Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned sewist, read on to learn the best methods for fabric manipulation.
1. Choose the Right Needle
Universal needles are the most common type and work well with a variety of fabrics. But they can quickly dull if used on a single fabric. Choose specific types like quilting, denim, and leather needles for more durable and longer-lasting stitches.
The right needle size is just as important. Generally, a lighter weight fabric needs a smaller-sized needle. Heavier fabrics, like leather or canvas, require a needle size of 90/14. Making sure your needle is the correct size and type for the fabric you are using can go a long way in producing accurate results.
2. Use Steam
When steaming, move the tool in a slow and consistent motion, producing enough steam to iron out any creases or wrinkles. For delicate fabrics, hold the steamer a few inches away. This allows the steam to penetrate into the fabric without being too hot.
Using a steamer or iron also adds structure and stability to your fabric, making it easier to sew. But, be careful not to press too hard and damage the material.
3. Pinning and Basting
Pinning is the process of securing fabric pieces together with pins. You can use straight pins or safety pins, depending on the project. Pinning helps keep the fabric in place and avoids unwanted shifting of the material during sewing.
Basting is another form of temporary stitching. It involves sewing the layers of fabric together so they don’t move while sewing. Basting helps to ensure a secure and even stitch, while providing enough flexibility when guiding fabric through the machine.
4. Use the Presser Foot
By using a presser foot, you can easily move the fabric under the machine’s needle. This allows for more control and a smoother, straighter stitch.
There are several different presser feet to choose from, like the roller foot, quilting foot, or walking foot. Different feet are designed for different projects, so you can find the perfect one for your fabric manipulation needs.
5. Plan Your Stitches
If you’re making a garment, use a seam guide to sew the desired seam allowance. For a more professional finish, make a backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam.
A seam ripper is also an important tool to have on hand. It allows you to quickly and easily remove any unwanted stitches.
6. Practice
Start with smaller projects like bags or pillows and gradually move onto larger projects like dresses or jackets. Check stitch fit and fabric control after every few stitches so you can make corrections.
For a more in-depth look at fabric manipulation, consider taking a class or online workshop. With the right guidance, you’ll soon be an expert in no time!
7. Use Heavy Duty Threads
While regular polyester or cotton threads are generally adequate for most fabrics, consider using heavier-duty threads for intricate designs. Heavy-duty threads come in many types, like polyester, poly-cotton, and silk.
Be sure to select a thread of the right size and weight for your fabric. Thick threads require larger needle sizes, while thinner threads need a needle size that’s smaller.
8. Switch to a Maching Needle
Maching needles have a larger eye and groove, allowing them to easily grab the thread and weave through the fabric. They also have a sharper tip for easy piercing. Plus, they create a more consistent thread tension, which helps to reduce skipped stitches.
If you’re working with a bulky fabric or have difficulty moving the fabric under the machine, then a maching needle is the perfect solution!
9. Use Adhesive Tape
You can either use double-sided adhesive basting tape or fabric fusible adhesive. Both provide a secure bond to the fabric, helping to keep the fabric under control.
If the adhesive tape is too sticky, you can use a Teflon presser foot. This will help prevent the material and fabric from sticking to the foot.
10. Use a Walking Foot
The evenly dispersed pressure from a walking foot also helps to reduce problems like skipped stitches and puckering. Even better, it’s specially designed for thicker fabrics like leather, vinyl, and multiple layers of denim.
So the next time you’re faced with a tough fabric manipulation project, make sure to grab your walking foot for perfect results every time.