Hemming mens pants with a sewing machine is a valuable skill for any clothes tailor or seamstress. It is a time consuming, meticulous process that requires patience and a stead hand. It can also be confusing for someone just starting out, as there are many steps involved. Step one, however, is to decide what kind of fabric the pants are made from. Different fabrics have different weaving patterns and textures, some of which might be more difficult for a beginner to work with.
Selecting the appropriate thread is key to achieving a high-quality result. You need to pay close attention to the color, weight, and sheen. Cotton thread is usually the most suitable as it is strong and won’t stretch with wear. You also want to make sure that the tension is set correctly. If set too tight, the thread won’t slide through the fabric, and if set too loose, the stitches won’t remain in place.
Depending on the desired finished look of the pants, the hem can be executed in two different ways. A clean finish hem is the more professional and tailored version. This method involves folding over the hem edge, stitching along the inside of the fold and pressing it flat. The other way is to turn up a single-fold hem, which is the quickest and most basic method used.
For a single-fold hem, start by turning up the hem so that it is the desired length. Then, press the hem on the wrong side with a hot iron and use pins to secure it. Once the hem is ready, thread the machine with the cotton thread and set the stitching to a tight and straight stitch. Test it out on a piece of scrap fabric to make sure the tension is correct.
Next, begin sewing slowly and keep the folded edge tight against the feed dog as you go. Make sure to remove the pins as you go to avoid breaking your needle. When you finish, trim the excess fabric and thread, and press the hem again to ensure a crisp and clean finish.
Professional tailors and seamstresses use a few handy tricks to ensure their hems are precise and polished. One strategy is to add a tiny strip of interfacing to the starting edge of the hem and stitching through it. This adds support and stability to the hem and prevents it from becoming misshapen during cleaning and wear.Another tip is to leave a tail of thread at the start and end of your stitches; this helps keep the stitches in place, and prevent the hem from coming undone.
Hemming mens pants with a sewing machine, while time consuming and precise, is a great skill that allows you to create precise, tailored looks for garments. With the right fabric, thread and practices, you can achieve the looks you are aiming for and make your work stand out.
Knowing the Fabric
Selecting the fabric for a mens pant hemming job is essential. Different fabrics have different weaving patterns and textures which might be more difficult for a beginner to work with. The key factor is to select the appropriate weight and type of fabric. For instance, linen and lightweight wool pants need to be hemmed with lightweight interfacing to prevent them from becoming weighed down and losing their shape.
Likewise, heavier tweed and dress pants should be hemmed with a more rigid interfacing, otherwise they won’t sit properly. Selecting a fabric with the right content is also essential; certain fabrics such as polyester or poly-blend require their own special care and treatment while hemming.
When selecting the fabric, consider whether the garment is intended for casual or formal wear, or if it will be worn frequently. Each of these criteria will change the way the final garment should look, and can even affect the stitching and finishing of the hem.
Stitching Tips
When stitching the hem, accuracy is key. A few handy tricks and tips can help you achieve a professional-looking result. Professional tailors usually mark the hemline with an erasable marker or tailor’s chalk, as this allows you to be sure that the hem is even and symmetrical.
Before stitching, run a few trial stitches on a scrap fabric of the same material to get a feel for the fabric and practice adjusting the machine. This is useful if you need to work with a fabric that’s too stiff or loose for the hem. If the fabric is too stiff, loosen the tension on the machine, and if it’s too loose, tighten the tension.
When it comes to stitching, it’s important to maintain a steady pace, making sure that the folded edge is tight against the feed dog. Setting the machine to a tight and straight stitch is usually best for the single-fold hem. And when stitching around corners, it is helpful to keep the hem taut while turning it; this allows you to maintain a crisp, neat finish.
Finishing Tips
When finishing off the hem, it’s important to ensure a crisp and clean finish. A few professional tips can help you achieve this. Start by trimming the excess fabric and thread, and then press the hem again on the wrong side with a hot iron. This step helps flatten out any creases and gives the pant a tailored finish.
To make the hem look even more polished, many tailors add a tiny strip of interfacing to the starting edge of the hem and stitch through it. This adds support and stability and prevents the garment from losing its shape during subsequent wear and cleaning. A further tip is to leave a tail of thread at the start and end of your stitches; this helps keep the stitches secure and prevent the hem from coming undone.
Maintenance Tips
To keep a pant hem looking pristine, proper care and attention should be taken. To prevent it from getting misshapen, hang the pants by their waistband and avoid folding them. Also, when cleaning the pants, take out the trims and use a cool and gentle wash cycle. If the pants need to be ironed, be sure to press on the wrong side to not damage the hem.
Furthermore, it is important to re-stitch the hem periodically as needed. The thread and stitches can become loose over time, and the hem can start to unravel. If this happens, re-stitch over the existing thread to repair the hem. If the fabric has shifted too much, it is better to start from scratch and re-do the hem to maintain its quality and look.
Hemming Styles
Hemming pants can be done in different ways, depending on the desired finished look.The simplest and quickest method is the single-fold hem, which involves stitching along a single fold. This is a great method for casual pants made from lightweight materials such as linen or cotton twill.
For a more tailored and professional look, a clean finishing hem is the best option. This is a more intricate process and involves folding over the edge of the hem and stitching along the inside of the fold and pressing it flat. This method usually works best for heavier fabrics and creates sharp, neat edges that any tailor would be proud of.
Using Pins
Using pins is an essential step when hemming pants. For a clean and even finish, use pins to ensure the hem is evenly spaced. Place the pins at the corner of each side seam and they throughout the hem, so they securely hold the fabric in place.
Be sure to use a matching color pin to not leave any visible indicator on the fabric.When you start stitching, it is important to remove the pins as you go. This will prevent them from getting tangled in the thread and breaking the needle.
Using an iron
Using an iron is another important step when hemming mens pants, as it helps set the folds and achieve a neat finish. If a proper iron is not available, you can also use a press cloth. Place this cloth between the garment and the iron to keep the fabric from discoloring.
If you are nursing a delicate fabric, the iron should be set to a lowest heat setting. If your iron has a steamer setting, you can use it to set the folds. Start by pressing the fabric on the wrong side, and then press the side made with the pins. This ensures that the pins are completely removed.
