needle breakage.

What is the Golden Rule?

The golden rule of sewing machine needle selection is to select the correct needle for the job. Consider the fabric, thread, stitch, and size when selecting a needle. By using the correct needle and changing it or sharpening it when needed, sewing machine users can be sure that their project will be free of any defects caused by a dull or wrong-sized needle.

Storing Sewing Machine Needles

Once you have chosen the right needle, it is important to store it properly. It should be kept in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and any other heat sources. Many sewing machines have built-in needle storage compartments, which are perfect for keeping needles safe.

Maintenance Tips for Sewing Machine Needles

Sewing machine needles should be regularly checked for wear and tear. If the needle is bent or dull, it should be replaced. Dull needles should also be thrown away, as they can cause fabric damage.
Additionally, it is important to oil the machine regularly, as this helps to keep the needle running smoothly and prevents it from becoming damaged by friction.

Recommended Sewing Machine Needles for Different Fabrics

For light-weight fabrics, such as chiffon, organza and silk, a thin, sharp-point needle is recommended. For medium-weight fabrics, such as cotton, linen and wool, a Universal needle is best. For heavier fabrics and knit fabrics, Ball-point needles are the best choice. For quilting, a Quilting needle should be used.

Tips for Sewing with Different Fabrics

When sewing with different fabrics, it is important to remember a few key tips. For example, when sewing with lightweight fabrics, it is important to use a larger stitch length and, if necessary, baste the seam in place to help hold the fabric in place while stitching.
When sewing with heavier fabrics, it is important to use a smaller stitch length and, if necessary, reinforce the seam with additional stitches. Additionally, a walking foot can be used to help sew heavier fabrics more easily.

What are the Benefits of Hand Sewing?

Hand sewing can be a great alternative to machine sewing, especially for delicate fabrics. Hand sewing can provide more control over the stitches and the fabric, and, depending on the desired effect, can create more aesthetically pleasing results.
However, hand sewing is also time-consuming and it can be difficult to achieve the same precision and consistency as with a machine. As a result, it is usually advisable to use a machine for more complicated or large-scale projects.

Sewing Machine Needles for Fancy Stitches

When using fancy stitches, it is important to use the correct needle. Depending on the type of stitch, a Quilting or Universal needle might be required. Additionally, when using specialty threads, such as metallic or ribbons, it is important to use the correct needle to prevent the thread from becoming damaged or breaking.

Machine Embroidery Needles

For machine embroidery, it is important to use a machine embroidery needle. These needles are made with a slightly larger eye, which makes it easier to thread the embroidery thread. Additionally, the needles have a specially designed point which helps to ensure that the fabric isn’t damaged while embroidering.

What is the After Care for Sewing Machine Needles?

Once a project is finished, it is important to perform regular maintenance. This includes regularly checking the needle for wear and tear, replacing it when necessary, and ensuring that the machine is oiled and properly maintained. Additionally, it is important to store the needles properly in a cool, dry place.

Geoffrey Kirby is an experienced author and sewist who has been creating sewn projects for over 20 years. He has a passion for teaching beginners and inspiring more advanced sewists both online and through his writings. Outside of writing about sewing, Geoffrey loves to explore new techniques and styles of sewing that incorporate upcycling fabric remnants into sweet items with personality.

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