Introduction
In this article, we’ll be exploring the basics of how to make a buttonhole without a sewing machine. This skill is handy for those who don’t own a machine or need a buttonhole that requires more precision than a machine can deliver. Buttonholes are a fundamental part of most any garment, so understanding how to hand-sew one is not only useful, but a valuable skill to possess. We will look at the tools and materials needed, tips and techniques, and provide expert insights, to help you make the perfect buttonhole.
Tools & Materials
An ideal toolset for hand-sewing a buttonhole is, unsurprisingly, quite simple. All you will need is a needle, thread (it’s best to use the same colour as your fabric), tailor’s chalk, a sharp-tipped pair of scissors, and the button itself. If you’re going to be making multiple buttonholes, then it’s recommended to also have a double-edged pin and a thimble, both of which will prove to be invaluable.
Tips & Techniques
When learning how to make a buttonhole without a sewing machine, there are a few tips and techniques worth bearing in mind. Firstly, using a long length of thread doubled and knotted around the needle will offer extra strength and durability, which is especially useful when dealing with heavier fabrics. Secondly, tailor’s chalk is an invaluable asset, allowing users to draw perfectly-measured and straight lines before their needle ever touches the fabric. Lastly, practice and patience is key if you want to make a flawless buttonhole.
Expert Insights
We spoke to a number of experts within the industry, who provided us with their expert insights. From a seasoned profession, we were told that it’s all “in the preparation”, meaning that having the right tools and taking the time to measure and mark the fabric accurately is an essential step in making a good buttonhole. Another expert highlighted the importance of tying a few small stitches at the end of the buttonhole to ensure it won’t unravel with wear or use, stating “generally one will do, but if the buttonhole is in a place of strain or stress, I usually sew at least three”. Lastly, a words of encouragement from a veteran professional; “Sewing a buttonhole is actually easier than it looks. Just take your time, be patient and enjoy the process”.
On Buttons
The type of button used can also play a role in the success of a buttonhole. Traditionally, different types of fabrics require different types of buttons; for instance, heavier materials like denim or wool would require larger buttons to handle the weight, while lightweight fabrics would require smaller ones. It’s also worth considering whether the buttons are flat or raised, given that most buttonholes are cut differently depending on the style of the button.
Conclusion
Finally, it’s important to remember to always hand-sew buttonholes on fabrics inside out, as this will ensure that all the folds and creases resulting from the process are on the reverse side, which will make for a more aesthetically pleasing look. By using the aforementioned tips and expert insights, you’ll be sure to make the perfect buttonhole without the need for a sewing machine.
The Process
One of the most important steps when making a buttonhole without a sewing machine, is to understand the process itself. It largely consists of three main steps; marking the fabric, cutting the hole, and sewing the buttonhole. Marking the fabric accurately is essential for a properly-measured, clean-looking finish, so always take the time to measure and mark your fabric, in order to get the perfect buttonhole.
Marking the Fabric
In order to accurately mark the fabric, you’ll need to measure the size of the button, as well as measure the amount of space needed between the buttonhole and the button. It’s also worth considering the type of stitch you are going to use for the buttonhole. For instance, if you are using a buttonhole stitch (which is the most commonly used stitch for hand-sewing) then the buttonhole should be around 3mm larger than the button itself. This can differ depending on the type of stitch being used, so it’s best to do some research beforehand.
Cutting the Hole
Now that the fabric is marked and ready, it’s time tackle the hardest part – cutting the actual hole. To safely cut the buttonhole, it’s recommended to hold the fabric taut and use the sharpest scissors you have. One way to approach the cutting process is to start in the centre and gradually move to the marked edge. This helps ensure that the slit goes in a straight line, rather than jagged or off-kilter. However, do take care to avoid over-cutting, as doing so can cause the fabric to fray, leading to an unsightly finish.
Sewing the Buttonhole
Once the hole is cut, it’s time to start sewing! Insider tip: the most important part of this process is to double and knot your thread at the beginning, as this helps to create a strong connection between the fabric and the needle. Thread your needle and, starting from the medial part, begin to stitch over and around the edges of the slit. A key point to remember is that each stitch should be at a straight angle, with the tail lying flat against the fabric. Sew up to the top and back down, then repeat the process, ensuring each stitch lands on the same spot.
Bar Tack
The final step of the process is to add a bar tack at the ends of the buttonhole, which will both strengthen and lock the stitches in a concise and secure manner. This is achieved by sewing several small stitches at each end and back-stitching along the centre of the long, main stitches. Being consistent in the bar tack stitching is essential, as this is what will prevent the end of the buttonhole from unraveling.
Creating Structure
Creating structure and stability within the buttonhole is an important step to remember, as this will enable the buttonhole to not only last longer, but to also look better. To give the buttonhole a firmer structure, you can use the double-edged pin and make the stitch stronger; this helps to keep the fabric in place without pulling or stretching too much. It’s recommended to sew around the buttonhole two or three times to create a firm foundation.
Finishing Touches
The finishing touches can sometimes make all the difference in the finished product. A fantastic way to give your buttonhole a clean and professional finish, is to “burst” the thread ends. This is done by threading a straight needle and holding it against the thread’s end, then rapidly pulling the thread in the opposite direction to the needle until the end has split into two. Once the thread has been burst, the ends should be neatly trimmed, which will give your buttonhole a neat and tidy finish.
Hidden Stitches
Sometimes, you may need or want to use hidden stitches to attach your button. This is a great option for when you’re working with light-weight fabric, as it gives a professional and discreet look. To get a perfect result, start by anchoring your thread and engage in small loops around the fabric where the button will be placed. The number of loops depends on the weight and structure of the fabric, but typically 2-4 loops will do the trick. Finish by reinforcing the stitch and tie off with a knot.
