Introduction
Sewing projects require precision and attention to detail. When starting a new project, choosing the right size of sewing machine needle is essential for the best outcome. The wrong size of needle can cause puckering, skipped stitches, uneven stitches and even needle breakage. Taking the time to choose a needle that’s the right size and type can improve the look, feel and durability of any sewing project.
Identifying the Right Size
When selecting a needle, the first place to start is size. The size of a needle typically indicates the thickness of the needle’s shaft. The size can be found by looking at the number printed on the shank of the needle. This number ranges from 8 to 18, where 8 is the thinnest, or smallest, and 18 is the thickest, or largest.
For general projects, the most common range used is size 9 to 14. Size 9 is usually used for thin or lightweight fabrics. For example, silk and chiffon use size 9 for its thinner threads. Size 14 is usually used for heavier material like denim, canvas, or corduroy. Typically, if the fabric is not thin and lightweight, then size 14 should suffice.
Identifying the Right Type
In addition to size, determining which type of needle to use is important. Sewing machine needles may be grouped into categories based on their design. Universal needles are the most popular type of needle and can be used with many types of fabric. Ballpoint needles are most often used with knit and stretch fabrics, and sharp needles are typically used with heavier fabrics like denim.
Each type of needle is designed for the most desirable sewing quality achieved on the fabric or thread type. With the wrong type of needle, the machine can slow down or skip stitches, or even break the thread. It’s imperative to use the right needle type to reduce the chance of breaking thread or damaging the fabric.
Selecting Threads
Choosing the right size and type of needle is only half the battle. Selecting the right type of thread is just as important, if not more. When selecting thread, the primary factor to consider is its strength. The thread should be able to withstand the tension the machine is putting on it, as well as the rigor it is going to go through while being put in place.
In addition, the color or texture of the thread should be as close to the fabric as possible. Certain fabrics, such as velvet and leather, require a finer thread for optimal results. Additionally, synthetic threads provide the best results for most fabrics, as opposed to cotton or linen. It’s important to take the time to choose the correct thread for the job.
Cleaning the Machine and Accessories
Finally, regular maintenance of the machine is crucial for optimal stitching performance. Keeping the machine clean, maintained and properly oiled can prolong the life of the machine and ensure the best stitching results.
Furthermore, keeping all accessories like the bobbin and attachments clean and free of lint and dust can prevent skipped stitches and puckering.
Replacing Needles
Needles need to be replaced once they become misshapen, bent or dull. Additionally, the needle size should be changed when beginning a new project. A new needle helps pierce the fabric much easier, thus reducing the chances of skipped stitches or fabric damage.
Universal Rules
Overall, when it comes to sewing, there are a few universal rules that should always be followed. The heavier the fabric, the thicker the needle; the finer the fabric, the finer the needle. Both needle size and type should be matched to the fabric being used. Additionally, the correct type of thread should always be used, and the machine and accessories should be regularly cleaned and maintained.
Testing the Needle
Once the needle, thread and machine are all set, it’s important to do a test before starting the project. Testing the needle on a scrap piece of fabric can allow the user to adjust the tension and settings, as needed. This can be especially helpful when working with new needles, as they may behave differently than what is expected.
Conclusion
When starting a sewing project, it’s important to choose the right size and type of needle to ensure the best outcome. Taking the time to select the right combination of needle, thread and fabric can give the user the best chance of success when working on any sewing project.
