How to Adjust Sewing Machine for Thicker Fabric
Accessorizing with handmade clothing items can be a great way to make your wardrobe stand out, but when sewing thicker fabrics, a sewing machine may need to be adjusted to ensure the best stitch results. Understanding the basic configurations of a typical sewing machine, along with a few adjustments, can go a long way to ensure the best results when working with thicker fabrics.
Motion Configuration
The two primary components to consider when adjusting a sewing machine for thicker fabric are the mechanical motion configuration of the presser foot and the fabric feed dogs. The presser foot and feed dogs control the movement of the fabric as it passes through the sewing machine, and for thicker fabric, a stronger, more rigid presser foot and more aggressive feed dogs are needed. Depending on the specific model of the sewing machine, the presser foot can generally be adjusted so it will press down more firmly; similarly, some feed dogs can be adjusted so they rub more aggressively against the fabric.
Needle Choice
Choosing an appropriate needle is also important. Generally, when working with thicker fabrics, a needle with a larger eye and size is needed. A size 14 needle is commonly recommended for fabric of medium thickness, while sizes 16 and 18 may be required for slightly thicker materials such as outdoor fabrics. Stronger, heavier-duty needles are also available, but they can be more difficult to work with. Choosing a needle with a sharp point and using a lubricant such as beeswax or Thread Heaven (a space-aged wax formula) are both recommendations to help get the fabric through the presser foot without pulling.
Stitch Size and Length
For thicker fabrics, selecting the correct stitch size and stitch length is also important. Longer stitches can also be used, as they hold the fabric better and provide a more secure seam. For most sewing machines, a stitch length of 3.0 or 3.5 will work well, while a stitch size of 14 to 18 works best. Higher stitch sizes result in a more secure seam, but with larger stitches, the fabric can bunch up, so the ideal size will vary depending on the fabric.
Thread Choice
The thread used for sewing thick fabric also needs to be of a strong and suitable weight. Polyester thread is typically used for thicker fabrics and is less likely to stretch or break, although cotton thread can also be used if desired. It is also a good idea to use a heavier-weight thread on the bobbin, as it will provide greater strength when sewing thicker fabrics.
Presser Foot Pressure
Maintaining a constant presser foot pressure can be difficult when dealing with thicker fabrics. However, it is essential to ensure the even flow of fabric and the highest quality of sewing. Some sewing machines have a pressure adjustment dial that can be used to adjust the pressure. Otherwise, the presser foot pressure can be adjusted manually by turning the adjuster screw on the presser foot until the desired pressure is achieved.
Feed Dog Motion
Adjusting the motion of the fabric feed dogs is another important step when working with thicker fabric. This is because the feed dogs are responsible for the movement of the fabric and can affect the quality of the stitch. Generally, the feed dogs should be set to the highest speed, although this may vary depending on the sewing machine used. For heavy fabrics, it may be necessary to adjust them to a slower speed for better control.
Bobbin Tension
It is important to adjust the bobbin tension for heavier fabrics, as the bobbin threads need to be held firmly in order to prevent them from unraveling and producing a poor quality stitch. Generally, the bobbin tension can be adjusted with a screw on the side of the machine, and a higher tension will be needed for heavier fabrics. It is also recommended to use heavier-weight bobbins, as they are thicker and provide more stability.
Additional Preparations
In addition to the adjustments listed above, there are a few other simple steps that can be taken to help ensure the best results when sewing heavyweight fabrics. It is important to use a sharp, sturdy pair of scissors when cutting fabric, as this will produce a cleaner cut and reduce the risk of fraying. It can also be useful to use a longer stitch length to make a stronger seam, and pressing the seams with an iron can help to reduce bulk and provide a smoother finish.
Using a Walking Foot Attachment
Using a walking foot attachment can also be helpful when working with thicker fabrics, as it is designed to evenly feed fabric through the sewing machine and ensure a smooth stitch. The walking foot is attached to the top of the sewing machine and is designed to replicate the motion of the fabric feed dogs. The walking foot can be particularly useful when working with fabrics that are prone to slipping or shifting, such as fleece or velvet.
Using an Appropriate Needle Plate
Finally, whenever working with thicker fabrics, it is important to use an appropriate needle plate for the fabric being used. This plate is designed to help reduce drag and help the fabric pass through the machine more smoothly. Many sewing machines come with interchangeable needle plates, so it is best to use the appropriate plate for the fabric being used.
Using the Proper Stitch Settings
When adjusting the settings for thicker fabric, it is important to use longer stitches, stronger thread and higher stitch sizes. This will ensure that the seam is strong and secure and will help reduce the risk of the stitches pulling or unraveling. For thicker materials, the stitch size should be adjusted to 14 to 18, while a larger stitch size may be needed for heavy fabrics such as canvas or denim.
Using a Professional-Grade Sewing Machine
Using a higher quality sewing machine can also work wonders when dealing with thicker fabrics. Professional grade models are designed to handle heavier fabrics and typically have a larger variety of features and functions. These models can generally handle heavier, thicker fabrics more easily and will often produce the best quality stitch results.
Using Teflon Foot Attachments
Finally, it can be beneficial to use a Teflon foot attachment when working with thicker fabrics. This Teflon foot is designed with a special coating that can help reduce sticking and make it easier for the fabric to glide through the machine. The Teflon foot also helps to prevent irritating snags that can sometimes occur when dealing with heavier fabrics.
