Slip-stitching something by hand can be tedious and time consuming, resulting in imperfect stitches and an unfinished look. Blind hemming with a sewing machine is the best way to secure hems without it being visible and the process is faster and more reliable. Fortunately, learning how to blind hem with a sewing machine can be as simple as watching a YouTube tutorial or learning from a friend.
The basics of blind hemming require a sewing machine, scissors, an iron and marking pen and a few other supplies. Once these supplies are gathered, the project begins by starting with the right side of the fabric. If corners or curves must be rounded, they should be done with the marking pen before the fabric is cut.
Next, it is important to create a fold, which is the part of the hem that will remain on the outside of the fabric when finished. This fold, usually about 3/4 inch, should be created with an iron and the stitches should be marked with a mark pen or tailor’s chalk. Once the fold is secured with a presser foot and the hem is marked, it is time to begin stitching.
When stitching a blind hem, it is best to start in the middle and slowly work outwards, making sure to always use the same number of stitches. This ensures that the stitches will be even and consistent. When stitching the sides, the needle should be kept close to the fold, making sure the fabric is kept flat. The feed dog should always be lowered when the hem is being stitched in order to get a better grip on the fabric.
When blind hemming around sharp corners, the fabric should be moved slowly, as too much force may cause it to become warped or twisted. To help keep the fabric from bunching up or getting stuck in the machine, the needle should always be inserted at an angle. Once the stitching is finished, the finished product should be inspected for accuracy and any corrections should be made with a seam ripper.
It is also important to remember to remove all pins from the project before any stitching is done. If pins are left in the fabric, they can cause the stitching to become crooked or uneven, resulting in a sloppy finished product. Now that the basics of blind hemming with a sewing machine have been covered, it is time to explore a few more tips that can help to perfect the technique.
Identify the Right Foot
When starting a blind hem, it is important to choose the right foot to use. Most sewing machines come with a blind hem foot that is specifically designed to help with a blind hem, but any foot can be used if it is adjusted to the right settings. It is also important to adjust the stitch width on the machine. When done properly, blind hemming can be done with a machine’s straight stitch setting.
Once the right foot has been chosen and the settings have been adjusted, it is time to begin stitching. To start, the needle should be inserted near the fold with the thread behind the foot and the foot should be moved up and down as fabric is pulled carefully through the machine. This ensures that a consistent stitch is being made.
It is also important to keep in mind that the stitches should never be too tight or too loose. They should be just tight enough to secure the hem without creating any puckers or bunching up of the fabric. When in doubt, it is always better to use a looser tension when stitching a blind hem.
Clip the Seam Allowance
Once the blind hem has been stitched, it is important to clip the seam allowance. This means cutting away any excess fabric that is not needed, such as threads or extra fabric along the hem. Clipping the seam allowances helps keep the hem neat and even while providing a clean, professional finish.
It is important to remember that the seam allowances should only be clipped after stitching is complete. Clipping the fabric before the hem is stitched can result in a crooked or uneven finished product, so it is best to avoid clipping the seam allowance until after the hem has been stitched.
When clipping the seam allowance, it is important to be careful not to clip too much of the fabric. Too much clipping can result in small gaps or holes in the hem. It is always best to err on the side of caution when clipping the seam allowance and to keep the clips as small and as precise as possible.
Finishing Touches
To finish a blind hem, it is important to press and steam the fabric. This helps to tighten up any loose threads, giving the hem a polished and professional look. It is also important to check the hem once it has been steamed to make sure that all of the stitches are even and secure.
Once the hem has been inspected and any corrections have been made, it is time to finish the project. If the hem is going to be laundered or washed, it is important to add a bit of interfacing to the back of the hem to help keep it from stretching or losing its shape. This is also a good time to add any embroidery or decorative stitching, which will help set the project apart and make it look even more professional.
Considerations for Different Fabrics
Different fabrics require different techniques when it comes to blind hemming. For thicker fabrics, it is important to use heavier thread that is strong enough to secure the stitches. It is also important to use a longer stitch, as shorter stitches can be pulled apart easily.
For fabrics that are more delicate or thin, it is important to use a thin thread that is less likely to show or pucker. It is also important to use a gentle presser foot and to go slowly when stitching, as too much pressure can cause the fabric to bunch up or get stuck in the machine.
When blind hemming velvet, it is important to use interfacing to help keep the stitches secure. Interfacing will also help to prevent the velvet from slipping or bunching up. It is also important to use a slow, gentle stitch when stitching velvet, as too much pressure can cause the velvet to become stretched or misshaped.
Practice to Perfection
The best way to perfect the art of blind hemming is to practice. Different fabrics require different techniques, so it is important to try different fabrics and different fabrics weights to get comfortable with the technique.
In addition to different fabrics, it is also important to practice different styles of hemming. Flat hems, rolled hems and even top stitching can all be done with a sewing machine. The more different styles that are practiced, the faster and more comfortable the technique will become.
Connecting Threads for a Professional Finish
It is important to always use the same color thread when blind hemming. This ensures that any visible stitches will be consistent and will not distract from the finished product. It is also important to use a thread that matches the fabric as closely as possible. If the thread is too dark or too light, it will detract from the overall look of the finished product.
Finally, it is important to check for any loose threads. Loose threads can result in puckers or holes in the fabric. It is best to take the time to go through the entire length of the fabric and check for any loose threads before the hem is finished.
Using a Drape for a Professional Hemline
When blind hemming a skirt or dress, it is important to use a drape to get a professional look. The drape helps to give the hem a more finished and polished look, while also preventing the stitches from becoming visible. It is important to place pins through the hem and the drape to hold it in place while being stitched.
When using a drape, it is important to make sure that the drape is not too thick. A thick drape can cause the fabric to become bunched up and can also make the hem look bulky. It is best to use a lightweight fabric for a drape and to make sure that it is trimmed to the desired size before it is pinned to the hem.
Finally, it is important to remember that blind hemming with a sewing machine is only one of the many techniques used for securing hems. For a project that requires a delicate touch and precision, hand-sewing might be the best option. Learning the basics of blind hemming with a sewing machine can help novice sewers move onto more advanced projects, while allowing experienced sewers to perfect their technique.
