Step 1: Choose the Right Type of Needle
Making the right decision when selecting a needle for a sewing machine can be critical to ensuring that the finished project looks good and is of high quality. Although it is possible to use any needle with any sewing machine, it is best to consider the weight and type of fabric being sewn as well as the type of stitch, like straight, zigzag, or buttonhole. Generally, a needle should be sharp and have a slight taper on the end. Needles also come in a variety of sizes, which range from 8/60 to 21/190.
For heavier fabrics and thicker threads, a heavier needle is usually necessary. Denim and heavier weight upholstery and canvas fabrics require a needle in the 16/100 or 18/110 size range. For medium weight fabrics, a 12/80 or a 14/90 can be used. For light weight fabrics, a size 9/65 to 11/75 is recommended.
Step 2: Select a Quality Needle Brand
The quality of the needle is also important. While some may decide to opt for discount needles, it is important to remember that split or worn needles can cause sewing problems. Look for needles that are made of strong alloy metals, nickel-plated inners, and chrome-plated sharps. A good standard is a Schmetz brand needle. Other brands to consider include Organ, Pony, and Groz-Beckert.
Step 3: Change the Needle
Before changing the needle, always turn off the power to the sewing machine and be sure to unplug it. Many modern machines have a release button or lever near the top of the presser foot. This button can be used to remove the presser foot, allowing for access to the needle.
Using needle-nosed pliers or a flat blade screwdriver, unscrew the needle holder or screw until the needle can be removed. Do not attempt to pull the needle out, as this may cause damage to the needle holder. Place the new needle in the same orientation that the old needle was in, making sure that the groove on the shaft is facing the back. Once the needle is secure, replace the presser foot and make sure the button or lever is completely pushed in.
Step 4: Align the Feed Dog
To ensure that the fabric feeds smoothly and evenly, adjust the feed dog, or metal teeth underneath the presser foot. If it is too close to the needle, it may catch the fabric, causing the needle to break. On most sewing machines, the feed dog can be adjusted with a small set screw located directly beneath the presser foot.
Step 5: Test the Needle
Once the needle is installed, it is important to make sure that it is working correctly. To test this, make sure the machine is in the reverse stitch setting and stitch a few inches. After a few stitches, stop the machine and turn the hand wheel to make sure that the needle is going up and down. If the needle is not moving, check the needle and make sure it is firmly attached.
Step 6: Thread the Needle and Bobbin
Threading a needle and bobbin can be tricky, as this easily varies depending on the make and model of the sewing machine. Refer to the manual that came with the sewing machine in order to properly thread both the needle and bobbin. Make sure that the thread is not caught in the tension discs, as this may cause a jam or a broken needle.
Step 7: Test Stitching
Always test the needle and the new settings on a swatch of fabric before beginning a project. Start with a basic straight stitch, and then if needed, adjust the stitch length and width settings. After the settings are adjusted, sew another test swatch before beginning the actual project.
Threading Off-Loom Sewing Machines
For off-loom sewing machines, such as those used for embroidery or quilting, a different type of needle may be needed. Embroidery needles are designed for use with heavier threads and decorative stitches, while quilting needles are shorter, stronger needles with a longer eye for even stitching when using heavier fabrics and threads. For best results, use high quality needles that are free of burrs and other blemishes.
Suitable Needles for Special Threads
There are a few specialized needles available for various types of thread such as nylon or monofilament thread. Nylon thread should be used with a needle called a “universal sharp,” which is designed for tight, even stitches on all types of fabrics. Monofilament thread should be used with an organ needle, which is designed to be stronger and less prone to breakage.
A Final Word of Caution
It is important to note that improper needle insertion can cause the needle to break during use. Always check the needle to make sure that it is inserted correctly and that the needle clamp screw is tightened fully. Check the needle occasionally to make sure that it is still in good condition, and replace it if needed.
