Basics of Gathering Fabric on a Sewing Machine
Gathering fabric is one of the most basic and important techniques in sewing. Gathering means bringing together fabric along a single line to form a narrow, concentrated shape and usually involves stretching the fabric or using pleats or tucks to create bridges of fabric between one part of the garment and the other.
Gathering fabric and stitching it can be done by hand or with a sewing machine. For beginners, it is best to stick with a sewing machine because it will give you the most accuracy and speed. To confidently master the technique, there are several things that you should not only know about gathering, but also have the ability to do without making mistakes.
First, you should ensure that you are stitching your gathers with the longest stitch length available on your sewing machine. A longer stitch will enable you to evenly distribute the stitches, giving a neat and even look to your gathers. Secondly, you should use a gathering foot to stitch the gathers. A gathering foot helps to feed the different layers at different speeds and allows you to create even gathers.
Thirdly, you should pin the material together before sewing. Pinning the two fabric layers together will help ensure that the gathers are evenly distributed, and that the fabric is not stretched out or stretched too much when the thread is tugged to create the gathers. When pinning, be sure to not pin too close to the edge or it will be difficult to stitch correctly.
Fourth, you should use a slightly thicker thread and needle than usual. As the thread is pulled to gather, any weak or thin thread is likely to break, particularly if the gathering needs to be tied off or knotted. Thicker thread helps to provide additional strength and durability to the gathering.
And lastly, when tugging the thread to make the gathers, you should be gentle and careful, but at the same time, be firm enough to create the folds and bridges in the fabric. Incorrect gathering can result in a sloppy, unfinished look and can cause the seams to break or shift.
Hidden Support: Using Cotton Tape To Create Stable Gathers
Adding an extra hidden layer of support to the gathers can give your gathers a more professional, polished look and will also help to keep the gathers locked in place more securely. To do this, you can use sew-in cotton tape. Cotton tape will create support and also help to firmly hold the gathers in place.
When using cotton tape, it is best to measure the amount of tape needed for the gathers. You can do this by wrapping the tape around the fabric several times and then cutting it to the desired length. Once the tape is cut to the right length, you can then pin it in place, being sure not to pin it too close to the sewing line. Then, when stitching, keep an eye on the cotton tape and make sure that it doesn’t get tangled in the seam while sewing.
Once the gathering is complete and the cotton tape is securely in place, you can then tug the fabric and the gathers will stay firm and stable. This is because the cotton tape is supporting the fabric and stops it from shifting or breaking. The cotton tape will also support the gathers when the garment is worn and won’t bunch up or shift over time.
Making Pleated Gathers
Another useful technique for gathering fabric is making pleated gathers. Pleated gathers are created by pinning the fabric in pleats and then stitching the pleats in place. The pleats will add texture and adroitness to your garment and can add a unique visual element.
When making pleated gathers, you should ensure that the pleats are evenly spaced and that they are sewn with the right stitch length. It is best to use a small stitch length of around one millimeter, as this will help to create even pleats. To ensure that the pleats are even, you can pin them to a piece of paper or cardboard and then use the pins as a guide when knitting the pleats.
You should also use a slightly thicker thread when making pleated gathers, as this will help to securely hold the pleats in place. When tugging the pleats, be sure to tug gently until the pleats are evenly distributed. Once the pleats are evenly distributed, use your fingers to flatten any bumps and creases. Then, secure the pleats by stitching along the seam line, following the pleats.
Creating Ruching with Elastic Thread
If you are looking for a way to add dimension, fullness and an intricate design, elastic thread is the way to go. Elastic thread can be used to create ruching, which is a gathering technique where fabric is gathered with elastic thread to create a textured, fullness effect.
When creating ruching, be sure to use the right type of elastic thread. Elastic thread is available in various colors, thicknesses, and different rigidity and stretch properties. You should choose an elastic thread that is appropriate for the fabric you are working with. Too thick an elastic thread could cause puckering, too thin and it won’t give you the desired effect.
Before stitching, secure the ends of the elastic thread with a few small stitches to keep it secure while stitching. Once the elastic thread is in place, stitch the ruching design and pull the bobbin thread to gather the fabric. Then, adjust the gathers to your desired style and secure with a few more stitches.
When stitching the ruching, use a high-quality, fine thread that is the same color as the fabric. This will help to hide the gathering stitches and gives a more polished, professional look to the garment.
Working With Wrong-Side Gathers
Wrong-side gathers, also known as French gathers, are gathering stitches that are done from the wrong side of the fabric. This technique is used to give a softer, more natural look, with the gathers being concealed on the inside of the garment. This technique is usually used for more lightweight or delicate fabrics and is considered a more advanced gathering technique.
When using wrong-side gathers, you should attach a presser foot that is suitable for gathering. This will allow you to easily feed the fabric while stitching the gathers. When stitching, you should use a wide stitch length to ensure that the gathers won’t pucker or bunch up when the thread is tugged. Also, be sure to use thicker thread, as this will ensure the strength of the gathering.
For best results, you should start stitching the gathering at one end, and gradually work your way down the fabric until it is all gathered up. When tugging the thread, you should be gentle, but firm, and make sure that the gathers are evenly distributed before tying off the knot. This will help to keep the gathers in place and will prevent them from puckering or shifting.
Gathering With a Serger
Another great way to gather fabric is with a serger. To do this, you should use a gathering foot, which will guide your fabric easily through the serger and will help to ensure that the gathers are evenly distributed. You should also use a slightly thicker thread when gathering with a serger, as the thread will be pulled tight when the fabric passes through the machine.
When gathering with a serger, you should make sure that the knife is not engaged and that the differential feed is well adjusted. This will help to increase the stability of the gathers and will avoid puckering and bunching up of the threads. Also, avoid pulling the fabric too tightly, as this can cause the threads to break or shift.
Start stitching from the end that has the most gathers and gradually ease the fabric through the machine. As the gathering progresses, check the fabric regularly to make sure that there are no loose threads or gaps in the gathers. Once all the fabric is gathered, tie off the thread and tug the fabric gently to ensure that the gathers are even.
Making Shirring
Shirring is a unique gathering technique in which a pattern of small pleats is created by gathering several rows of stitches together. This technique is mainly used when creating sleeves, gathered skirts, and fitted bodices.
When making shirring, use a narrow stitch, around two millimeters. This will enable you to create even, delicate pleats. Also, use a thick thread and be sure to provide adequate support to the fabric as this will help to keep the pleats in place.
Start stitching from one end and gradually inch up the fabric. When the shirring is complete, tug the threads gently to even out the pleats and shape the gathers. Then, secure the shirring by stitching along the seam lines, following the pleats.
Using Gathers To Add Volume
Gathering is a great way to add volume to a garment. This is done by simply stitching gathers along the excess fabric to create a fuller look.
When gathering fabric to add volume, use a longer stitch length and a thick thread to ensure that the gathers are evenly distributed. Start by gathering one side and then working your way down. Be sure to evenly distribute the gathers and use your fingers to flatter any bumps or creases.
Once you are done gathering, tie the threads and tug the gathers gently. This will help to create a puffy and full look. Also, make sure that the gathers are not too tight, as this could cause the fabric to pucker or the seams to break when worn.
Adding High-Fashion Details With Gathering
Gathering is not just a technique used for basic stitching, but can also be used to add high-fashion details to garments. Gradient gathers, for example, are created by gradually easing the stitching to make larger or tighter gathers.
Pin tucks and pleated gathers are other techniques used for creating high-fashion details. This can be done by pinning pleats in place and then stitching it to the fabric, or by making pin tucks, which are small pleats that can be made on the outside of the garment.
Famous labels such as Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, and Chanel often create unique gathering techniques and use them to add intricate details to their garments. Whether you’re a beginner or a professional, gathering is a great way to add height-fashion details to everyday garments.
Ruffles and Flounces
Ruffles and flounces are creating using gathering techniques and are particularly popular for evening wear, cocktail dresses, and wedding gown
