Type of Needle
Before deciding on a sewing machine needle, it is important to be armed with the right knowledge of how to select the type of needle that is suitable for the material and thread weight. To pick up the right needle, the seamstress needs to consider the material it will be sewing. The needle size differs depending on material and the type and weight of the thread to be used with it.
Heavyweight fabrics like denim and upholstery require thicker needles, such as a 90/14 or 100/16. These needles come in various sizes and numbered from 60 to 110. For lightweight fabrics, finer needles like a 65/9, 70/10, and 80/12 are used. The first number represents the European metric size number, and the second number the American imperial size number.
Shape and System
After selecting the right size, the sewing machine needle needs to be considered in terms of its shape and system. This determines the performance of the needle and helps to ensure that the needle used is suited to the material to be sewn.
When it comes to shape, needles can be divided into two groups – round shank and flat shank. Round shank needles are generally used in home sewing machines, while flat shank needles are specifically designed for use in industrial machines. Furthermore, needles feature systems that indicate the way they are designed to work with the machine. The two common systems are 135×17 and anything which is not this systems is considered as universal.
Quality
Sewing machine needles differ in quality, style and purpose. Those coming from world-leading brands like Schmetz and Organ have a higher quality than the other needles and can make or break a high-end machine.
Organ make a large selection of high-end needles, ranging from the Organ 55×7 (a longer needle designed for leather) to the Organ 75×11 (a lightweight needle perfect for lace). Schmetz produce a superior quality Universal needle – the Schmetz 130×7, which is suitable for most fabrics, from silk to denim. By ensuring one picks the right type of needle specifically suited to their fabric, their sewing projects will have a much neater finish.
Sharpness
Choosing a needle with the right sharpness is essential for the success of the project. A sharp needle will cut through the fabric with minimal effort and result in a long-lasting stitching,but a blunt needle will make it difficult to stitch.
In order to achieve a neat finish, one should not skip considering the sharpness of the needle. Always use a sharp and new needle for each project as a good quality needle can pass through the fabric like a razor blade. Additionally, using a new and well-maintained needle can offer better protection by reducing fabric-puckering, skipped stitches and uneven stitches.
Frequency of Change
The most suitable needle should be changed every three to four projects to ensure accuracy and quality. Such regular maintenance and replacesment will help protect the machine and improve stitching.
Apart from the right needle and fabrics, thread quality also matters when it comes to the look of the fabric. Changing needles and threads regularly ensures that the finished project looks neat and does not suffer from missing stitches or any damages.
Thread Selection
The complete needle selection process is made even more important when working with different types of thread.For instance, polyester thread is best sewn with a universal needle and a medium size thread. Likewise, a cotton thread requires a ballpoint needle, or a sharp point needle, and as heavy a thread as possible.
If in doubt, a quick visit to the trusted fabric store or haberdashery can offer advice on which type of needle and thread will work best for a particular fabric.
Storage Options
Organizing the needles can be a daunting task. Various storage options, such as thread stand with a magnetic strip attachable atop a sewing machine or a needlebook are available in fabric stores. These come with compartments of various sizes and a clear cover to store and organize needles.
For large or industrial sewing machines, machines can be attached with plastic needle boxes in the form of a metal bar, drill and hole. This allows one to store multiple needles and keep them organized for easy access, allowing for faster replacement.
Preparing the Needles
When replacing sewing machine needles, it is important to always clean them thoroughly first, as dust and debris can become pitted on the needle over time. This would cause the needle not to pass through the fabric smoothly and result in lint build-up that would embed in the fabric and thread.
To ensure that the sewing process runs smoothly and the thread and fabric are not damaged, one should prepare their needle by brushing it off gently with a clean, soft and dry brush.
Testing the Needle
Once the needles are clean, it is important to check them for any imperfections. Needles that have been bent, distorted or broken should be discarded. Additionally, if the needle has nicks or burrs, it should also be discarded.
The best way to test the needle is to place it onto the needle bar. If the point hangs below the eye of the needle, it is probably too dull and should be replaced. Moreover, if the needle does not pass through the fabric evenly and stops at the end, it may be blunt or too large for the fabric.
Thread Tension and Foot Pressure
It is also crucial to ensure that the tread tension, foot pressure, knitting etc are adjusted according to the type of fabric and needle being used. Having the right balance of thread tension, foot pressure and needle size will also guarantee a professional finish.
Using the right needle with the correct tension and pressure settings will also save fabric, thread and time. It will prevent knots and form secure stitches which enhances the appearance of the finished garments.
Final Thoughts
For a neat, professional finish and the best results, taking the time to learn the basics of how to choose the right sewing machine needle is essential. It is important to consider the size, shape and system of the needle, as well as its sharpness, thread selection and replacement frequency. Additionally, it also pays to keep needles organised and clean for maximum effectiveness.
