Understanding Overlock Stitch
An overlock stitch is a popular sewing technique used to finish seams, edges and hems. It is a two-thread stitch that ‘locks’ the edges of a fabric together, creating a neat and professional finish. It is an essential stitch when sewing knit fabrics and stretch fabrics, as the stitch is flexible enough to move with the fabric and not break as the fabric is pulled or stretched. Overlock stitching is usually done on a serger machine, although it can also be done on a regular sewing machine.
Gathering the Necessary Materials
Before getting started, make sure you have the necessary materials. You’ll need a serger machine or regular sewing machine, thread, a straight pin and scissors or sharp fabric shears. If using a regular sewing machine, you may also need an overlock presser foot.
Preparing the Fabric
Before stitching, it is important to prepare the fabric. Make sure the edges of the fabric have been trimmed and that there are no loose threads or fabric pieces that could get caught in the stitching. If using a serger machine, ensure the fabric pieces fit inside the cutting/stitching area of the serger. If you are using a regular sewing machine, fold the fabric to create an edge, and then pin it to secure it in place.
Threading the Machine
The next step is to thread the machine. For a regular sewing machine, use two spools of overlock thread: one for the left needle, and one for the right. For a serger machine, use four spools. Refer to the user manual for further guidance on threading your machine. When threading is complete, test the needle to make sure it is working and that no thread is visible on the wrong side of the fabric.
Starting Overlock Stitch
Position the fabric beneath the presser foot and line up the needle with desired seam allowance. Gently lower the presser foot and begin gently pressing the pedal to start the stitching. Let the machine do the work and keep a steady and consistent speed. Once the first seam is complete, move the fabric and continue stitching until the desired area is reached.
Finishing off the Stitch
Once you have finished stitching, gently press the reverse stitch button to secure the stitch. Then lift the presser foot and carefully pull the fabric away from the machine. To complete the overlock stitch, turn the fabric over and press the seam down flat with an iron. This will help to flatten the seam and lock the stitch in place.
Maintenance and Cleaning
It is important to keep both serger and regular sewing machines clean and well maintained. Regularly check for dust, lint and thread. If any debris is found, use a brush to gently remove it. If any thread has become tangled, use a seam ripper to carefully remove it. Ensure the tension settings are correct to get the best results, and oil moving parts every few months to keep the machine running smoothly.
Troubleshooting Overlock Stitches
If you’re having difficulty stitching, check for common problems such as incorrect tension settings, dull needles, or thread tangles. If these problems persist, it’s recommended to take the machine to a skilled technician for a professional service.
Safety Tips to Consider
When using a regular sewing machine, be sure to always select the right needle and presser foot for the project. Sewing machines have high-speed needles, so be sure to concentrate at all times and avoid putting your hands near the needle. If using a serger machine, always follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions and only use the machine with adult supervision.
Types of Overlock Stitches
There are several different types of overlock stitches to choose from, including a three-thread narrow overlock stitch, a two-thread wide overlock stitch, a four-thread wide overlock stitch, and a five-thread wide overlock stitch. Different types of stitches are suitable for different fabrics, so it’s important to choose the right type for your project.
Application of Overlock Stitches
The most common application of an overlock stitch is to edge finish garments such as t-shirts and knitwear, or to sew hems on skirts and trousers. It’s also used in other applications such as curtains and cushion covers, and is a useful technique for making natural-looking gathers.
Using Overlock Stitches for Embellishments
Overlocking can also be used for embellishments and decorative effects. By carefully controlling the tension, you can produce beautiful, easy decorative effects. It is also possible to stitch two layers together at once, creating a flat but secure seam.
More Creative Uses of Overlock Stitches
There are many other creative uses for an overlock stitch. One technique is to use a decorative stitch such as a zig-zag stitch to stitch flat edges together. You can also use colour contrast to create interesting effects, or combine overlock stitch with other stitching techniques such as backstitch or running stitch.
Understanding Different Thread Materials
When using an overlock stitch, it is important to use the right type of thread material. For example, when using a regular sewing machine, use a polyester thread for most fabrics. However, when using a serger machine, use a cotton-wrapped polyester for most fabric types. It’s also a good idea to use a colour thread that blends in seamlessly with your fabric.
The Advantages of Using an Overlock Stitch
Overlock stitching is a versatile and effective stitching technique. It is quick and easy to do, and the results are professional, neat and durable. It is also a very useful technique for sewing stretchy fabrics such as knitwear, as the flexible stitch allows the fabric to move and stretch without breaking the seam.
