Main Topic: How to Adjust a Sewing Machine for Stretchy Fabric
Using a sewing machine for stretchy fabric can be challenging for sewers of any experience level. Knowing the correct settings and properly adjusting a sewing machine for different types of stretchy fabric is critical to producing successful results.
When sewing apparel fabrics with lycra and spandex, the stitch settings need to be adjusted in three ways: length, width and tension. To create a strong and durable seam, it’s important to lengthen the stitch length slightly, increase the stitch width, and increase the tension.
First, when the stitch length is adjusted, the needle is pushed forward with more force. The longer the stitch, the more secure the thread will enter and exit the fabric. This will reduce gathering, puckering, and tension issues. The recommended lengthened stitch length for stretchy fabric is somewhere between 2.5mm and 3mm. However, fabric weight and type also determines the ideal stitch length.
Second, the stitch width needs to be increased when working with stretchy fabric. This will reduce needle strain, and cause the needle to spread the fabric’s fibers apart, creating more spaces for the thread to move freely. The wider the stitch is set, the stronger the seam sewers will achieve.
Lastly, when working with stretchy fabrics the tension needs to be increased. This will ensure that the fabric is properly held together, and will reduce the stitching becoming loose and slipping. This can be adjusted by turning the tension knob, which is usually placed on the left hand side of the machine.
Different Types of Stitches
When adjusting a sewing machine for stretchy fabric, the type of stitch used is important. A straight stitch is not recommended for sewing stretchy fabrics because it won’t stretch with the fabric and could eventually break. Tropical, or lightening, stitches are the best option. A tropical stitch is a row of two small stitches followed by a longer stitch, repeating in a pattern.
Reverse stitching is also important when sewing with stretchy fabric to further secure the seam. Sewers should reverse stitch for about 1/4”, then forward stitch again for durable seams. This will lock the thread onto the fabric and reduce any slipping.
Using a walking foot can also help sewers better construct stretchy fabric projects. A walking foot is a specialized presser foot that is placed on the machine, and helps keep the fabric layers separated and the seam from stretching out of shape. This tool is not necessary, but can be helpful.
Presser Foot Selection
Presser foot selection is also important when working with stretchy fabrics, and can affect the outcome of a project. The Zipper Foot is a great choice when sewing stockinette stitch, because it ensures that the stitches don’t sink below the surface of the fabric. Ballpoint or Stretch Needles are also the best choice when sewing polyester fabrics to ensure that the needle penetrates the fabric without damaging the fibers.
Stretch Blind Stitch foot and the Overedge foot are both good choices for specialty materials such as lace or tricot fabric. Sewers can always refer to the machine’s instruction manual for the correct presser foot for a specific fabric.
Tools and Supplies
Using the correct tools and supplies when sewing with stretchy fabric helps maintain the integrity of the fabric, and the outcome of the project. The correct type of thread should always be used for the machine: Polyester for regular home machine and Polyester-Wrapped Spun for industrial machines. Sewers should also stock their sewing kits with needles that are designated for knit fabrics.
Using a stabilizer can also be beneficial when sewing easier to control and fabric manipulation. This could be in the form of a tear-away stabilizer, clear film or marker pens, which will help control flow or the fabric of the source.
Finally the use of steam can help fabric manipulation and the stitches “sink” into the fabric. This will also help reduce puckering and wrinkling. Heat should be applied on the right side of the fabric with a sprayer or steam iron on a low setting for best results.
Seam Allowances
When stitching stretchy fabric correctly, the seam allowance is usually smaller than in other materials. The seam allowance should be around 1/4”, which will help maintain the garment or project fit and shape, as well as prevent raw edges from popping out.
Datings should also be taken into account when sewing with stretchy fabrics. When constructing straight edges, such as side seams and hems, notches and dots should be marked with a marker pen that has a special water-soluble ink for easy removal.
Seam Finishes
The finishing touches of a garment or project rely heavily on the seam finishes employed. Sewers can use serge stretch seams, zigzag stitch hems or even French seams. Hemming with a zigzag stitch is one of the most popular seam finishes for stretchy fabric as it offers great flexibility and stretch.
Twin-needle stitching is another seam finish option for stretchy fabric projects. Twin-needle stitching is a decorative stitch similar to tropical stitches, but it uses two needles that move together to make a decorative row of stitches.
Conclusion
Using a sewing machine for stretchy fabrics can be challenging, but with the right tools, supplies, and settings it can be done with ease. Sewers should adjust the sewing machine settings, use the proper type of stitch and presser foot, pick the right tools and supplies, and look into the different seam finishes to ensure the best outcomes.
