Sewing machines have come a long way since the invention of the first mechanical model over two hundred years ago. Today, sewing machines are used for a variety of tasks, ranging from mending clothes to making elaborate quilts and upholstery. And while the modern machine has simplified the task of stitching fabric, selecting the right needle size is still an important factor in achieving the desired results. The improper selection of needle size can lead to skipped stitches, tension problems, and other technical issues. Before learning how to determine needle size for a sewing machine, it’s important to understand what size needles are available.
Needles come in a variety of sizes, ranging from 60/8 (the thinnest) to 120/19 (the thickest). The first number of the size denotes the European size, while the second number stands for the American size. Most sewing machines have adjustment screws or knobs that allow the user to adjust the needle type, size, and position for various types of fabric. Some modern sewing machines include an automated needle size selection feature that does the job for you.
When attempting to determine needle size for a sewing machine, the best way to do so is to consult the owner’s manual. Most user manuals contain detailed information on needle size and type settings recommended for certain types of fabrics. If you no longer have access to the manual, don’t worry – you can also check the size and type of needle that came with the machine, as it is usually the right size for the job. Some specialty needles may be slightly larger or smaller depending on the fabric, beading or embroidery thread being used.
In addition, there are a few basic rules of thumb to keep in mind when selecting needle size for a sewing machine. First, remember to use a finer size needle for lighter fabrics. Lightweight fabrics, like chiffon or organza, are best sewn with a needle size of 80/12 or 90/14. On the other hand, heavier fabrics, such as denim or canvas, require a larger needle size of 100/16 or 110/18. Additionally, you should use a new needle whenever beginning a new project. Old needles become worn down and can cause skipped stitches and tension problems.
Lastly, the type of needle is just as important as the size. Universal needles are the most commonly used and are great for a variety of fabrics, including cotton, linen and wool. Ball-point needles are specifically designed for knits and stretch fabrics, as the rounded tip slides between the knit stitches without breaking them. Embroidery needles have an extra-wide eye and a sharp point for use with decorative threads, while quilting needles have a sharp point and long shaft for use with multiple layers of fabric.
Select the Right Thread
When selecting thread for a sewing machine, it is important to match the thread to the needle size used. For light-weight fabrics, use light-weight cotton thread or polyester thread with a smaller needle size. Heavy-weight fabrics should be paired with heavier duty threads such as nylon or polyester with a larger needle size. In addition, matching the thread color to the fabric color will ensure that the stitches are well hidden.
Practice and Patience
Although choosing the right needle size for a sewing project may seem intimidating, practice and patience will make the task easier. If a project requires a specific size or type of needle, try it out before starting the actual project. Work with different needle sizes and types until you find the one that works best for the type of fabric being used. Remember to replace the needle often, as old needles can cause tension problems and other issues.
Essential Tool Kit
In addition to the right needle size, every sewer should have an essential tool kit that includes a seam ripper, measuring tape, pins, two needle threaders, fabric scissors, and a thimble. The seam ripper will save time when mistakes are made, while the measuring tape and pins help ensure accuracy. The needle threader and fabric scissors help save time when threading the needle and cutting fabric, while the thimble is essential for hand-stitching.
Considerations for Speciality Fabric
When sewing specialty fabrics, such as vinyl, leather, or faux fur, it is important to use heavy-duty needles with a sharp point, such as a leather or denim needle. These needles are designed to penetrate the material without breaking or snagging it. It is also important to use a heavier thread, such as polyester or nylon, to ensure that the stitches do not tear or fray the fabric.
Test the Stitches
To ensure that the right needle size is being used, it is important to test the stitches on a scrap of fabric similar to the one used in the project. The stitches should be evenly spaced and should not pucker the fabric. If the stitches are too loose or too tight, select a smaller or larger size needle and test again.
Regular Maintenance
Regularly maintaining a sewing machine is just as important as selecting the right needle size. To avoid malfunction, it is important to regularly clean the machine’s interior, oil and clean the bobbin case, and tighten any loose screws or bolts. Additionally, always remember to readjust the needle size and tension when switching fabrics or threads.
