Basic Sewing Machine Gathers
The simplest type of gathers are created on a regular sewing machine with a gathering foot or ruffle foot. Before sewing, the fabric must be prepared by either measuring off the length of the gather stitching, or by marking this length along the fabric with a marking pen or chalk.
To create the gathers, sew a straight seam along the length of the fabric a ½ inch away from the marked line. The stitch length should be adjusted so that it is a very long basting stitch. Make sure to leave extra thread tails at the beginning and end of the gathering seam.
Pull on the top thread located at the end of the fabric; this will cause the fabric to pleat. Continue to gather the fabric until it matches up with the marked line. Pin in place every few inches.
Now, with the gathering foot on the sewing machine, select a stitch length about twice that of the gathering stitch. Sew over the top of the gathering stitching and will secure the Fabric in place. Be sure to backstitch at the beginning and end. Remove the pins and separate the threads ends.
Layered Gathers
Layered gathers are a more decorative and intricate type of gathers used for garments such as dresses and blouses. Layered gathers give dressmakers a chance to create an elegant look.
To begin, the fabric is prepared in the same way as for sewing basic gathers. Measure off the length of the gather, mark off this length with a marking pen or chalk.
Sew the first gathering stitch using a stitch length that is double that of the gathering seam. Pull on the top thread located at the end of the fabric until the fabric begins to pleat, then secure the gathering stitch.
Then sew a second row of gathering stitches next to the first, again referring to the marked line. Again adjust the stitch length to double that of the gathering stitch, sew over the top of the gathering stitches to secure the fabric in place. Back stitch at the beginning and end.
To create the layered look, turn the fabric to the wrong side and use small scissors to snip away the excess fabric in-between the two gathering stitches. Make sure not to cut through the stitches when doing this.
Changes in Width
Gathering stitches can be used to create a shirred fabric or make a piece of fabric longer than the original. Gathers can also be used to reduce the width of a piece of fabric. This is done by increasing the gathering stitch length on the piece of fabric.
To make a fabric narrower, begin with the marking off the fabric like before. Sew the gathering stitches, concentrating on keeping them straight, and use a stitch length that is double that of the gathering stitch. Pull the top thread and bring the fabric to the desired width. Back stitch at the beginning and end.
Happy gathering and sewing!
Using Gathering for Hem Finishes
Gathering may also be used to create unique and decorative hems. One way to create a hem finish with gathers is to sew gathering stitches along the edge of the fabric. Leave some extra thread tails at the beginning and end of the gathering and pull on the top thread until the fabric gathers up to fit the hem. Secure the gathers with a line of normal stitches or a decorative stitch.
Additional rows of gathering stitches can be added, if desired, to increase the fullness of the hem and provide a more finished look. Keep in mind that the extra rows of gathering will add width, so some hemming may be necessary.
Adding Charm to Quilts
Gathering is a great way to add some charm to quilts. Gathering can be used to give quilts volume and motion, as well as draw attention to the fabrics used.
Use a large stitch and create gathering stitches, evenly spaced around the piece of fabric; leaving extra thread tails at the beginning and end. Pull the top thread to gather up the fabric and pin it in place.
Then use a backing fabric, such as a quilt batting or a muslin, to secure the fabric and provide stability. Place this backing fabric on the wrong side of the gathered fabric and stitch around the gathered section to secure the gather and backing.
Creating a Variety of Look with Gathers
Gathers can be used to create a variety of looks, from classic pleating to ruffles. In order to create the desired look, the fabric will need to be prepared differently.
Pleating results in a flat and classic look, while ruffles give the fabric a more flouncy, feminine feel. To create pleats, mark off the desired length and gather up the fabric as normal, but leave some space between the pleats. Secure the pleats with a line of stitching.
To make ruffles, mark off a larger length, then sew gathering stitches and gather up the fabric as normal. When gathering ruffles, the fabric will gather up much more than with regular pleating. Secure the gathers with a line of stitching and add more ruffles to create the desired effect.
Tips for Sewing Gathers with Accuracy
Creating gathers can be tricky, but there are some tips and techniques to use in order to get better results.
When sewing the gathering stitches, use a medium to long stitch length. This will ensure that the stitches can be pulled easily and that the fabric will not become too dense. Make sure to use extra long thread tails at the beginning and end of the gathering stitch; these will be necessary when gathering the fabric.
When gathering the fabric, do not pull too tight; this will cause the fabric to become distorted. Also, when gathering make sure to move the fabric slowly and evenly so that the pleats are even.
Alternate Sources of Gathers
Gathers can also be created without a sewing machine in two different ways. The first is by hand-pleating; this is done by pressing the fabric into folds and securing them with pins or basting.
The second method is by using a drawstring; this is done by sewing a casing into the fabric and then threading a drawstring through it. Once the drawstring is in place, it can be tightened or loosened to create the desired gathers.
Creating Texture with Gathers
Gathers can also be used to create texture in fabrics. For example, by sewing two lengths of gathering stitches on the fabric, one slightly deeper than the other, it will create a textured fabric that can be used to create a more interesting look.
This technique can also be used to add embellishments to garments, such as ribbons or beads. The technique involves sewing the embellishments onto the fabric, then creating the gathers; this will cause the embellishments to form an interesting pattern on the fabric.
Creating Dimension with Gathers
Using gathers can also be used to create dimension with fabric. This is done by creating three or more layers of fabric and sewing them together with gathering stitches.
Once the layers are gathered, they can be combined in a variety of ways, such as by pleating or ruching or by making a circular shape. By combining the layers in this way, it will create a unique look that has a different feel than just sewing two pieces of fabric together.
When creating the gathering stitches, use a longer stitch length and make sure to leave extra thread tails at the beginning and end of each gathering section. This will make it easier to gather each layer separately and combine them together.
