Sewing knits on a regular sewing machine can be both a fun and tricky task for many sewers. The trick is to identify the right setting, stitching and presser foot choice that can help you sew knits accurately and easily. Whether you are a beginner or experienced sewer it is important to understand which fabrics require which machine settings. Here, we will discuss how you can stitch knits on a regular sewing machine with ease.
The two most important aspects when sewing knits are tension and stitch length. Many sewers prefer to reduce their top tension to 1 or even 0 when sewing knits. This reduces the amount of stitching that will pull on the fibers and misshape the knit fabric. On the other hand, sewers like to increase their stitch length up to a 3 or 4 when sewing knits. Longer stitches allow knits to stretch and move with the body rather than strain against it.
These settings may also depend on the type of knit fabric you are using. Heavier knits, such as corduroy, require different tension and stitch settings from lighter knits, such as jersey. It is important to do a test on a scrap piece of fabric before attempting to sew the garment. That way, you can determine if you need to adjust the settings or use a different stitch pattern.
In addition to adjusting the tension and stitch length, many sewers use a different presser foot for sewing knits to different regular sewing machines. The zig zag foot is usually the best choice, as it allows the fabric to feed evenly. There are also specialty presser feet that give extra clearance for thick knit fabrics such as fleece or denim. No matter which presser foot you use, it is essential that the feed dogs are set low enough so they don’t bunch or distort the fabric.
When it comes to the stitches themselves, a slightly longer straight stitch or even a triple stitch is best suited for most knits. This helps prevent the fabric from stretching or distorting. A triple stitch is simply three stitches sewn together, with one stitch taking up the slack of the previous stitch. It is similar to a reinforcing stitch and is also used on seams and hems.
In addition to adjusting the settings and using the correct presser foot and stitches, it is also important to select the correct needle for sewing knits on a regular sewing machine. Jersey needles have a slight ball-point at the tip and are designed to penetrate knit fabrics without causing fibers to be cut or snagged. Stretch needles have a slightly rounded tip and are designed for hard to feed fabrics like spandex, Lycra, or elastic.
Finally, when stitching knits on a regular sewing machine, sewers should use a narrow zigzag stitch. This helps to stretch the fabric and is especially helpful when sewing stretchy fabrics such as spandex. When finished, trim any excess threads and carefully press the fabric with a low to medium heat iron. With these tips in mind, you should be able to sew knits on a regular sewing machine with ease.
Needle Type
As mentioned before, needle selection is important when sewing knits on a regular sewing machine. Jersey and stretch needles are the most commonly used needles for knits, as they are designed to penetrate the fabric without cutting individual fibers. However, it is still important to do a test to determine if the needle is the correct size for the type of fabric.
For example, when sewing lightweight knits such as t-shirts, it is best to choose a universal needle. This type of needle is a little wider than a regular jersey or stretch needle and helps prevent skipped stitches. On the other hand, when sewing heavier knits such as corduroy or fleece, a heavy duty needle is recommended. This will help keep the fabric from shifting or puckering while being sewn.
Regardless of which type of needle you choose, it is important to remember that needles wear out quickly when sewing knits. Therefore, it is important to check your needle periodically and replace it when necessary. This will ensure that your stitches remain even and your fabric does not pucker or break threads.
Sewing with a Serger
Many sewers also prefer to use a serger when sewing knits. A serger is a specialized sewing machine that can cut, sew and finish the fabric in one step. Sergers are typically used to finish raw edges, create professional looking seams and hem knits quickly and easily.
However, it is important to note that sergers are not the ideal machine for sewing intricate garments. They can be difficult to work with and require some practice to ensure accurate stitching. For this reason, it is best to stick to a regular sewing machine when sewing complex garments such as dresses or blouses.
In addition, there are two types of sergers that are suitable for sewing knits: overlock and coverstitch. Overlock sergers have three or four cutting blades that cut away excess fabric and trim any raw edges. Coverstitch machines, on the other hand, can be used to stitch and finish hems and garments.
However, when using a serger it is important to remember to keep the fabric from bunching or stretching. One way to do this is to adjust the differential feed on the serger to match the fabric. This will help keep the fabric from stretching or puckering as it is being stitched.
Slip Stitching Notions
Many sewers opt to slip stitch or hand stitch their fabrics when sewing knits on a regular sewing machine. Slip stitching is when a single thread is looped through two fabric layers and then tied off. This is most commonly used to hem knits and can be much faster and easier than using a regular sewing machine.
When it comes to slip stitching, it is important to choose the right size and type of thread. Cotton threads are best suited for hand stitching knits, as they are stronger and less likely to stretch or break when sewn. Additionally, for heavier knits it is best to choose a thicker thread. A thicker thread is less likely to fray and will provide added strength to the stitch.
Finally, it is important to use the correct needles and notions when slip stitching. These needles are designed to pass easily through fabric layers without leaving any noticeable holes. Additionally, stitch markers, clips and other tools can help keep the fabric in place until it is ready to be stitched. By using the correct tools, you can make sure that your stitches stay even and secure.
Practice Makes Perfect
Overall, sewing knits on a regular sewing machine may seem challenging at first, but with practice and patience, it can be done effortlessly. Every fabric is unique, so it is important to practice on scraps or samples before attempting to sew your garment. This will help determine the right settings, presser foot and stitches for your machine.
Finally, be sure to read the instructions before starting. Many machine and fabric manufacturers have specific instructions that must be followed in order to get the best results. With these tips in hand, you should be able to sew knits on your regular sewing machine with ease.
