The Basics of Cover Stitch
A cover stitch is the basic seam used to finish off the edges of garments after they have been hemmed. It is a popular choice for hems, sleeves, and necklines, as well as decorative stitching. Learning how to do a cover stitch on a sewing machine is essential for any serious seamstress or fashion enthusiast.
Tools Needed
In order to do a cover stitch on a sewing machine, you will need a few specialized tools. Beginning with the right machine, a coverstitch capable machine is strongly recommended. This type of machine has multiple needles and loopers specifically for creating a neat and tidy finish. Most good quality domestic machines will come with these options already fitted.
In addition to the machine, you will need an array of different presser feet and needles specially designed for the type of fabric you are working with. Coverstitch machines also require specific types of thread, including woolly nylon and bottom thread.
How to Set Up
Once you have your equipment ready, the next step is to set up your machine for the task. The manual is a great resource for learning how to do this properly. Start by threading the upper and lower looper, followed by the needle threads. Once you have your threads in place, use the appropriate presser feet and needles and set your stitch pattern.
On most coverstitch machines, the stitch pattern can be adjusted, allowing you to choose the ideal width and length for the seam. Finally, adjust your tension to ensure a tight and even stitch.
Choosing the Right Fabric
When selecting the fabric for your project, it is important to ensure it is suitable for the stitch you are going to be using. The most suitable fabrics for a coverstitch are lightweight and stretchy materials. However, if you are using a heavier material, it is best to use a stronger needle and thread.
If you are unsure, it is always best to test a small piece of fabric before you start, as some fabrics may not be suitable. This helps to prevent problems and will save you time in the long run.
Making the Cover Stitch
Once everything is properly set up, it is time to start making the cover stitch. Start by folding and pinning the fabric in place to keep it secure. Make sure to use the same type of pins for both the top and the bottom layers.
Hold the fabric tight and start sewing. As you are sewing, guide the fabric with your hands to ensure the it is not slipping or moving. The key is to keep the fabric as straight as possible to create a neat and even finish.
Presser Feet and Needles
Using the right presser feet and needles is vital in creating a good quality cover stitch. Different presser feet are designed to help you feed the fabric into the machine, while specific needles will help you get a neat and secure stitch.
Be sure to use the correct size needle for the type of fabric you are using. For example, if you are working with a lightweight fabric, you should use a lightweight needle. If you are working with a thicker material, opt for a stronger needle.
Using the Correct Stitch Pattern
The stitch pattern is the most important part of the coverstitch. Different patterns can give the project a totally different look. Once you have your fabric and needles ready, it is time to choose your ideal stitch pattern.
Common coverstitch patterns include the single-needle, two-needle and three-needle. The single-needle stitch creates a basic, but strong seam, while the two- and three-needle patterns provide a more decorative finish. Experiment with different patterns to find one that works for your project.
Using Accessories and Attachments
A great way to add a personal touch to your coverstitch is to use accessories or attachments. These are designed to make the sewing process easier and to provide decorative elements that can really make a garment stand out.
Popular accessories include edging feet, binder attachments, piping foot and heirloom attachments. There are many others, so be sure to explore the range to find options that suit your individual style.
Creating a Decorative Cover Stitch
Once you know the basics, it is time to experiment with different decorative stitching techniques. Decorative stitches can be created by switching between different stitch patterns.
To create a unique look, try combining two or more patterns for a decorative finish. You can also add beading, ribbons or lace to the fabric to create custom accents.
Troubleshooting Common Cover Stitch Issues
It is not uncommon to encounter some issues when doing a cover stitch. The most common problems include slipping stitches, skipped stitches, and uneven tension.
If you encounter these problems, take a few minutes to adjust the tension and examine the presser foot and needles. If they are the wrong size or worn out, they may be causing the issue. You can also check the stitch pattern, as this can have an effect on the finished look.
How to Finish the Seam
Once you are happy with the look of your coverstitch, it is important to ensure it lasts in the wash and retains its shape. To prevent fraying and ensure the seams stay closed, it is best to finish the seam by overcasting or overlocking it.
This will give the finished seam a more professional look and make it less prone to fraying. An overlocker is the best option for this, though you can also use a standard overcast stitch on a domestic machine.
Sewing the Seam Together
Once the seam is finished, it is time to sew the two sides of the fabric together. Begin by pinning the fabric and then lower the presser foot. Hold the fabric in place as you sew, guiding it with your hands to keep it straight and even.
Once the seam is completed, use the upper and lower loopers to secure and finish the cover stitch. This will ensure the seam will stay in place and form a neat and strong finish.
Caring for the Seam
The final step is to take care of the stitching to ensure it stays looking great over time. Always wash the garment according to the care instructions, as this will prevent damage to the stitching. In addition, iron the fabric on a low setting and use a pressing cloth to avoid stretching the seam or damage to the fabric.
These are just a few tips to help you do a coverstitch on sewing machine. As you practice, you will become more confident and find ways to create beautiful and unique pieces. With a little patience and perseverance, you’ll be able to master this skill and create stunning garments with cover stitches.
