Understand What It Is
Locking stitches on a sewing machine is a process that uses a special feature to help secure the ends of a stitch pattern that are sewn, preventing unraveling and fraying of the fabric. This feature helps to finishing off a project with neat, sharp lines and a professional look. The goal is to create a circle of stitches and pull the thread ends to the inside of the workpiece, where they will remain hidden and secure. When locking stitches, a single loop of thread needs to be used for the most stretch, strength, and neatness.
Research Sewing Machine Models
Before beginning, it is important to note that the type or model of the sewing machine can determine the ease of the process. Investigate the machine’s manual, or contact the sewing machine’s manufacturer for an overview of the product’s features and specifications. Consider the number of threads required for lock stitches and whether the machine needs special thread for the purpose.
Prepare Threads and Setup Sewing Machine
The thread used for the seams is important to lock stitch success. Choose thread that is the same colour, weight, and fibre as that used for the topstitching; this ensures that the locked stitch will blend quickly with the rest of the stitching. The use of the same colour in both the top and bobbin threads also helps to visually blend the stitches into one. Prepare the machine by loading the bobbin and tensioning the thread. It is important to consult the manual as different models require differing methods of setup and tension.
Sew the Lock Stitch
Most lock stitch sewing machines have a button, knob, or switch to move the needle in reverse. Simply press the button and sew a few stitches, backstitching for 3-4 stitches. Then, press down the reverse switch and sew the same number of stitches in the forwards direction. Repeat this process a few times to insure that the needle and bobbin thread become locked in place. To ensure even knotting, use the same presser foot pressure and same speed stitches as with topstitching.
Cut and Pull Thread Ends
To finish the lock stitch of a project, the needle is lifted to the highest position and the presser foot is raised. Remove the workpiece and cut the top thread, leaving a few inches on the workpiece. To complete the locked stitch pattern, tug on the top thread end and pull it to the underside of the fabric. Do the same with the bobbin thread. Ensure that the threads on both sides of the fabric are equal and create a flat knot. Since both ends of the two different coloured threads will be visible when the process is done, it is important that the fabric be well adjusted before reinserting the needle.
Avoid Common Mistakes
When attempting to lock stitches, it is important to ensure the threads are kept an even distance from the fabric. A limp loop or excessively large overlap can result in an unsightly stitch pattern. Additionally, pulling the thread too tightly can cause puckering on the fabric. It is also important to make sure that the knot is evenly balanced; an unbalanced knot will cause the fabric to be unevenly tensioned, resulting in distortion or pulling of the fabric. It is also important to make sure that the fabric is not pulled in any direction as this can cause stretching or distortion of the material.
Finishing Touches
Once locked stitches are in place, the thread ends can be secured further. Re-insert the needle, select the lowest stitch setting, and apply a few stitches close to the knot. This procedure helps to really bind the threads together, preventing them from slipping and changing the stitch pattern. To ensure the look remains professional and neat, however, make sure the extra stitches are hidden by matching the thread colour.
Further Exploring
Optional Accessories
Many machines provide an optional accessory that helps to tighten the lock stitch. Most of these are metal clamps that are placed at the start and end of stitching. The clamp holds the threads taut, ensuring a smaller, more compact stitch pattern. It is also helpful in preventing accidental movement of the fabric during the stitching process.
Tension Settings
Tension is an important factor in locking stitches. If the tension is too loose, the stitches will look sloppy and the fabric can pull apart. If the tension is too tight, the fabric can stretch, causing puckering and uneven stitch patterns. Consult the manual to achieve the a balanced tension and ensure locking of the threads.
Edge Finishing
Finishing off with a neat edge can be tricky. To prevent accidental unraveling, use an overlock stitch or a four-threaded overcasting stitch. This additional step helps to strengthen the seam and ensure that the edges do not fray or unravel. Ensure to adjust the tension so that the fabric does not pucker or curl.
Prepare for Future Projects
Before unlocking the stitch, practice on scrap fabric and adjust the setting before tackling a full project. Once the thread loop is perfected, use a piece of fabric to test the lock stitch until a thread length that works best is determined. Practice using the various tension and reverse settings to achieve a neat, perfect lock stitch and store the settings in mind for future use.
