Types of Needles for Sewing Machines
Sewing machines come with a variety of needle sizes and types. Identifying the type of needle required for a particular sewing machine can be tricky. Whether you’re a professional tailor or a beginner stitching clothes or home décor, understanding needles is essential for success in sewing.
Size and Type
The size of a sewing needle is measured in numbers on the European system. The higher the number, the bigger the needle. A standard universal needle usually comes in sizes 8, 9, and 10. There are also specialty sizes ranging from 4 to 16. Below size 9, the needle is too small and using it can cause damage to the machine.
The type of needle you use depends on the type and weight of the fabric you’re working with. Generally, the lighter the fabric, the finer the needle; the heavier the fabric, the thicker the needle.
Sharps (HM)
The sharp needle is an all-purpose needle suitable for general and utility sewing. It works well with lightweight or medium weight fabrics and heavier threads. It is the needle most commonly used for sewing light weight fabrics such as cotton, silk, and linen.
Ball Point (HML)
The ball point needle is best for knits, tricot, and jersey fabrics. The rounded point prevents the needle from puncturing and splitting the fibers in the material. The most common size of ball point needle is 90/14. It’s important to remember that a larger needle size doesn’t work better with a knit fabric.
Jeans (HM)
This is a heavy duty needle ideal for sewing through thick fabrics like denim and other sturdy fabrics. It features a sharp point for a strong penetration and is available in sizes 80/12 and 90/14.
Metallic (HML)
The metallic needle is used for sewing on synthetic fabrics, vinyl, and other metallic fabrics. The finish promotes smooth stitching, and the eye of the needle is larger than that of a standard needle, allowing thicker threads to pass through without breaking. The most commonly used sized is 90/14.
Leather (HML)
A leather needle is designed to be used with leather and synthetic leather materials. It is sharper than most other needles and has a wedge-shaped point that helps it penetrate the material. It can be used with both heavyweight and lightweight leather materials and is available in sizes 80/12 and 90/14.
Twin Needles
Twin needles create a two-stitch look, with each stitch next to the other. This type of needle is used for decorative stitching and edging. Twin needles come in different sizes for different thread weights. The size of the needle is measured in millimeters and is located on the flat side.
How to Select a Needle Type and Size
When selecting a needle for a particular fabric, consider both the type and size of the fabric. Thicker fabrics require a thicker needle, whereas lighter fabrics need a smaller needle. As a general guideline, use a size 8-10 needle for lightweight fabric, size 11-14 for medium weight fabric, and size 16-18 for heavyweight fabric.
Testing the Needle
Once you’ve selected a needle, it’s essential to test it on a scrap of fabric first before beginning any project. This will help you avoid wasting time and fabric if the needle is not right for the job. Insert the needle into the fabric and pull it through to check the movement of the needle. If it pierces the fabric easily, the needle is a good fit.
Looking for Needle Damage
Always check the needle for any signs of damage before starting a project. Damaged needles can cause skipped stitches, broken threads, uneven stitching, and fabric puckering. If you find any signs of damage, discard the needle and use a new one.
How to Change the Needle
Most sewing machines come with a needle-changing system. Simply loosen the screws on the needle clamp and remove the old needle. Replace the old needle with a new one and tighten the screws. Test the needle by sewing a few stitches on a scrap of fabric.
Setting the Needle
Once the needle is changed, it needs to be set correctly in the machine. It should be at the highest point of the needle bar and extend beyond the presser foot when the needle reaches its lowest. This is important for even stitching. The threads should be coming off the spool from the top and behind the needle.
Maintenance and Care for Sewing Machine Needles
Sewing machine needles should be handled with great care and replaced with each new project. Needles become dull over time, so it’s important to determine when they need to be replaced. Keeping your needles in good condition will help ensure they last longer and help you get the best results.
