The Needles
Sewing machine needles are one of the most important parts of a sewing machine, as without them it is impossible to achieve neat and accurate stitches. They come in many shapes, sizes, and types and it is important to know which one works best for the type of project that is being undertaken. There are universal needles, but are all needles truly universal?
A universal needle is one that can be used on multiple fabrics and sewing machine makes and models. It is a general-purpose needle, which is suitable for stitching medium-weight woven fabrics such as cotton, linen, or wool. The distinguishing feature of a universal needle is the tapered scarf (a slight bend in the shank which allows the thread loop formation to be created). They come in two varieties – light weight universal needles (66/9) and medium weight universal needles (80/12). Lightweight needles are great for very light fabrics whereas medium weight needles are most suitable for medium to heavier fabrics such as denim.
The needle is one of the few parts of a sewing machine that must be changed frequently. Different fabrics require different needles, as do different weights and types of thread. Using the wrong needle can lead to buckling of the fabric, skipped stitches, and even broken needles. This is why it is important to have an understanding of the types of needles available and the fabrics and materials to which they are most suited.
Types of Needles
While universal needles are the most commonly used, they are not the only type of needle available. Other types of needles include stretch needles, ballpoint needles, quilting needles, embroidery needles, topstitching needles, denim needles, and more. Each type of needle is designed specifically for a certain fabric and/or purpose, and it is important to use the right needle to ensure successful stitching.
For example, a ballpoint needle is designed to penetrate woven fabrics without causing damage or leaving marks. It features a rounded tip which makes it perfect for stretchable fabrics such as knits and Lycra. On the other hand, a denim needle has a sharply pointed tip which allows it to penetrate heavy fabrics such as denim without causing damage. Quilting needles, on the other hand, are designed for stitching through multiple layers of heavy fabric.
Whichever type of needle is used, it is important to ensure that it is well-maintained and regularly checked for signs of wear and tear. It should be changed approximately every eight hours of use or as soon as signs of wear are detected.
Compatibility Issues
It is important to note that while needles may look almost identical, they may be made by different manufacturers and may not be compatible with each other. Different brands of sewing machines will use different needles, and there are also some types of needles that are only compatible with certain machines.
For example, some machines only accept needles made by a specific manufacturer, while others may require needles that have a particular shape or size. It is also important to note that machine needles are not interchangeable with hand needles, so it is important to make sure that the correct needle is being used for the project.
The best way to ensure that the correct needle is being used is to consult the machine’s manual or an expert. Another approach is to visit a sewing supply store and ask for advice. Finally, the Internet and YouTube are great resources for finding out more about the types of needles, their uses, and the brands that are compatible with particular machines.
Opinions of Experts
Sewing is a highly specialised craft, so it makes sense to consult experts for advice when it comes to purchasing the right supplies. Most experts agree that universal needles are the most versatile and are best suited for a wide range of fabrics and materials. However, they also advise that it is important to use the right needle for the project to ensure the best possible results.
For example, Dr. Martha Resnik, a professor of fashion and apparel design, recommends using needles that are designed specifically for the type of fabric being used. She states that this will not only help to ensure that the stitches are neat and even, but also that the needle does not get damaged. She also stresses the importance of regularly inspecting the needles for signs of wear and tear, which includes bent needles or burred points.
Highly acclaimed fashion designer, Karl Lagerfeld, is of the opinion that a universal needle is the best choice, as long as they are used properly and regularly inspected. He believes that needles that are specifically designed for a specific fabric are too specific and should only be used if absolutely necessary.
What Sewers Say
Sewers, both amateur and professional, often prefer universal needles to other types of needles. They find that universal needles are most suitable for a wide range of fabrics and materials, which makes them a great all-round choice. They also appreciate that universal needles are usually a bit cheaper than other types, making them better value for money.
However, some sewers do prefer to use specific needles for specific fabrics. Experienced sewers know that the use of the wrong type of needle can cause damage to the fabric or even lead to the machine malfunctioning, so they prefer to take the time to find the most suitable needle for their project.
Although the debate of whether all needles are universal will likely continue for some time, experienced sewers always make sure to use the right needle for their project. They take the time to research the fabrics they are working with, the type of sewing machine they are working on, and the types of needles available before making a purchase.
Advanced Stitches
When it comes to choosing a needle for an advanced project or technique, such as appliqué or an embroidery stitch, sewers may need to use a more specialized needle. Appliqué needles, for example, feature an extra-long eye and a sharp tip which is designed to penetrate multiple layers of fabric. Similarly, embroidery needles have a longer shaft than a universal needle and a shaped eye to help the thread slide smoothly through the fabric closer to the needle point.
In general, universal needles are a great all-round choice for most projects, but for advanced techniques, a specialist needle is often needed to achieve the desired result. Doing some research and consulting an expert can help to make sure that the correct needle is chosen for the project.
Sizing and Serging
When purchasing needles, it is important to make sure that the right size is chosen. Most needles are marked with a two- or three-digit number which refers to the needle’s diameter. The two digits refer to the American (or Singer) needle sizing system, while the three digits refer to the European needle sizing system. A good rule of thumb is the larger the number, the thicker the needle and the thicker the fabric it can handle.
It is important to note that most serger needles are different from regular sewing machine needles. Sergers use special needles with a cutting edge, which helps to keep the fabric even as it is being stitched. For best results, serger needles should be changed approximately every 8 hours of use or when signs of wear are visible.
In conclusion, although universal needles are the most widely used, there are other types of needles available and it is important to make sure the correct one is chosen for the project. If in doubt, it is always worth consulting an expert for advice.
