With the popularization of Do-It-Yourself (DIY) projects in recent years, more people are drawn to creating handmade projects instead of buying pre-made items. For those hoping to make their own projects and clothes, having the right fabric is essential. Without a sewing machine, however, it can be difficult to gather fabric. But with the right know-how and skills, it is possible to gather fabric with simple hand tools.
Simply put, fabric gathering is the process of creating rows of soft flared pleats to collect the fullness of a skirt or dress. Until the early 1900s, full skirts that were gathered by hand were the most popular skirts for women. By using this gathering technique, the wearer can expand and contract the gathered fabric to fit varying body types.
To start gathering fabric, the right fabric is essential. Loose-weave, lightweight materials are easier and more forgiving with gathering rather than stiffer fabrics. Cotton and silk materials, such as chiffon, organza, batiste, and voile are more likely to gather rather than stretch with ease. Additionally, understanding the width of the fabric and the desired circumference of the skirt is necessary, as the amount of fabric will determine the number of pleats, the size of each pleat, and the gathering all together.
For those without a sewing machine, traditional gathering methods are possible and only require a few simple tools. Depending on the fabric, a running stitch, also called a gathering thread, can easily be made with needle and thread. Alternatively, hand basting with a large needle and thread can also gather fabric. To accentuate the pleats and gathers, a row of dressmaker’s hitch can be stitched. This stitch will bind the pleats together and give further structure to the garment.
Using a machine basting method is another way to gather fabric without needing a sewing machine. With an overlock machine, a needle on the left-hand side of the machine will create a basting stitch as triples of stitches create a binding stitch on the right-hand side. For those only equipped with a regular sewing machine, free-motion stitching will help make a basting stitch along the fabric’s topstitch.
For those wanting an even pleats and gathers on wider fabric, hand pleating can be used. As the fabric width grows, gathering and pleating manually can take time and precision. With hand pleating, the fabric is folded directly on top of the thread. The thread is then pulled as the fabric is pleated and compressed. This technique should be used with lightweight fabric and large pleats for best results.
Alternatively, for large amounts of fabric, or for those wishing to sew a small ruffle, accordion pleating is ideal. With fold lines marked in even intervals, each pleat is folded directly into the stitch as the needle moves forward. To finish the pleat, a custom fold should be made onto of the stitch line rather than above it. This creates an accordion fan, with even pleats on both sides of the fabric.
Pressing Pleats And Gathers
Once the fabric is pleated or gathered, it’s necessary to use a pressing cloth for fabric that can’t be steamed. With a pressing cloth, the pleats will be held in place until a hot iron passes over the pleat. This temperature will fix the pleats and gathers in place, but this technique can leave a residue from a pressing cloth on fragile fabrics
When pressing pleats and gathers, its best to choose a low setting with a dry iron. For more delicate fabrics, no steam should be used and it’s important to use a pressing cloth to protect the material. One technique to keep gathers in place is to attach them to a weight. This will maintain the pleats when the fabric is adjusted before sewing. It’s also important to pin pleats, as no fabric will remain flat and pleats may open when they become exposed to air.
Making The Final Look
When ready to sew, a true gathering stitch should still be used. This stitch can also be modified for each fabric, as some fabrics may require a larger stitch for a larger pleat. It’s best to stitch in a straight line, and use the gathered fabric stretch around the edges to create the desired look.
Finally, the fabric should be inspected one last time and readjusted if needed. This is especially important for lightweight fabrics such as silk and chiffon, as the fabric will curve and fall differently than heavier materials.
Alternative Gathering Techniques
In addition to sewing by hand to gather fabric, there are other techniques to make the same effect. Tying, weaving, quilting, and knotting fabric can all create unique pleats and gathers.
Tying fabric is an easy, accessible way to gather fabric. This technique can be done with a knotted stitch at the end of a piece of fabric, or with a continuous knot, making a rope-like effect. Alternatively, weaving can create a pleated fabric with a thick band. With a few strands of yarn, fabric can be folded and woven like a basket as it’s held up and bound by the yarn.
Quilting fabric can also create a pleated look, but with a different pattern or texture. With large fabric squares, a strip of fabric, or a strip of batting can be held up by a small hand stitch, creating large pleats with a quilted effect. Finally, knotting fabric is another way to gather fabric without a sewing machine. By creating small, customized knots, fullness can be gathered and folded within a fabric for a draped effect.
Machine Gathering Versus Hand Gathering
Although gathering fabric by machine is much faster, hand gathering has its own advantages. For larger pieces of fabric, it can be difficult to machine gather materials correctly. Additionally, hand gathering is much easier to readjust and tailor if the fit needs to be changed.
Hand gathering provides even more control of the fabric and allows wider pleats to create areas of texture and style to garments. With hand gathering, draping gathers and ruffles become much more accessible, and more detailed accents can be added to clothing and fabric.
Gathering DIY Projects
When creating a DIY project from fabric, gathering can create additional texture and details. If a pleated dress or skirt is desired, measuring and cutting the fabric correctly is necessary for the desired look. By cutting the fabric 4 to 6 times the desired waist size, it’s possible to create dramatic pleats with just a few gathers.
Creating pleated projects also requires additional seam allowance, as the pleats make sewing easier and more comfortable to wear. Additionally, pleats can be created in other ways, such as creating a center seam or a button-up front. Both of these will help to create more pleats and more shape.
Custom Gathers And Pleats
For further customization, there are several other items to use when gathering fabric. Utilizing videos and tutorials, experimenting with different materials, and using shirring elastic can create many novel and intricate pleated designs. These pleats or gathers can be further enhanced by using hems, bands, or piping to give a more structure to any project.
Shirring elastic can be used to create targeted pleats and help fabric gather to form a more fitted look. This elastic is lightweight, strong, and easy to use as a thread is looped between the gathers. With shirring elastic, it’s important to test its resilience with a swatch fabric to make sure the elastic won’t break or tear when stretching or pulling the garment.
Making Gathered Fabric Last
When taking the time to gather fabric, it’s important to make sure it lasts. Taking care of pleats and gathers is essential if they should remain unpuckers. To do so, it’s necessary to always handwash pleated materials and hang them up to dry when possible. Ironing pleats and gathers should always be done on a low setting with a damp pressing cloth.
Finally, when gathering fabric for a DIY project, it’s best to choose a fabric that meets the needed criteria. With the proper fabric, hand tools and hand-gathered techniques, it is possible to create a fullness that can’t be matched with a sewing machine and store-bought fabric.
