What Do The Numbers On Sewing Machine Needles Mean

Numbering system of sewing machine needles

Sewing machine needles are categorized with a certain numbering system for a variety of reasons. While there are some different types of needles available, such as universal and jeans, most belong to system categories 0-16. The numbers refer to a variety of features like size, shape and type.

What exactly do the numbers mean?

The needles within the 0-16 system range in size from the finest 80/12 to the heaviest 16. The majority of the needles are in sizes between 80/12 (the smallest) and 90/14 (the most common size). The lower the number, the finer and shorter the needle.
The number before the slash on the needle relates to the diameter of the needle. The number after the slash indicates the length of the needle. A longer needle is designed to last longer, but may cause buckling when used in areas with several layers of fabric.
The “type” of the needle also plays a role in needle selection. It’s typically described with a letter (HAx1, DYS, etc.) after the number. This letter describes the type of point and shank of a needle. Different types of needles are available for different functions and fabrics.

Choosing the right needle

In order to choose the right needle, you must pay attention to the type of fabric you’re working with. Needles are labelled with fabric categories such as jersey, denim, or leather. Choosing the correct needle is essential in getting the best sewing results.
Denim needles are designed to penetrate densely woven fabrics like canvas or denim, while leather needles are designed for thicker leathers or faux leathers. Jersey needles are usually lighter and work better with jersey fabrics and lighter knit fabrics.
Remember that regardless of what kind of fabric you are sewing with, make sure to change your needle often for the best results. Needles become dull over time and can damage your fabric if used for too long.

The importance of thread weight

The weight of the thread is also important when selecting a needle for your sewing machine. Fine threads require finer needles, such as a 60/8, while heavier threads will require a thicker needle, such as a 100/16.
Using a needle that is too thin for the thread can cause problems, such as skipped stitches and shredded thread. If the needle is too thick, it can cause the fabric to pucker or puncture. This is something that should be avoided.

Conclusion

There are a few factors to consider when selecting the right needle for your sewing machine. The needle size and type should be chosen based on the fabric and thread you’re working with. Also, keep in mind that needles should be changed often as they become dull over time and can damage your fabric.

Other Factors to Consider

Types of Threads

Aside from the weight of the thread, the type of thread is also important when selecting a needle for your sewing machine. Different types of threads require different needle sizes and types.
If you are using polyester thread, for example, a sharper needle is required than if you are using cotton thread. Similarly, if you are using a woollen blend, a needle with a larger eye is needed. The size of the needle should reflect the size of the thread.

Quality of Needles

It is important to select high-quality, sharp needles. Low-quality needles can cause skipped stitches, shredded thread, and can damage the fabric. It is best to use only high-quality needles.

Thread Tension Settings

The tension settings on your machine play an important role in the stitch quality. If your thread tension is too high or too low, the fabric may pucker or the stitches may become loose. Thread tension settings should be checked often, especially when switching fabrics or needles.

Bobbin Thread Tension

The tension of the bobbin thread is also important in the stitch quality. If the bobbin tension is too loose, the stitches can become loose and irregular in size. Adjusting the bobbin tension is relatively simple and does not require a lot of time.

Thread Path

The thread path is the way the thread is fed through the sewing machine as it stitches. Different machines have different thread paths and it is important to familiarize yourself with the thread path of your machine. This ensures that the thread is fed through the machine in the most efficient and effective way.

Geoffrey Kirby is an experienced author and sewist who has been creating sewn projects for over 20 years. He has a passion for teaching beginners and inspiring more advanced sewists both online and through his writings. Outside of writing about sewing, Geoffrey loves to explore new techniques and styles of sewing that incorporate upcycling fabric remnants into sweet items with personality.

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