Selvage Edge
In order to achieve a high-quality result when doing an invisible hem on a sewing machine, the most important step is to accurately identify and work with the selvage edge. The selvage is the fabric’s finished edge and is created during the weaving stage of fabric production; it is usually slightly thicker than the rest of the material and runs parallel to the lengthwise grain.
When correctly incorporated into a project, the selvage can be used to finish seams without the need to overlock or zigzag, as well as to create neat, finished hems.
Gathering the Fabric
Once you’ve located the selvage edge, the next step is to gather the fabric. For an invisible hem, it’s best to keep the gathering as even as possible, so you’ll want to adjust the gathering width according to the material to avoid waviness or puckering. Gathering can be done by hand or by using the gathering foot of your sewing machine.
Fold the Hem
Once the fabric is gathered, the next step is to fold the hem. There are two different ways to do this. The first is with the right side of the fabric facing up and the wrong side facing down. The fabric should then be folded towards the wrong side until the desired hem allowance measurement is achieved. The second method is to fold the fabric with the right side facing down and the wrong side facing up. This method will result in a hem casing – a type of hem that encloses elastic or other materials.
Staystitching
Once the hem is folded, it’s important to secure the fabric with a few rows of staystitching before stitching the hem. This will help to keep the fabric from shifting or stretching during the sewing process. A staystitch should be done along the fold of the hem, about ¼” from the edge.
Pin the Hem
At this stage, the hem should be pinned in place. Make sure the pins are small enough to be hidden underneath the hem allowance. The goal is to make sure the pins are not visible when the hem is finished.
Stitch the Hem
Using a straight stitch, sew the hem in place. It’s best to use a slightly longer length of thread than you normally would, as this will help to ensure that the thread is not visible when the hem is finished.
Press the Hem
Once the hem is stitched in place, it’s important to press it to ensure that the fabric is properly aligned and pressed. This will ensure that the hem is invisible when the project is complete.
Tacking
Tacking is an important step when doing an invisible hem. This involves stitching the hem in a way that will not show on the wrong side of the garment, enabling the hem to fall correctly when worn. To do this, set the sewing machine to the longest stitch length, then sew along the folded edge of the hem, about ⅛” from the edge.
Sizing of the Hem
A proper size for the hem allowance is the most important aspect of an invisible hem. It will give the hem the weight it needs to hang correctly and will diminish the presence of the stitching from the front of the garment. Measure and adjust the hem while the fabric is pinned, before actually stitching it.
Making a Blind Hem
Making a blind hem is a great way to finish a garment using an invisible hem. This is done by first tacking the hem allowance in place, and then using a blind hem foot to do the stitching. This method will ensure that the hem is completely invisible when finished, giving the garment a professional look.
Invisible Hemstitching
Invisible hems can also be done with hemstitching. This involves making a tiny, barely visible stitch along the edge of the hem. This technique requires skill and a good eye, as the stitching must be done in a way that is not only invisible but secure.
Thread Weaving a Hem
Another method for creating an invisible hem is thread weaving. This is done by weaving the thread along the edge of the hem, making sure to keep it as tight and even as possible. This technique requires patience and skill, but the result is an almost invisible hem.
Additions to hem
Once an invisible hem has been created, it can be further enhanced with additional decorative stitches or trims. This can be done by using a sewing machine to stitch the desired items onto the hem before pressing and completing the project.
Hem Finishing
The last step in completing an invisible hem is the finishing. This involves removing any excess threads and making sure that the hem is properly pressed. A steamer can also be used to give the hem a polished look.
Facing the Hem
When adding a facing to a hem, the fabric should first be cut to the desired length. The facing should then be pinned to the raw edge of the hem and stitched in place.
Hem Finishing Techniques
There are several techniques for finishing a hem. One of the most popular methods is the professional hand-rolled hem. In this technique, the fabric is rolled up at the raw edge and then stitched to the wrong side of the garment. This results in an almost invisible hem when finished.
Tutued Hem
The tutued hem is another popular finishing technique for invisible hems. It involves gathering the fabric along the raw edge, then stitching it in place with a running stitch. The result is a slightly puffy, tutu-like hemline.
Decorative Stitches
Decorative stitches are a great way to add a unique touch to an invisible hem. This can be done by stitching designs or patterns with a sewing machine or speciality feet. It’s important to make sure that the stitches are lined up and even, so that the design looks polished when the project is finished.
Using Heat to Finish an Invisible Hem
An alternative to stitching an invisible hem is using heat to finish it. This can be done with a hot iron or a heat press. The goal is to melt the fabric fibers together, creating a strong bond that will hold the hem in place without the need for stitching.
