Hem Chiffon with Sewing Machine
Chiffon is a delicate fabric, usually made from fine and sheer synthetic fibers. When sewing, the most important factor is to ensure that the fabric is handled with care, as it is prone to damage from friction and pulling. Sewing a hem on chiffon can be a tricky task. As the fabric is lightweight and slips easily, more attention and time should be taken when sewing the hem. What makes matters worse is that, in order to maintain the high quality and soft hand feel of the fabric, the hem must also be finished very delicately. Because of these challenges, hemming chiffon is not suitable for beginners. Even experienced sewers need to take extra care and patience when tackling this delicate sewing project.
Wash and Iron the Fabric
Before hemming chiffon, it is important to prepare the fabric in the correct manner. It is recommended to wash the fabric in cool or lukewarm water and air dry it. Ironing helps to press the fabric and also flatten it for easy handling. After washing, the necessary length of the fabric should first be measured before cutting. In order to ensure that the hem is the correct size, it is best to add an extra 2 centimetres to the required length measurement. The correct length will ensure that the hem is not too big or too small.
Maintain Tension
The next step is to thread the needle. When it comes to delicate fabrics, it is important to choose a thinner needle as it penetrates the fabric more easily. A good quality thread should also be used. Once the needle is threaded, the fabric should be placed beneath the presser foot of the sewing machine with the wrong side facing up. This allows the bobbin thread to form the hemline. Keeping a steady tension on the fabric ensures that the hem is formed properly. This can be done by increasing the pressure of the presser foot by moving the wheel of the sewing machine.
Stitch the Hem
Begin stitching the hem of the chiffon fabric from the wrong side. As the fabric is prone to fraying, it is important to start the stitching from a minimum of five centimetres from the edge. It is best to hold the fabric taut when stitching. Regularly check the stitching to ensure that it is going straight and no pleats are forming. If ironing before stitching, the fabric’s edges will be easier to press flat as they have already been flattened.
Choose an Appropriate Seam Finish
When hemming chiffon, it is best to avoid any seam finishes that will add bulk to the delicate fabric. It is best to choose one of the hemming seams that does not contain bulky folds or pleats. One of the most commonly used hemming seams for chiffon is the rolled-hem finish. This is the most suitable for a lightweight fabric like chiffon, as it does not involve a lot of bulk. It is best to consult a detailed hemming guide before attempting this technique. However, if the desired hem cannot be achieved with one of the available seams, a zig zag seam or a blind hem could be used.
Stabilise the Hem
Securing the hem is an important step of the process. To prevent the hem from slipping and prevent fraying, the edges of the fabric have to be stabilised. Heat-fusible hem tape is an ideal stabilising solution, as it bonds the hem while adding no bulk. The tape consists of two layers: a paper-backed sheet of adhesive and a heat-activated adhesive. First, the adhesive sheet should be applied then activated with an iron on low heat. After the adhesive is applied, the edges of the fabric should be pressed flat with an iron to achieve a finished look.
Tacking the Hem
Tacking is a technique that helps to ensure that the hem is stable before using the sewing machine. To tack the hem of a chiffon fabric, small stitches should be done by hand. The tacking should be done along the entire length of the hem, but should not be seen from the right side of the fabric. Once the tacking is done, the edge of the fabric should be flattened and checked to ensure that the tacking has penetrated both layers of the fabric.
Pressing the Hem
Flat pressing the hem is an important step in ensuring a good finish. Ironing the hem of chiffon helps to keep it flat while adding stiffness. High quality steam irons can be used to press the hem of chiffon fabrics. When ironing, care must be taken, as chiffon fabric is delicate and can easily be damaged with too much heat.
Testing the Stitching
Before taking the fabric off the sewing machine, every stitch should be tested to ensure that the hem has been properly stitched. This should be done by pulling the thread toward the wrong side of the fabric. If a pleat is formed, it means that the stitching was not done correctly. The thread should be removed and the stitching redone if necessary.
Unpicking the Hem
Unpicking the hem of the chiffon fabric is usually unavoidable. When doing so, the seam should be held taut to prevent the chiffon from stretching. It is best to use a rayon or silk thread for this task as it has a soft texture that will not damage the fabric.
Adding Embellishments
Depending on the project, the hem of chiffon fabrics can be embellished with beads, sequins, embroidery or lace. While different embellishments add an ornate and alluring look to the hem, they can also be difficult to attach, as chiffon fabric is slippery. Hand sewing is the most ideal way to attach embellishments as it ensures no damage to the fabric. When hand-stitching the embellishment, it is important to use a needle small enough to pierce the fabric without leaving holes.
Finishing Touches
After the hem has been attached, the area should be checked for any loose threads. If any are present, they should be cut or hidden. Chiffon fabric is usually finished by hand, however finger pressing can also be used. Lastly, the hem should be examined to ensure that it is flat and of the correct length.
Extreme Care When Working with Chiffon
When working with chiffon fabric, it is important to take special care. If the fabric is not handled with such care, it can easily fray or be damaged. The same can be said for sewing a hem on chiffon. It is a delicate yet challenging task, and requires extra time, patience and attention. In order to achieve the best results, it is important to pay attention to every step of the process, from pre-washing and ironing the fabric to finishing the hem.
Maintaining Appropriate Speed
When hemming chiffon fabric with a sewing machine, it is best to maintain an appropriate speed. Sewing at a constant slow speed helps to ensure that the stitches are even. A fast speed may cause hastiness and result in pleated or loose stitches. Additionally, stitching too close to the edges may also cause fraying, so it is important to keep a certain distance when working on the hem.
Starch as a Good Alternative
Starching is a good alternative to ironing when working with chiffon. It helps to keep the fabric flat and is much gentler on the fabric. A starch spray can be used to moisten the fabric before pressing. This process helps to add stiffness, so that the fabric does not slip while hemming.
Press Cloth is Crucial
It is essential to use a press cloth when working with chiffon fabric. A press cloth is a thin piece of cloth that should be placed between the iron and the fabric. This is to ensure that the temperature of the iron does not damage the fabric. The press cloth will also prevent water from touching the fabric as this can cause staining and fading.
