Steps for Hemming Without a Sewing Machine
Hemming is, for many, one of those sewing skills that can intimidate and seem too complicated to pull off when done without a sewing machine. But fear not, hemming by hand is more than doable and will produce a look near impossible to differentiate between a machine stitch. The key is paying attention to the detail, having patience and a few key techniques. In this article, we’ll take a look at the techniques and skills needed to hem without a machine via some helpful steps.
Step 1: Measure and Mark
It may seem simple, but measuring and marking are essential for successful hand-hemming and require close attention to detail. Grab a flexible measuring tape and measure the hem of the fabric and make double sure the measurement is accurate by using pins to hold the fabric in place. Use tailor’s chalk, a hem marker pen or even fabric pencil to transfer the measurement onto the fabric evenly. Use a ruler, if needed, to help the line be straight.
Step 2: Cut Excess Fabric
Once the hem of the fabric has been marked, it’s time to cut off the excess fabric. Take your sharp fabric scissors and, using the marked line as a guide, gently cut off the excess fabric. Make sure to move the scissors at an angle and go slow so as not to make any visible mistakes. The line should still be visible with the excess fabric now removed.
Step 3: Press the Raw Edge
With the extra fabric cut off, it’s time to press the raw edge. Do this by running the raw edge along an iron’s edge and as close as possible in order to make sure the fabric becomes crisp and flat. This will make the hand sewing much easier and make for a much better-looking finished product.
Step 4: Start the Hem
When ready, take a strand of thread that’s a few inches longer than the hem and loop it around the bed of the needle a few times. Knot the end of the thread and make sure it’s tight by gently tugging on it. It is best to use a thread that is one or two shades darker than the fabric color. Make sure to also use a needle that is sharp and sturdy.
Step 5: Sew the Hem in Place
And now the actual hand-hemming begins. With your needle threaded, starting from one corner of the hem, begin to slowly insert the tip of the needle into the fabric, making sure the knot is kept inside. Move the needle upwards at an angle and slowly pull the thread so the knot does not come undone. Be sure to keep the stitch size consistent, making sure not to go too large nor too small. Then, move the needle downwards and start the same process from the other side. Continue in this manner, making sure to knot the thread at least every 2 inches for extra stability.
Step 6: Neaten the Hem
Folding the fabric at the raised line of the hem and using your thumbs to keep it in place, surround the fabric with small running stitches while inserting the needle in the same manner as before. Keep the stitches tight and close together, but not too much, as to not make the hem bulky. This part requires a steady hand, so take your time to get it right. After the hem is complete, knot a few times.
Step 7: Final Touches
After securing the thread in place with knots and snipping off any excess, iron your newly hemmed item for a neat and professional finish. Voila! You’ve completed the hand hemming process.
Never Underestimate the Power of Hem Tape
Although this technique does require some time and effort, there is one other trick to making sure the fabric edges are neat and professional—hem tape. Used to temporarily secure the edges of the fabric and make sure that it is in place before properly hemming. It is a sticky, temporary fix that’s great for beginners who want to make sure they get the perfect hem while they get the hang of the technique. Some brands even come with sewing guides that show exactly where to place your stitches.
When to Use Hemming
Hemming is great for clothing items as well as other fabric-based accessories. Skirts, pants, jackets and buttons, to name a few items, benefit from hemming as it helps create a professional and polished look. Different methods of hemming can also be used. The blind hem, for instance, is often used in garments and home decor when a neat, tidy and non-visible hem is desired.
Factors to Consider Before Hemming
Before deciding to hand-hem any fabric item, it’s important to bear in mind a few factors. Is the fabric too thick or too thin? Is it slippery? Does it stretch when pulled? Knowing the answers to these questions will help determine the best technique and make the hand-hemming process easier. It’s also important to double-check your measurements and make sure they are correct, as well as use the right thread and needle for the job.
Tools You Will Need
In order to hem without a sewing machine, you will need some basics, like a needle with a sharp point and sturdy eye, scissors for cutting fabric, a flexible measure, chalk for transferring the measurement and some thread of a suitable colour. You can use standard thread for regular fabrics, whereas for finer fabrics like silk, a thicker thread like perlé cotton should be used. You will also need something flat and hard, like an iron-covered board, to press the fabric on.
Benefits of Hemming by Hand
Aside from making them look professional and well made, hand-hemming has some added benefits. Firstly, it’s a great way to practice craftsmanship and get better with the more you practice. Secondly, it’s a fun and therapeutic activity to do while unwinding and getting creative. And, of course, the sense of accomplishment that comes with making your own clothes or accessories is quite indescribable.
Conclusion
Making those perfect hems with no sewing machine in sight is definitely doable with practice, patience and the right supplies. The tips in this article will help you get on the right track whether you’re a beginner or a professional, so that you can get that perfect hem and boost your skillset at the same time.
