Threading the Machine, Bobbin Insertion, Presser Foot Installation
From the basics of threading the sewing machine, inserting the bobbin and installing the presser foot, the process of making a buttonhole requires taking a few preliminary steps to ensure a successful outcome. Thread the Brother sewing machine, according to the manual, selecting a cotton-wrapped polyester thread for the top thread spool and using the same type for the bobbin thread. Cut a 25 cm piece of top thread as a guide, double the thread at the end and loop over the shuttle post. Slide the thread through the thread guide and tension discs, then tie the ends at the felt pad. Insert the bobbin making sure it only winds one direction, tie the ends in the same way as the top thread and secure the shuttle thread between the take-up lever and the presser foot. Place the presser foot onto the machine and ensure the feed dogs are visible to enable the fabric to be fed through the machine.
Selecting the Right Stitch and Setting Up the Buttonhole Template
The presser foot needs to be adjusted according to the manual and select the appropriate stitch for the buttonhole. The buttonhole design and stitch options vary according to the model so it’s essential to refer to the manual for the model or be aware of the features available. Once the stitch is selected and the buttonhole template is installed, secure the fabric to the machine using a pin and measure the hole for the button in the fabric to determine the length of the buttonhole required. It is essential to select the first letter of the buttonhole stitch and set the stitch length to zero.
Retract The Bobbin Thread and Position the Fabric
To begin making a buttonhole, start at the right side of the fabric and place the template against the fabric so that the end of the buttonhole is centred to the hole for the button. Then, carefully depress the needle a few times on the bar tack to supple the bobbin thread for the stitch. Pull the extra thread through the template and through the back of the fabric and move the template to the left, making sure the needle has not run out of thread. Position the fabric firmly against the template and begin the buttonhole. Pass the needle through the fabric by depressing the foot pedal, then back to the starting position.
Progress with the Buttonhole, Changing Between Directions
Continue depressing the foot pedal and moving the fabric slightly to the left with each stitch. Make sure the fabric is securely placed to avoid irregular stitches and at the same time, ensure that the fabric is not stretched while reinforcing the side seams. When the end of the buttonhole is reached, the machine will prompt you to change directions and depress the foot pedal until the bottom tack of the buttonhole is complete.
Finish with Backstitch and Trim Excess Thread
At the end of the buttonhole, the machine will beep, retract the needle and upon selection of a backstitch, the machine will complete the cycle. Cut excess thread from the beginning of the buttonhole and from the end of the buttonhole, ensuring threads are not long enough to pull through the fabric. With careful attention and gentle hand guidance, guarantee a neat, professional buttonhole.
Installation of the Button
Buttons come in a variety of sizes, shapes, colors and ranks and can be made of numerous materials such as plastic, metal and natural fibers. For the installation of the button, make sure to first select a button of the right size. Sew it on the fabric, slide the shank through the buttonhole and fix it in place, making sure not to stretch the fabric. Secure the button in place with a few stitches if necessary.
Troubleshooting Broken Stitches
If the fabric is pulled too tightly or the needle has come out of the fabric, the buttonhole may be messed up and broken stitches may occur. To avoid broken stitches, relax the fabric, reduce the stitch speed and make sure to use the right size needle according to the fabric thickness. Always keep the needle at the same point of the buttonhole, so the needle does not run out of thread. In case of broken stitches, shorten or lengthen the stitch length and make sure to hold the fabric securely.
Making Adjustments to the Buttonhole
To make improvements to the buttonhole and guarantee a neat finish, it is important to adjust the width of the stitches. Use a small screwdriver to adjust the tension discs, which will enable you to make wider or tighter stitches, according to your preference. Make sure to make the same change to both tension discs and if the stitch looks loose, increase the tension slightly. Then, retest the stitch and adjust the screwdriver again if needed.
Using the Buttonhole Lever
Buttonhole levers can be used to make a quick and precise buttonhole in one pass, by simply lowering the lever and pressing a few buttons. Activate the lever when the machine is ready to start sewing and attach the lever to the fabric, then lower the lever to allow the machine to start the buttonhole. The lever will keep the fabric in place, allowing for precise stitch placement and for the buttonhole to be perfectly centred.
Regular Cleaning and Maintenance
To maintain the machine in optimal condition and prevent it from malfunctioning, it is essential to clean and lubricate regularly. Firstly, unplug the machine, take off the bobbin case, the presser foot and the feeding dog, then wipe off any dust, lint and other debris that may be stuck to the surface, moving with a circular motion. Reinstall the pieces, reinstall the bobbin and check that the needle is intact before plugging the machine and testing a few stitches.
Using Specialty Presser Feet and Buttonhole Attachments
Advanced brother sewing machines offer specialty presser feet and buttonhole attachments to make the buttonholes easier and faster. This wide variety of presser feet and attachments come in the form of snap-on feet, where no screws are necessary to attach them, or feet and attachments that require a few screws for installation. With this range of accessories, the possibilities for embellishing projects offer endless options.
Applying Different Techniques
If a buttonhole has to be made in more delicate fabrics, such as chiffon and lace, and a traditional buttonhole is not suitable, other techniques may be used to finish the project. Start by marking the size of the button on the fabric with pins and sew strips of satin ribbon in place, to fit around the button and secure it in place. Cut the excess ribbon around the button, slide the shank through the ribbon and secure it using a few stitches.
Finishing Techniques for Buttonholes
When it comes to the finishing techniques of a buttonhole, there are several options, such as zig zag stitch, fray check or use of fabric paint. Zig zag stitch by sewing several stitches around the buttonhole and cutting off the excess thread. Alternatively, a clear liquid fabric paint may be used to prevent the fabric from fraying, as well as adding a glossy finish. Finally, fray check can be used in the same way as with other fabrics to seal the edges.
