Seaming Basics
Sewing is a task requiring patience and skill. Hemming, in particular, requires accuracy and attention to detail. Many beginners are intimidated by the thought of hemming on a sewing machine, particularly given the challenging techniques and special features typically required. Hemming is a simple process once you master the basics, as with any new skill. With correct tools and techniques, you’ll be hemming like a pro in no time!
Material – A wide variety of fabrics can be hemmed on a sewing machine. The most common material used includes cotton and polyester blends, wool, silk, and some stretchy fabrics. The weight of the fabric will depend on the stitch type and presser foot used. It’s advisable to run a test seam on a scrap of fabric before starting your project.
Tools – Various tools are needed to hem on a sewing machine. You’ll need a tape measure and fabric scissors, a seam guide, and a seam ripper. You’ll also need an iron to press your hems and fabric markers to mark the hemline. You can use a range of special hemming presser feet to help you achieve perfect results, such as a blind hemming foot, edge stitch foot, or a rolled hem foot.
Method – Start by marking the hemline with a fabric marker. This can be done with a straightedge and ruler, or by hand. Next, fold the fabric along the marked line, using the iron to press a crisp crease. Try to ensure the hem is evenly folded and pinned to secure the fold. To sew the hem, use the seam guide to help you maintain an accurate seam. As you guide the fabric under the presser foot, make sure to keep the hem folded under the foot. If your machine has a blind hem stitch, you can use this to conceal the stitches from view. Once the hem is in place, remove the pins and press it in place.
Planning & Preparation
Before beginning a hemming project, it’s important to plan and prepare. It’s important to consider the weight of the fabric and the style of stitch necessary for the project. For example, lighter weight fabrics can be hemmed with a standard straight stitch, whereas heavier fabrics need a reinforced stitch. Additionally, if the project features intricate detailing such as top-stitching or a crisp finish, it may require a more specialized technique. Lastly, it’s important to allow yourself enough time to complete the task, as hemming can be time consuming.
Measurements – Start by taking accurate measurements of the hemline. For perfect results, use a flexible measuring tape and stand the garment up. Take into account the seam allowances when making measurements, as you don’t want the final length altered. You should also use a fabric marker to roughly mark the hemline or length desired.
Presser Feet – Hemming projects often require a specialized presser foot. If you’re hemming denim or another heavy fabric, for example, then a steel Teflon foot is ideal. If you’re hemming a lightweight fabric such as cotton or linen, a regular presser foot should suffice. However, some fabrics, such as silk and satin, require a more specialised foot. In this case, use an edge-stitching foot which will help you achieve an even, crisp hem.
Hemming Techniques
Hemming requires a degree of technical skill. Some hemming techniques are easier to master than others, but with a little practice, you’ll get the hang of it. Here are a few tips to help perfect your technique.
Pin & Sew Slowly – Start by pinning the hemline, then sew slowly to ensure accuracy. Don’t rush the process and be sure to check that the presser foot and bobbin are threaded correctly. When sewing a hem, the right side of the fabric should be facing up.
Presser Foot Pressure – Different presser feet apply different levels of pressure to the fabric. Try to determine the correct pressure for the presser foot you are using. Generally, heavier fabrics such as denim and wool require more pressure than lighter fabrics such as cotton and linen.
Seam Guides – Seam guides can help with accuracy, as they can be used to maintain an even stitch length. For straight hems, use a seam guide on either side of the fabric to help prevent the fabric from bunching. This is especially useful if the hem is being sewn on the bias.
Finishing the Hem
Once the hem is complete, there are a few steps left to complete the project.
Press the Hem – Press the hem with an iron on the wrong side of the fabric. If the hem is very wide, you can use steam to help flatten it. Avoid pressing too close to the stitches or the stitches may be damaged.
Stitch in the Ditch – To ensure the hem stays in place, you can use a technique known as “stitching in the ditch”. This is done by stitching through the fold of the hem from the right side of the fabric. This secures the hem in place and provides a neat, professional finish.
Locking Stitches – Finally, backstitch at the start and end of the seam to “lock” the stitches in place. This helps to prevent the seam from coming undone.
Adding Decorative Heading
Adding a decorative heading to a project can create a unique and eye-catching feature. There are many techniques you can use to achieve different effects.
Topstitching – Topstitching is a popular technique used to add decorative detail to garments. This involves stitching along the edge of the hem to give it a neat, polished finish. You can use a variety of different coloured threads or create interesting patterns using satin or decorative threads.
Decorative Edgestitching – Edgestitching is a great way to highlight the edge of the hem. This can be achieved by stitching along the fold of the hem with contrasting threads, or even by double stitching the same colour thread on either side of the fold.
Corded Hems – For extra detail you can add a corded hem. This involves stitching a length of cord or piping between two layers of the fabric, just above the hemline. You can use a regular presser foot or a corded foot to sew along the edge of the hem.
Hemming Troubleshooting
If you’re have difficulty with your hems, there are a few steps you can take to troubleshoot the problem.
Threading – Make sure that the thread and bobbin are properly threaded. Check the tension of the bobbin thread and the upper thread. If the tension is too tight, the fabric won’t move through the machine easily and the stitches may be uneven.
Presser Foot – Ensure the correct presser foot is used for the fabric and stitch type. If the presser foot is not suitable, the stitches will not be even and the hem may not sit flush.
Problems Feeding Fabric – If the fabric won’t move through the machine, check for any lint or dust buildup on the feed dogs. If this is blocking the fabric, use a brush to remove it. If the fabric is still not feeding, loosen the tension of the top thread slightly.
Adequate Lighting
Having adequate lighting while hemming is key to maintaining accuracy. Poor lighting can lead to inaccurate results, as it can be difficult to see the fabric while sewing. For a task as delicate as hemming, it’s important to have a well-lit workspace. If possible, position the sewing machine directly under a lamp, or add a task light if necessary.
Natural Light – Natural light is often the best, as it is softer and less likely to cause headaches. If possible, position your sewing machine near a window or use a skylight if available. This way, you’ll be able to see what you’re working on more clearly.
LED Lights – LED lights are also a good option for providing bright, clear light to the workspace. Choose a light with an adjustable intensity setting, so that you can adjust the brightness according to your needs. Alternatively, a dimmable LED light could be ideal for working on night hemming projects.
Desk Lamps – If your workspace is small, a desk lamp is a great solution. Desk lamps are lightweight and easy to move around, so you can position them directly over the sewing area. It’s important to purchase a lamp with an adjustable arm to ensure you have adequate coverage.
Practice & Patience
Like any craft, hemming requires patience and practice. Don’t get discouraged if a project starts off difficult. Keep practicing and make sure to use the right tools and techniques, and you’ll soon be mastering the art of hemming. Remember, take it slow and enjoy the learning process!
