Instructions for Hemming Pants with a Sewing Machine
Learning how to use a sewing machine to hem your own pants or jeans is a great skill to learn as a seamstress or tailor. It is a lot easier, faster, and less expensive than taking your gowns to a professional. Plus, by mastering how a sewing machine works, you will be able to make other clothing items, as well.
To begin, gather the items you will need: scissors, a tape measure, thread, pins, a tailor’s chalk, an iron, a pair of pants or jeans, an adjustable sewing machine, and a sewing needle. Before you begin, it is a good idea to practice with fabric to get a feel for the process.
Measure the desired length of the pants and mark the area with a tailor’s chalk. A good rule of thumb is to make sure you measure from the inside of the pants, and not the floor. To ensure a neat hemming finish, the distance between the two chalk lines should be a minimum of 1/2 inch long.
To hold the pieces together, use pins so that the edges of the fabric are properly aligned. Taking the fabric off the machine, press it using the iron. Be sure to use the lowest heat setting on your iron so you do not melt the fabric. Next, removing the pins and positioning the fabric underneath the presser foot, line the bottom of the fabric edge with the presser foot opening.
Start the machine and slowly as the needle moves, with the tread of your chosen color, sew the edges together. Make sure to leave a one-inch gap from the edge. After your complete the required distance, remove the fabric from the machine.
Turn the fabric so you can see the wrong side and fold the extra piece of fabric inwards. Sew the remaining edge together. The visible part of the sewing should be very close to the edge, in order to create a neat finish.
To finish, press the hem flat with the iron, and if you want to, you can trim off any extra fabric left.
Other Hemming Tips
When using a sewing machine, make sure it is properly adjusted. It should be flat against the table and securely mounted. Using a long presser foot is also recommended; a 7/8 inch presser foot is a good choice for hemming pants and jeans.
Also be sure to use the correct setting on the machine for the fabric your are using. Denim jeans require a higher tension than lightweight fabrics, for example. Being familiar with your machine’s settings is key to hemming pants properly.
It is helpful to practice sewing with a denim material such as an old pair of jeans to master the technique before attempting to sew on fabric with more stitches and a more complicated hem.
For more intricate designs and curling designs, which are great for special types of jeans, it is essential to use the specialized hemming attachments. This ensures the fabric stays secure and sews neatly.
Pressing Tips
Pressing is just as important as stitching when hemming clothes. To keep the edges neat and prevent them from fraying, press the seam with a hot iron for few seconds. Pressing is also very important if your fabric stretches easily, as this will keep the hem in place and make sure it looks straight.
Make sure to always use a proper pressing cloth or a damp piece of fabric while pressing the hem, as the hot iron can leave marks and damage the fabric underneath. Always use a low heat setting to avoid this.
Using a steam iron makes pressing easier, and it will seal the hem together better. When using a steam iron, make sure to keep the iron away from the hem as it can damage the stitches.
Thread-Matching Tips
When it comes to selecting thread, picking the right thread can make a world of difference. Using the same thread color as the fabric prevents the thread from showing through the seams – making it look more professional. If you are unsure of the thread color, always choose one that is a few shades darker.
Another great way to find the right color for your project is to take a small piece of the fabric you are hemming to a fabric store and match the color of the thread with the fabric. This will help you find the perfect color thread for your project.
To thread a needle properly, make sure it is free from any knots and always pass the thread through the eye of the needle a couple of times.
Seam Finishing Tips
To give a professional finish to your project, you can use a zigzag stitch to finish the seams and the hem – this will prevent the fabric from fraying, and make the edges look neat and clean.
You can also use a pinking shears to give the fabric a zigzag finish, which also helps prevent fraying. Pinking shears should be used as an alternative to zigzag, as they are not suitable for heavier fabrics, such as denim.
Using a binding tape is also a great way to give a professional finish to your hems. Binding tape is a thin fabric that is used to cover the edge of a fabric and it prevents fraying and gives the hem a neat finish.
Care Tips
When taking your newly stitched jeans or pants for a first wash, it is best to do it by hand, as the wash and spin cycles on a washer can damage the hem, especially if it has not been sewn on perfectly. Immersing the fabric in cold water and using mild detergent will help keep the hem and thread intact.
If the hem still needs some extra protection and stability, you could use fusible web tape. This is a type of adhesive that can be applied over the hem without changing the flexibility of the fabric. The adhesive will keep the hem in place and prevent it from fraying.
Finally, to extend the lifespan of your hem and make sure it is as durable as possible, it is best to avoid washing frequently as this can weaken the thread and cause the hem to come undone. Make sure to air the item out and avoid harsh chemical agents like bleach, as this can damage the fabric.
