Force and Measurement
Pants hemming on a sewing machine is not as difficult as it may seem. Even a novice with minimal sewing skills and knowledge can learn the process. It could take a few practice attempts, but the results can be perfectly hemmed pants. The sewing machine can make all the difference to get the perfect fit and hemline. Before starting, it is important to measure and determine the finished length of the pants. The fabric also needs to be pre-washed, ironed and pinned, before stitching.
Choose A Suitable Stitch
Choosing the right stitching type is key to create a perfect hem. A straight stitch, zigzag stitch tapestry stitch or a buttonhole stitch, can all be used to hem pants. Depending on the type of fabric and weight, different stitches may serve better. On lightweight fabrics, a straight stitch or a zigzag stitch are recommended, while on heavier fabrics, a buttonhole stitch or a tapestry stitch would be best. It is also important to adjust the stitch length according to the fabrics, for a neat finish.
Creating Even Edges
When hemming, it is essential to create even edges. A straight line can be achieved by using a ruler, tailor’s chalk or even masking tape. Sewing with a zigzag also helps to avoid fraying of fabric, as the fabric edge is tucked inside. To make pressing easier after hemming, stitching a thick bar of fabric and tucking it behind the seam, can be helpful. Once the edges are even, the pants can be pinned in a position, ensuring the right and even length.
Stitch And Press
After pinning, the machine is ready to stitch. To guarantee a secure and even hem, doubling-stitching is recommended to reinforce the edge. To secure the hem and keep it in position, use a craft glue or pins, as the sewing progresses. It is also important to sew slowly and adjust the fabric, to ensure a good finish. After stitching, it is important to press the hemline. Iron the finished edges, toward the wrong side to set the stitching.
Fabric Weight
When hemming pants on a sewing machine, the type of fabric used is very important. Heavier fabrics like denim need to use zigzag stitch, while lightweight fabrics, such as cotton and muslin, are well suited for a straight stitch. To ensure a neat hem finish, it is important to adjust the stitch length, depending on the fabric weight. Also, using a heavier needle designed for a more sturdy fabric, can facilitate better stitching.
Adjustments And Alterations
Adjusting and alterations are also an important part of hemming pants. With thick fabric, small alterations may be required to create the perfect fit. To adjust the size and shape, it is important to make a small cut, allowing for extra fabric to be removed during the process. With loose-fitting pants, tightening them at the waist or thighs may also be required. This can be done with a fabric tape and fitting darts to create the desired shape.
Hemming Techniques
There are various hemming techniques that can be applied on a sewing machine, depending on the fabric. Different technique can also be used for a tailored finish and fashionable looks. Hemming with grosgrain ribbon can provide for a decorative finish and will keep the hem secured for long. Folding and stitching the hems with a heavier thread, can provide a secure and tapered look. This technique is particularly recommended for binding and reinforcing seams, to ensure a professional finish.
Precautions And Safety
Be sure to keep the presser foot secure and the machine in automatic mode while hemming. Also, use seam rippers, small scissors and other sewing tools, safely. It is also important to always read the machine manual before using any attachments. Moreover, large items of clothing should not be sewn with a standard domestic machine, as it could cause the machine to jam up. Good lighting, ergonomic tools and pins, with the right type of fabrics, will help to achieve a good stitching, even for a novice.
Finishing Touches
Finishing touches are also important when hemming pants. After stitching the hemline, press the seam and iron the fabric, to get the desired finish. Apply a good press cloth with a hot iron, for best results. To remove any bobbin thread left on the reverse side, lightly steam iron the hemline. Moreover, brush the seam with a wire brush to remove any loose thread. Always check the finished hem, to ensure it is not too tight or loose.
Applying Patches And Appliques
Patches, patches, appliques and other embellishments can also be used to create a more decorative hem finish. Patches come in various shapes and sizes and can be easily stuck on with fabric glue. Another option is to applique the patches using embroidery stitches, to ensure they stay in place. Additionally, zippers, laces and other trimmings can also be used to accentuate the hemline of the pants.
Hemming A Lined Or Padded Pant
Hemming a lined or padded pant, can be slightly trickier than a basic hem. However, the same needle type and stitching type can be applied for a neat finish. When hemming lined or padded material, a simple stitching technique is recommended to avoid snagging. Sew the inner seam, followed by the thicker outer layer, to ensure a neat and secure hemline. A zigzag stitch will provide more security, while the presser foot should be kept level and the stitches even.
Checking Mechanical Settings
A few mechanical adjustments may be necessary, to ensure smooth operation of the sewing machine. Check the stitch length, which should be slightly longer with heavier fabrics, and the tension settings should always match the fabric weight. A good rule of thumb is, if the stitching looks loose on the hemline, reduce the tension, and if it has excessive looping increase the tension. Finally, always test the setting on a scrap fabric before proceeding with the hem.
