Section 1: Preparing the Material
Hemming stretchy fabric requires a special approach. For best results, choose the right thread and needles, as well as a stable, sturdy fabric. Make sure to pre-wash your fabric and give it a good ironing before you start. If you’re hemming a garment on the sewing machine, try it on and mark where the hem should be. Though these extra steps might seem like a hassle, they will help you obtain the best results.
Section 2: Sewing a Hem on Stretchy Fabric
Once your fabric is prepped, it’s time to learn the techniques for sewing a hem on a stretchy fabric. Start by stabilizing the hem with a double sided iron-on interfacing. This is especially important for fabrics like spandex, jersey and knits—it will help keep the stitches from stretching. Then, use your sewing machine to make a line of small stitches – about 1/2” apart – along the edge of your fabric. This will provide much-needed integrity to the hem and will make the fabric more amenable to working with.
Section 3: Finishing the Hem
Carefully trim the excess fabric of the hem to make it cleaner, and then finish the stitching. Sew a piece of twill tape along the edge of the hem, using a zigzag or triple stitch. Again, keep the stitches small and close together so that the fabric can stretch, but the stitches will remain secure. Now you can press the hem in place and give it a good ironing. Finally, hem the bottom of the garment by sewing the edge of the twill tape with a straight stitch.
Section 4: Techniques for Fabrics Other than Knits
If you’re hemming a woven fabric, like denim or cotton, the process is slightly different. Start by folding and pressing the bottom of the fabric to create a half inch hem. Then, use your heated iron to press a double sided hem tape along the edge of the fabric. Lastly, use a light weight stitch and straighten stitch along the edge of the hem to give the fabric a clean, finished look.
Section 5: Other Techniques
Not all hems have to be sewn on a sewing machine. A blind hem is a great alternative for fabrics with a bit of stretch. With a blind hem, start by folding the edge of the fabric and pressing it into place. Take the fold you’ve created and stitch it with a curved needle, leaving just a few millimeters of fabric open at the seam. This technique is especially useful for lightweight, pliable fabrics.
Section 6: Machine Settings for a Perfect Hem
Adjusting the settings on your sewing machine can make all the difference when you’re hemming stretchy fabrics. For most fabrics, opt for a straight stitch with a slightly longer stitch length. Additionally, it’s best to leave the bottom thread of the hem slightly loose. This will keep it from bunching when you’re stretching the fabric. Finally, try using a presser foot with a beveled edge to keep the fabric moving smoothly as you sew.
Section 7: Reinforcing the Hem
Depending on the fabric, you may want to reinforce the hem. Puffy fabrics, like shirts, can often benefit from a stiff, reinforced hem. When hemming puffier items, use a narrow line of stitches along the bottom edge of the fabric and then a larger line at the top. This will give your hem more keep it from stretching.
Section 8: Safety Tips for Sewing Stretchy Fabric
When working with stretchy fabric, it’s important to be extra careful. Make sure the needle is securely attached to the machine and the presser foot is securely in place. Keep your hands and arms away from the needle and take your time. Ensure the needle is the appropriate size for your fabric, as a larger needle might be too sharp and could cause tears.
Section 9: Testing the Hem
The final step in hemming stretchy fabric is to test it out. Put the garment on and make sure it hangs as you would like. If the hem is a bit too long, don’t be afraid to trim a few millimeters—just remember to leave enough fabric for the stitches to keep their grip. Finally, if you’re satisfied with your hem, give it one last, careful ironing and you’re good to go!
Section 10: Involving Others in the Process
When hemming stretchy fabric, it’s often helpful to involve others in the process. Consult with a seamstress or tailor who has experience with this type of fabric. They might be able to provide valuable tips and advice to help your hem look just right. Also, share your sewing projects with others who might be able to provide suggestions or lend a hand. With the right assistance, you can achieve the perfect hem.
