Parts of a Hem stitch
A hem stitch is a sewing machine technique for joining fabric. As a basic technique, it is used to attach hem to the bottom edge of a garment or other item. The process of making a hem stitch includes using a feed dog, needle, and bobbin thread.
Feed Dog
The feed dog is a series of teeth located at the base plate of the sewing machine. It is responsible for feeding the fabric through the machine. The feed dog is also used to guide the needle in the correct direction while making a hem stitch and allows the needle to pick up the fabric and move it along the desired line.
Needle
The needle is the component that pierces through the fabric and creates the seam. The needle should be long enough to fit through the thickness of the fabric, as well as the hem line. Additionally, needles should be sharp to ensure that it sews the fabric together properly. Generally, a size 75/11 needle is used for making a hem stitch.
Bobbin Thread
The bobbin thread is a type of thread that is wound around a small cylinder-shaped spool referred to as the “bobbin”. With hem stitching, the bobbin thread is used to complete the stitch as it is pulled up through the fabric. The bobbin thread should also be strong enough to hold the fabric together.
How to Do a Hem stitch
When sewing a hem stitch, it is important to properly setup the machine. To begin the setup, first adjust the presser foot. The presser foot is used to guide the fabric when feeding it through the machine and should be adjusted to the desired style of hem stitch. Next, insert the bobbin thread and select the desired stitch from the preset options on the machine.
Once the machine is set up, the fabric needs to be lined up along the edge of the hem. To do this, place the edge of the fabric along the edge of the hem, ensuring that it is evenly placed and does not contain any wrinkles. The fabric should then be fed into the machine, following the directions of the feed dog.
Once the needle has pierced through the fabric, slowly move the feed dog in the desired direction. This will guide the fabric, enabling the needle to continue piercing through while it follows the feed dog. As the needle passes through the fabric, the bobbin thread should be pulled up through the fabric, creating the desired style of hem stitch.
It is important to adjust the tension of the bobbin thread throughout the seam. If the bobbin thread is too tight, the hem stitch may not form correctly and can become too loose. Too much tension can also cause puckering or puckering of fabric.
Once the hem stitch is complete, the feed dog can be reset to its original position and the needle should be reset to its resting position. Doing this allows for the continuous stitching of the fabric and ensures that no loose threads remain on the fabric.
Tips for Sewing a Hem Stitch
When sewing a hem stitch, there are a few tips to keep in mind. Firstly, to ensure that the needle does not pierce the fabric too far, a cotton piece of fabric taped to the underside of the machine bed will help as a guide. Additionally, using a walking foot on the machine will help to ensure that the fabric is properly fed through the machine. Finally, when the hem stitch is complete, it is best to finish the edges with a serger or an overlock stitch to prevent the seams from unraveling.
Benefits of Sewing a Hem Stitch
There are many benefits to sewing a hem stitch. Firstly, it creates a professional and finished look on garments, which makes them look more appealing when worn. Additionally, it gives structure to hemlines, providing garment consistency and accuracy. Additionally, it makes the fabric more durable and prevents unraveling.
Common Mistakes when Sewing a Hem Stitch
When sewing a hem stitch, it is important to be aware of common mistakes. Firstly, an improper selection of stitches can result in a weak seam. Additionally, if the tension on the bobbin thread is too tight or too loose, the fabric may pucker or gaps may occur. It is also common for the needle thread to break due to an improper choice of needle or an incorrect stitching position. Lastly, when sewing multiple seams together, make sure to match the stitches as this will ensure an even seam.
How to Use a Hem Stitch on Different Types of Fabric
The hem stitch can be used on a variety of different fabrics, such as synthetic and natural fabrics. When sewing a hem stitch on synthetic fabrics, it is best to use a smaller needle size, such as a 70/10 or 75/11. Additionally, synthetics usually require a special needle to ensure an even seam and prevent the fabric from buckling or puckering.
When sewing a hem stitch on natural fabrics, it is important to use the correct needle size and tension. Generally, natural fabrics require a larger needle, such as 80/12 or even 90/14. Additionally, the bobbin tension should be adjusted so that the seam is neither too tight or too loose.
Tools for Making Hem Stitch
In order to properly make a hem stitch, there are some tools required. Firstly, it is important to have the proper needle and bobbin in order to ensure that the stitch is even and strong. Additionally, having the appropriate tools on hand will also help to create accurate hems. These tools include a pair of straight-edged and curved-edge scissors, a seam ripper, tweezers, and a small ruler.
Conclusion
Making a hem stitch is a simple yet effective technique that can be used to create professional-looking hems. The process can be done quickly and easily with the right tools and techniques. Although there are some common mistakes that can be made when making a hem stitch, learning the key steps and having the proper tools can help to ensure that the stitch is correctly and successfully completed.
