How To Do Smocking On Sewing Machine

Threads Management

Using a sewing machine for smocking can be tricky as it requires managing both the top and bottom threads. It’s best to start by having both threads going through each other in order to create the tension and stitch control needed for smocking. Before sewing, be sure to thread the bobbin with quality thread that matches the fabric. This will ensure the correct smock stitch and a flawless result. Afterwards, check the tension on your machine by reducing the top tension if it is too loose.

Choosing the Right Stitch

The type of stitch and the number of threads used will vary depending on the fabric and pattern, so it’s important to select the right stitch. The most common stitches used for smocking are an overlock stitch, a four-thread overlock, a narrow legged four-thread overlock or a two-thread overlock. All of these stitches create a strong and secure seam, but the four-thread and two-thread overlock stitches are commonly used for smocking as they produce the most visible and decorative effects.

Using the Elastic Thread

When it comes to creating the smocking design, don’t forget to use an elastic thread when stitching. As the name suggests, this type of thread is made from elastic so it has a slight bit of stretch, which helps to add flexibility to the smocking design. Make sure to use quality threads for this purpose as cheap thread will not hold up as well as a higher quality thread.

Fabric Type and Selection

The type of fabric you use is also important to consider when it comes to smocking. If you plan on smocking a garment that will be worn tightly, it’s a good idea to use a smooth and strong fabric such as cotton or a stretchy jersey. On the other hand, if you plan on smocking decorative items such as blankets or a dress, opt for a thicker fabric such as velvet or minky.

Hooping the Fabric

In order to keep the fabric in place while smocking it’s important to hoop it. Hooping the fabric will help hold the design in place so the stitch lines are clean and neat. Make sure the hoop isn’t too tight as the fabric will stretch when the pressure is applied. If you don’t have a hoop, you can use a heavy-duty embroidery hoop to keep the fabric from shifting.

Embellishments and Smocking Plate

For a unique and creative smocking design, you can also add beads and buttons. Adding these embellishments to the smocking will add interest and texture to the design. Additionally, purchasing a smocking plate will give you the templates needed to create the perfect design. For example, the smocking plate will create the basic line stitches that are needed to create a decorative smocking design.

Working the Smocking

When working on smocking, it’s important to keep the fabric and threads taut in order to ensure the stitch design is even. If not, the fabric may bunch up or pucker in places. As such, it’s best to take it slow and focus on making each stitch as even as possible. Also, make sure to keep a ruler handy in order to make sure each stitch lines up before moving on to the next.

Sealing the Design

Once the smocking is done, the final step is to secure the design. The fabric will need to be securely secured at the top and bottom of the smocking pattern in order to keep the stitches neat and in place. This can be done by hand-sewing a button or using a heavy-duty fabric glue. By taking extra
care to secure the design it will help ensure the smocking design looks neat and professional.

Testing the Smock

After the smocking is finished, it’s a good idea to test it out to make sure the smocking pattern looks right and is secure. This can be done by stretching out the fabric and examining the design to make sure all of the stitches are even and secure. If any areas of the design appear too loose or too tight, go back and adjust the tension on your machine or knot the threads to make adjustments.

Hand Sealing the Edge

In some cases, hand-sewing the edge of the smocked fabric can be required in order to give the fabric a neat and finished look. This process involves stitching the edge of the fabric using small (invisible) stitches to secure the fabric. Hand-sewing gives the finish a professional look and helps to hold the design in place for more extended wear.

Pressing & Washing the Fabric

Before wearing or displaying the item, it’s important to press and wash the smocked fabric to remove any excess thread or fabric glue. Additionally, air drying is better than a regular machine cycle as it helps the fabric retain its shape and texture. Finally, use a iron on low heat to press the smocked fabric and let it cool completely before storing it.

Patterns and Smocking Techniques

When selecting a smocking design, there are many different options available. Depending on the fabric, the smocking pattern could take on the form of vertical or horizontal lines, floral bouquets, or shapes and motifs. Additionally, the pattern can be combined with decorative techniques such as pleating, cross-stitch, and eyelet embroidery to create a truly unique look.

Stabilizing the Fabric

It’s important to stabilize the fabric before working on the smocking as it helps to ensure the stitches lay even and flat. Additionally, if the fabric is not properly stabilized, the stitching may pull and pucker the fabric when it is being worked on. To avoid this, use lightweight fabrics such as cotton sheets or muslin, and use an interfacing fabric or a single layer of batting to reinforce the fabric.

Managing Fabric Layering

When working with layered fabrics, it is important to manage the layers to make sure each layer is visible for the stitches to go through. This can be done by pressing down on the layers and pulling the fabric taut before beginning to stitch. Doing this will ensure each layer is secure and won’t move when the needle is stitching through the fabric. Additionally, using a shorter length of thread will help keep the tension on the fabric layers from becoming too loose.

Marking Design Lines

In order to make sure the design for the smocking is correctly placed, use a disappearing ink pen to mark the design lines. This will help keep the design aligned to the fabric and keep the stitches even. Before continuing with the smocking, be sure to test the ink on a swatch of the fabric to make sure it won’t leave a stain or discoloration.

Geoffrey Kirby is an experienced author and sewist who has been creating sewn projects for over 20 years. He has a passion for teaching beginners and inspiring more advanced sewists both online and through his writings. Outside of writing about sewing, Geoffrey loves to explore new techniques and styles of sewing that incorporate upcycling fabric remnants into sweet items with personality.

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