Overview
Learning how to hem a dress without the use of a sewing machine can seem like a daunting task, but once you understand the process, it can be easier than you think. Hemming without a sewing machine is a skill that can come in handy when you want to make a quick alteration to your garment, such as raising the hemline on a skirt or shortening a pair of trousers. Many people may not even consider the possibility of hemming without a sewing machine, but it’s actually quite doable and can save you a lot of time and money.
Tools Needed
The tools required for hemming without a sewing machine are relatively basic. You will need a pair of sharp scissors, a fabric marker, needle-nose pliers, tailor’s chalk, and an iron. It is also useful to have some safety pins or a basting stictch if your fabric is thin or prone to fraying.
Preparing the Fabric
Before you begin, make sure the fabric is clean and dry, as you don’t want to be ironing a wet garment. If you’re hemming a skirt or dress, sew a one-eighth inch (1/8″) seam along the raw edge. This will help keep the fabric from fraying as you work. Then, lay the garment out flat and measure the desired hemline. Mark this line with a fabric marker or tailor’s chalk.
Folding the Hem
Next, fold the excess fabric up at the marked line, making sure that it is even all the way around. Toy with the amount of fabric, if necessary, to get the best fit. Secure the fold with safety pins or a basting stitch. Iron the fold to set it in place. If you’re using safety pins, be sure to remove them before you begin hemming.
Creating the Hem
The best way to create a hem without a sewing machine is to use a zigzag stitch. Cut a piece of thin thread that is several inches longer than the length of the hem. Starting at one end of the hem, use needle-nose pliers to pull the thread through the fold from the wrong side to the right side. Pull the thread until it is taught, and then start making small, even stitches in a zigzag pattern until you reach the other end of the hem. Make sure the stitches are close enough that you can’t see the fabric when you pull the thread taut.
Caring for the Hem
Once the hem is finished, press it with a hot iron to set the stitches and make them as invisible as possible. You may even want to press a damp cloth over the hem to make the stitches even more difficult to detect. Then, trim the thread, leaving a 1/4 inch (0,6 cm) tail. Finally, put the garment in the wash to set the hem and remove any remaining chalk or fabric marker.
Alternative Hemming Methods
Although hand-stitching is the most common way to hem without a sewing machine, there are some alternative methods you can use if you don’t want to stitch. Liquid hemming tape can be purchased at most fabric stores and is used to adhere the hem to the garment. Heat-activated hemming tape, such as Heat ‘n Bond, works the same way, only you must use a hot iron to adhere it.
Tips for Hemming Without a Sewing Machine
Hemming without a sewing machine can be challenging, so it’s important to take your time and focus on creating even, tight stitches. You may want to practice on a scrap piece of fabric before tackling your garment. When hemming with a hand stitch, remember to keep your stitches short and even. Also, be sure to remove all pins and basting stitches before beginning the hand stitch. Finally, don’t forget to press the hem after you’re finished in order to get the best results.
Using Fusible Hemming Tape
Fusible hemming tape is a great option when you don’t have a sewing machine available. It is applied using an iron and is easy to use. Just like hand-sewn hems, fusible hems should be pressed with a hot iron after they are applied. If you’re using a fusible hemming tape, be sure to read the instructions for application and care instructions carefully.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Hemming without a sewing machine is an excellent skill to have as it allows you to quickly and easily make alterations to your garments. However, hand stitched hems can look messy and often don’t hold up as well as machine-sewn hems. Fusible hems look more professional, but they can be difficult to remove if you make a mistake. Additionally, some fabrics don’t hold well to fusible hemming tapes, so be sure to test it on a scrap piece of fabric first.
Fabric Choice
When hemming without a sewing machine, you must take fabric choice into consideration. Lightweight fabrics are the easiest to work with, while heavier fabrics may require a sewing machine to get a professional finish. Certain fabrics, such as knit or velvet, are very difficult to hem without a machine. If you find yourself needing to alter a garment made from a difficult fabric, it is best to visit a tailor or take it to a seamstress.
