Source of Materials
The needle used in a sewing machine is as important as the material used in the project. The size of the needle you choose is crucial as it affects stitch formation, durability, fabric fray and overall finish of the sewn project. The wrong needle size can cause fabric damage, snagging or tearing, incorrect tension and uneven stitch formation, so understanding the effects of needle size is key to successful projects.
Choosing the right needle for a particular fabric is best done by taking into account the size and type of fabric, the thread weight, and the purpose of the sewn project. The most common types of needles for home machines are universal, ballpoint, denim/jeans, leather and sharps. The type and size of the needle should match the fabric used in the project. If the needle is too large for the fabric, holes will be created when the needle pierces the fabric, leading to bigger, weaker stitches, and the fabric may even tear.
Manufacturers usually specify a range of needles that the machine can utilize, and most sewing machines come with an owner’s manual that explains the different needles that are available and the effects of using them on different fabrics. Different machines also have different sizes and needle types, so it’s important to check the owner’s manual to find the right type of needle for the task.
Understanding the Needle Size
The diameter and type of the needle used will affect the size of the stitch. The needle size affects the amount of thread drawn through the fabric and the tightness of the stitches. Generally, lighter fabrics with finer threads require a finer, smaller needle. Heavier fabrics with thicker threads require a larger, more robust needle. A number (EU) and a letter (American) is printed on every needle to indicate its size and type. A higher number (EU) or letter (American) means a larger size.
For heavier fabrics, a larger needle size is usually best to prevent burrowing and snagging of the fabric. It is important to note that denim needles, for example, typically come in larger sizes designed for thicker threads and fabrics. For lighter fabrics, such as chiffon or georgette, a smaller needle is better as it will not distort or tear the material.
The needle size should match the thread size. If a light weight thread is used with a heavy duty needle, the stitches may be too loose and cause puckering in the fabric. On the other hand, using a heavy, industrial thread with a light weight needle may result in tearing or damage to the fabric.
Testing the Needle
Using the right size needle is important, but not all needles are created equal and it is important to check the quality of the needle prior to use. Needles that are dull or damaged will cause problems and should be discarded. If a new needle is being used for the first time, it is recommended to test the needle on a small section of the fabric to make sure it is the correct size, type and quality and that there is even tension on the stitches.
Another way to test the needle is to run it across the surface of the fabric using your fingernail as a guage. If it slides smoothly, then the needle is the right size for that fabric. If it draggs or causes resistance then it’s too large and will pull the fabric threads instead of pushing through them.
When testing the needle, pay attention to how the fabric responds and if there is a tugging sensation from the needle on the fabric, then the needle might be the wrong size or type. Generally, it is best to err on the side of caution by using a slightly larger needle to avoid applying excessive tension on the fabric.
Safety Considerations
Safety is essential when working with a needle – even if you are an experienced sewer. Always pay attention to the stitch length and tension settings on the sewing machine when changing needle sizes to avoid accidents and injury. Make sure that the needle is securely inserted and locked before operating, and stop the machine if the needle appears to be too large or pulled too tightly.
It is also important to note that using the wrong needle can cause your sewing machine to jam. Always check the manufacturer’s instructions for the recommended needle size and type and try to use these whenever possible. If the right type of needle is not available, then make sure that the size and type of replacement needle is compatible with the machine before using it.
Conclusion
Choosing a needle for a sewing machine is a crucial step in creating a successful project. The size and type of the needle should match the fabric used for the project. Testing the needle is essential, particularly if it is a new needle, to ensure that the tension, stitch length and fabric responding correctly. Understanding the effects of needle size on fabric is also important, as the wrong size can cause fabric damage, snagging and uneven stitches. Always consult the manufacturer’s instructions for additional recommendations.
