Observing The Issue
When it comes to sewing garments, tension is essential for an even, neat stitch. If the tension is too tight or too loose, the stitch won’t come out as it should. It is quite common for sewers to experience tension-related issues on their sewing machines, and this can become very frustrating.
Tension issues arise when the top thread and bottom thread are coming together in an incorrect manner, where the top thread is either looping over, probably from the tension being too loose, or the bottom thread is showing on the top, likely from the tension being too tight.
It is important to learn about different sewing machines and become familiar with the some parts and functions, including the tension discs because this is one of the main culprits of a poorly tensioned stitch.
Taking Action
The first step in solving tension issues is to make sure the sewing machine is clean and properly oiled. It is essential that no lint or dust accumulates on any of the parts, and that all the moving parts are adequately oiled.
The next step is to check the threading of the sewing machine. Be sure to thread the machine according to the manual and make sure that needle is threaded in the right direction, is inserted all the way in the machine, and is of the right size and shape.
Once the threading is complete and the machine is rethreaded, the next step is to adjust the tension discs. Tension discs are tiny nuts that are found at the side of the sewing machine and can be used to manually adjust the tension.
A good starting point for the tension disc is to unscrew the nut a quarter of a turn for a looser top tension, or half a turn for a tighter top tension. Keep experimenting by making small adjustments and test sewing a section of fabric to see which tension works well.
Additional Tips
Pay attention to the type of thread being used. A thread that is too thin or too thick will require adjusting the tension of the sewing machine to accommodate the thread used.
The presser foot pressure also has to be adjusted according to the fabric. Too much pressure on the fabric can cause the stitches to be too tight, and too little pressure can leave the stitches too loose.
Finally, it is advisable to use a quality needle. A new, sharp needle is essential for even stitches, and regular replacement of the needle is recommended.
Analyzing Different Fabrics
Different fabrics require different tensions. Sewing with a single layer of light-weight fabric requires a slightly looser tension, whereas a bulky fabric such as denim stretches more and requires a slightly tighter tension.
Similarly, knitted fabrics are more stretchy and need to be handled with caution, so the tension should be adjusted accordingly.
To get the best results it may be useful to invest in the right tools. A seam ripper or a needle puller can be used to adjust the tension by loosening the top thread, while a seam gauge can help to achieve the right tension.
Cleaning
Cleaning the bobbin case and the tension disc assembly is essential to keep the machine running at its best. Unscrew the bobbin case, remove any lint or dust, and make sure to oil the mechanism every few months. Make sure to oil the disks and all of the other moving parts to keep the tension even.
It is also important to be aware that some fabrics need to be washed, dried and ironed before sewing them, as this will reduce the amount of shrinkage and tension required.
Finding Solutions To Common Issues
If the tension of the stitches is not coming out even, then it is likely that the bobbin tension is tight. To fix this, locate the small screws on the bobbin case, and use a screwdriver to loosen the screw.
Similarly, if the stitches appear to be looping on the underside of the fabric, or if there are little knots on the bottom of the fabric, then the top tension needs to be tightened. Use the tension discs to make the adjustment and test sew the fabric to check that the tension is even.
It is also important to check that the needle size is appropriate for the thread being used. A thicker thread or heavier fabric may require a larger needle to accommodate the thread and create even stitches.
Testing The Stitch
The final step is to test the tension by sewing a piece of scrap fabric. Place a few rows of stitches on the scrap fabric and examine the results. If the stitch sucks down into the fabric or the tension is not successful then it is possible to make further adjustments using the tension discs.
Make sure to check both sides of the fabric; the top and underside, to make sure that the stitch looks even and consistent. If the tension is not perfect, test sew the fabric again with a different tension.
Checking The Thread Tension
The tension of the thread is a vital part of the machine and must be adjusted in order to guarantee an even stitch. Check the tension of the thread when sewing multiple layers of fabric, as the combined thickness of the fabric may require a different tension than when sewing single layers.
When it comes to thread tension, it is always better to err on the side of caution and start with a slightly looser than ideal tension, rather than being too tight.
When changing thread weight or when changing fabric, always recheck the thread tension. This can easily be done by having the needle engage the thread and observing if the needle is catching or looping the threads.
Additional Tools
Additional tools can be used to ensure the correct tension, such as a tension gauge or thread tension meter. These tools are quite inexpensive and are easy to use to quickly check the tension of the thread without having to test sew fabric.
Furthermore, a thread stand can be used to take the strain off the thread when sewing heavy fabrics. Thread stands allow for the thread to pass through without the fabric being put too much tension.
Adopting Best Practices
When it comes to fixing tension issues, there are a few best practices to adopt. Firstly, always read the manual before attempting to make any adjustments to the sewing machine. Secondly, test sew a scrap of fabric to check the stitch and tension before sewing onto the actual garment.
Lastly, always be prepared to make adjustments and to experiment with the tension discs until the right tension is achieved. The process may take some time and patience, but in the end the finished result will be worth it.
