Introduction
Hemming is an essential part of being a menswear enthusiast. Not only does it add a touch of fashion to your outfit, but it also helps to make sure your pants fit perfectly. Commonly, pants are pre-hemmed in stores and are ready to wear. However, stores often provide overly long pants to accommodate different heights, making them look a little unpolished and baggy. In this article, we’ll discuss how to hem mens dress pants with a sewing machine; outlining the supplies needed, teaching you the various techniques, and also adding in some insider tips.
Gathering Your Supplies
Before you begin doing the hems yourself, you’ll need to have the correct supplies to get the job done.
The first essential is a sewing machine. If you’re certain that you plan to do a lot of hemming, investing in a machine of quality is worth the cost. However, for the casual sewer, renting or borrowing a machine is also a good option.
The next key item you’ll need is the thread. Opt for a thread colour that matches the colour of your trousers, or as close as possible. Trying to match the exact colour and weave of your pants will make it look more professional when you’re done.
You’ll also need a pair of scissors and a measuring tape. Chalk or fabric pens, though not essential, will also come in handy when marking and cutting the pants.
The Steps to Hemming Dress Pants
The steps to hemming mens dress pants are fairly simple. The general technique is to determine the desired length of the trouser, trim them to the right size, and then make a hem.
To begin, the first step is to try on the pants. Measure the desired length using the measuring tape and make a visual mark. To make sure the hem is even and symmetrical, compare the inside and outside seams of each leg and adjust to be the same.
With your pants still on, it is time to cut off the excess fabric. Keep in mind that it’s always better to have extra fabric than have it come up too short. Then use a pen or chalk to mark a line one inch below where the hem should be. Take the pants off and lay them flat, then cut through the line you just drew with the scissors or fabric cutter.
The next step is to hem the pants. The most common way involves having two folds on the inside edge and one fold on the outside. The two inner folds should measure one and a quarter inch and the outer fold should measure half an inch. Use a basting stitch to hold the hem before moving on to the final step.
Securing the Hem with Your Sewing Machine
After the basting stitch is done, you’ll then need to secure the hem with the sewing machine. To make sure the hem is even and secure, use the presser foot that comes with the machine. This will help when it comes time to do the topstitch.
In the topstitch, your goal should be to create an even, zig zag stitch. To achieve this, adjust the stitch length from the number three to the number five. Use a straight stitch as you work your way around the hem.
When you’re done, press the hem with an iron to flatten any wrinkled areas. Those who have access to a steam iron can use it for a really professional looking finish.
Insider Tips
Once you’ve mastered the basics of hemming dress pants, here are some tips to take your pants to the next level:
For a traditional and formal look, consider adding cuffs to your pants. This requires extra fabric, but if done right, it will add some panache and personality to your outfit.
Hand-stitching is also an option, though it can take more time and expertise to get the hem just right.
Another important tip when it comes to hemming is to never use a patterned fabric. Patterns tend to be asymmetrical and difficult to work with, so stick to plain fabric when doing any kind of alterations.
Hemming Dark-Coloured Pants
When it comes to hems and dark-coloured pants, there are a few extra steps to keep in mind. First and foremost, press the fabric before you begin. This will remove wrinkles and help you to make sure that your finished product has a nice polished look.
When it comes to thread, use a similar-coloured sewing thread, or a much darker one. This is to prevent the thread from showing when you’re finished.
Stay away from batting, stuffing, and interfacing when it comes to dark fabric. These can easily be seen, making your hem look sloppy and unfinished.
Hemming Light-Coloured Pants
When it comes to light-coloured fabric, there are a few extra precautions to take. First and foremost, avoid using a heavy needle. The weight of the needle can damage the fabric and make it look rough and unkempt. Try opting for a lighter needle when sewing lighter fabric.
For thread, opt for a colour that is as close to the fabric colour as possible. This will help the finished product look polished and virtually unnoticeable.
Additionally, use matching-colour or clear interfacing or interfacing tapes. These tapes help to keep the shape of the hem, ensuring that the hem looks neat and tidy.
Hemming Synthetic Materials
When it comes to hemming synthetic fabrics like polyester and nylon, you should first determine the type of fibre. Different fibres require different approaches.
For instance, polyester requires a lower temperature setting than cotton or linen and should be treated more gently. Use a lower stitch speed and a thinner needle when hemming polyester to avoid any damage to the fabric.
Nylon fabrics, on the other hand, are not as delicate as polyester. However, because of its delicate nature, you should still be gentle and use a lighter needle and lower stitch speed.
Hemming With an Overlocker
The overlocker is a great device for those who want a really clean finish for their hems. However, using an overlocker has its own set of challenges.
The first step with this method is to mark the length of the hem. Use a fabric pen or chalk to make sure the hem is even on both legs.
Next, set up the tension knobs on the overlocker. To create a beautiful, professional-looking finish, it’s best to use a two-thread chain stitch with the differential feed set at its lowest.
Using the side guide, feed the raw edge of the fabric through the overlocker. The side guide should be set at the same length of your desired hem. As you make your way around, use the hand wheel instead of the foot pedal for more control.
Once you’re done, press the hem using a light steam iron. This will help to remove any unwanted wrinkles.
Ending Notes
As you have learned from this article, hemming mens dress pants with a sewing machine is straightforward and relatively easy to do. With a few essential supplies, some patience and practice, you can get a perfect fit that looks like it was done professionally.
