Outlining the Necessary Tools
Gathering material on a sewing machine is made easier with the right tools. First and foremost, a gathering foot is essential, as it holds two layers of fabric together to be sewn. This prevents fabric from shifting while sewing and makes it easier to sew at a consistent rate. Thimble-finger gripping tools, scissors and pins of various sizes, thread clippers, fabric markers and a tailor’s ham are all useful tools to have on hand. Having the right tools can make all the difference when sewing.
Preparing
Before starting to gather material on a sewing machine, it’s important to prepare the fabric. All flaws that can be detected should be removed, including any stains, tears, or fabric pulls. Lint, dirt and thread should also be removed with a lint brush prior to sewing.
Fabric should be placed lengthwise on a flat surface and pinned in place with rounded-tip pins. If the fabric is stretchy, perpendicular lines should be marked with a fabric marker to prevent the fabric from shifting or warping. Iron the fabric, if needed.
Assembling
Adjacent pieces of fabric should be brought together. To gather the material, sew two lines of stitch on the right side of the fabric, leaving long thread tails. When the thread is pulled, the machine will make tiny gathers in the fabric, creating a ruffled look. Adjust the length of the stitch to determine the size of the gathers. The farther away the stitch lengths are, the bigger the gathered look.
The two lines of stitch should be placed in the same location and line up with each other. This ensures even gathers. Make sure to leave the same length of thread tails for each section of the fabric for a consistent look. After the gathering is complete, thread the lines together, tying the thread tails in knots.
Types of Gathering
There are two main types of gathering: basic gathering and French Knot gathering. With basic gathering, the fabric layers are laid side-by-side and gathered with a single line of stitch, then secured with a knot. For French Knot gathering, the fabric is layered on top of one another, then the top layer is folded to the side and secured with a small French knot. Both types of gathering work well and create beautiful finished products.
It’s important to remember that gathering is not necessarily the same as pleating. Pleating involves pressing a smooth, even fold into the fabric. If pleating is desired, it should be done prior to gathering.
Tips for Successful Gathering
For successful gathering, use high quality thread of the same weight, color and texture as the fabric. Low quality thread can easily be seen through thinner fabric, and the fabric can tear when gathering. It’s also important to use a slightly longer stitch length, as a regular stitch length can stretch the fabric and the gathers may become uneven.
Problem-Solving Methods
Sometimes, despite all the preparations, something can go wrong. When the gathers are not intersecting correctly and the gathered fabric does not look even, it’s time to consult the experts. Sewing professionals know how to find out what’s causing the problem and how to fix it. They can offer valuable advice and tips on how to improve the gathering process on any type of fabric.
Size Matters
Using the right size needle is an important factor in successful gathering. In general, use a size 80/12 or 90/14 needle for lightweight and medium weight fabrics, or a size 100/16 for heavier fabrics. Needles with a larger eye are best for sewing with heavier threads, whereas needles with smaller eyes are for finer threads.
The Fuss
Gathering material on a sewing machine entails a certain level of fuss. Although it is a longer process compared to other sewing techniques, the results are worth the effort. With patience and attention to detail, one can easily and successfully gather any type of fabric, be it a chiffon, tulle, velvet, or corduroy.
The Requirements
No matter what material one is working with, a sewing machine equipped with a gathering foot is necessary. It is also important to select proper needles, pay attention to thread and fabric weight, and to mark and press the fabric prior to sewing. If done correctly, gathering fabric on a sewing machine can produce beautiful results.
Summary
Gathering material on a sewing machine is not as difficult as it may seem so long as one is prepared and uses the correct tools. With patience and attention to detail, successfully gathering fabric of any type is entirely possible. Having the right set of tools such as gathering feet, scissors, pins, thread clippers, fabric markers, and tailor’s ham, as well as knowledge of stitching and gathering techniques, can help ensure quality work.
