How To Guide Fabric Through Sewing Machine

We all know how important sewing is when it comes to creating clothing, accessories or home decor! But guiding fabric through a sewing machine can sometimes feel intimidating. Fortunately, with the help of a few simple tips and tools, you can become an expert in no time.
Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned sewist, read on to learn the best methods for fabric manipulation.

1. Choose the Right Needle

Your sewing machine needle is your most important tool. The right needle will easily penetrate the fabric and keep it intact while stitching. For different materials and projects, you’ll need a variety of needles.
Universal needles are the most common type and work well with a variety of fabrics. But they can quickly dull if used on a single fabric. Choose specific types like quilting, denim, and leather needles for more durable and longer-lasting stitches.
The right needle size is just as important. Generally, a lighter weight fabric needs a smaller-sized needle. Heavier fabrics, like leather or canvas, require a needle size of 90/14. Making sure your needle is the correct size and type for the fabric you are using can go a long way in producing accurate results.

2. Use Steam

Steaming your fabric is a great way to avoid puckering, fabric shrinkage, or other unwanted issues. You can use a handheld steamer or an iron to heat the fabric, which helps to reduce the tension.
When steaming, move the tool in a slow and consistent motion, producing enough steam to iron out any creases or wrinkles. For delicate fabrics, hold the steamer a few inches away. This allows the steam to penetrate into the fabric without being too hot.
Using a steamer or iron also adds structure and stability to your fabric, making it easier to sew. But, be careful not to press too hard and damage the material.

3. Pinning and Basting

Before sewing a garment, you’ll need to join several fabric pieces together. This is when pinning or basting come in handy.
Pinning is the process of securing fabric pieces together with pins. You can use straight pins or safety pins, depending on the project. Pinning helps keep the fabric in place and avoids unwanted shifting of the material during sewing.
Basting is another form of temporary stitching. It involves sewing the layers of fabric together so they don’t move while sewing. Basting helps to ensure a secure and even stitch, while providing enough flexibility when guiding fabric through the machine.

4. Use the Presser Foot

A presser foot is a tool attached to your sewing machine, often made of metal or plastic. The stem of the foot helps to keep the fabric securely in place while stitching and pushes the material in a straight line.
By using a presser foot, you can easily move the fabric under the machine’s needle. This allows for more control and a smoother, straighter stitch.
There are several different presser feet to choose from, like the roller foot, quilting foot, or walking foot. Different feet are designed for different projects, so you can find the perfect one for your fabric manipulation needs.

5. Plan Your Stitches

Planning your stitches ahead of time is another great way to avoid mistakes and make sure your projects are completed properly. Lay out the fabric and measure it to be sure your seams and hems are even.
If you’re making a garment, use a seam guide to sew the desired seam allowance. For a more professional finish, make a backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.
A seam ripper is also an important tool to have on hand. It allows you to quickly and easily remove any unwanted stitches.

6. Practice

The best way to perfect your fabric manipulation skills is practice! As with any skill, practice makes perfect when it comes to successful sewing. Don’t worry if you make mistakes—they can be a great learning experience.
Start with smaller projects like bags or pillows and gradually move onto larger projects like dresses or jackets. Check stitch fit and fabric control after every few stitches so you can make corrections.
For a more in-depth look at fabric manipulation, consider taking a class or online workshop. With the right guidance, you’ll soon be an expert in no time!

7. Use Heavy Duty Threads

When you need a high-impact look, opt for thicker or heavier threads. They provide more stability and enable smoother stitches. Heavier threads are most often used for fabrics like leather or felt, as they have more weight and tension than lighter fabrics.
While regular polyester or cotton threads are generally adequate for most fabrics, consider using heavier-duty threads for intricate designs. Heavy-duty threads come in many types, like polyester, poly-cotton, and silk.
Be sure to select a thread of the right size and weight for your fabric. Thick threads require larger needle sizes, while thinner threads need a needle size that’s smaller.

8. Switch to a Maching Needle

When stitching heavy fabrics, like faux fur, you may want to consider switching to a maching needle. Maching needles are specifically designed for difficult fabrics and create a professional finish.
Maching needles have a larger eye and groove, allowing them to easily grab the thread and weave through the fabric. They also have a sharper tip for easy piercing. Plus, they create a more consistent thread tension, which helps to reduce skipped stitches.
If you’re working with a bulky fabric or have difficulty moving the fabric under the machine, then a maching needle is the perfect solution!

9. Use Adhesive Tape

Adhesive tape is an essential tool for guiding fabric through a sewing machine. It’s used to stabilise and support different parts of the fabric while stitching.
You can either use double-sided adhesive basting tape or fabric fusible adhesive. Both provide a secure bond to the fabric, helping to keep the fabric under control.
If the adhesive tape is too sticky, you can use a Teflon presser foot. This will help prevent the material and fabric from sticking to the foot.

10. Use a Walking Foot

A walking foot is a great tool to have when manipulating fabric through a sewing machine. It attaches to the machine’s feed dogs, helping the fabric to move more smoothly under the needle.
The evenly dispersed pressure from a walking foot also helps to reduce problems like skipped stitches and puckering. Even better, it’s specially designed for thicker fabrics like leather, vinyl, and multiple layers of denim.
So the next time you’re faced with a tough fabric manipulation project, make sure to grab your walking foot for perfect results every time.

Geoffrey Kirby is an experienced author and sewist who has been creating sewn projects for over 20 years. He has a passion for teaching beginners and inspiring more advanced sewists both online and through his writings. Outside of writing about sewing, Geoffrey loves to explore new techniques and styles of sewing that incorporate upcycling fabric remnants into sweet items with personality.

Leave a Comment