It is often intimidating to work with thick fabric as most beginners are unaware of the considerations to be taken in account when setting the sewing machine for thick fabric . This article covers tips and tricks to set the machine for thick fabric, covering all the relevant pieces of information for an experienced sewer.
Select the Right Needles
Needles are the foremost tool to consider when preparing the machine for thick fabric. Generally, when you are stitching fabric that is thicker than two layers of fashion fabric then you need to select a thicker needle. The increased thickness of the needle allows it to be able to puncture multiple layers of thick fabric with ease. Most days, size 90 universal (stretch) needles should work just fine. However, if the fabric is especially thick, size 100 or above would best suit the situation.
As a rule of thumb, the higher the number, the thicker and larger the needle will be. You can also opt for a denim or leather needle if you are working with canvas, leather, or thicker material. The extra strength at the tip of the needle helps you create stronger stitches, allowing you to work your fabric with ease.
Changing the Needle Plate
Simultaneously, you need to change the throat plate. A normal throat plate will have small size holes. For thick fabrics, you will need to change it to a plate with larger holes. This enlargement helps feed thicker layers of fabric through the machine without any disruptions.
In addition, make sure to use the correct foot. This will depend on the type of stitch you are using on your project. When working on a traditional stitch, use a regular foot. For decorative stitching, the thicker foot will be helpful. By selecting the right foot, one can press the fabric against the feed dog, helping stitch the fabric together without any nips or tucks.
Lower the Feed Dog
When sewing thick fabrics, it is recommended you lower the feed dog. It helps the fabric move through the machine properly without making the needle wobble. If you are using a standard feed dog, lower it to level one. This will allow a slow and steady motion, allowing for even stitches.
If you are using the walking foot or a double needle, you will need to lower the feed dogs on these as well. The walking foot is great for thick fabrics, as your material will be pulled from both the top and bottom of the machine simultaneously, making it easier to sew. In addition, use a denim or Teflon foot for extra support.
Adjusting the Thread Tension
When sewing with thicker fabric, you will need to adjust the thread tension. If you are sewing multiple layers, you need to make the tension slightly higher, allowing the machine to grab more of the top thread. This, in turn, will stitch the layers of the fabric together more tightly and securely.
Use a lower tension when stitching single layers, as the fabric is not as thick. When working with lightweight batting like cotton batting, use the slowest stitch setting possible to ensure the densest stitch pattern. As a reminder, use the same thread in both the needle and the bobbin for best results.
Increase the Pressure and Foot Pressure
Make sure to adjust the pressure and foot pressure. Increase the presser foot pressure on the stitching head since thicker fabric requires more pressure and grip to sew it properly. The foot pressure is adjustable on the machine, and increasing the pressure can allow for more pressure when sewing pieces together.
For most fabrics, you can use the standard pressure setting, as this should be enough to sew through the fabric. However, if you are working with a fabric that is extremely thick, adjust the setting so that the foot will grab the fabric more securely
Use a Serger
In the event that the layers are too thick for the machine, consider investing in a serger. It can handle fabrics that are too thick for a regular sewing machine, and ensure a neat and even finish. It is a great way to stitch several layers together and make sturdy seams.
However before working with a serger, make sure you gather all your materials and read the instructions carefully. Different models of sergers have different settings, and you should be aware of the settings before you use it. Additionally, make sure to practice on some scrap fabric before working with the main project.
Check for Jamming
While sewing thick fabric, make sure to keep an eye out for the machine jamming. If the layers are slipping, either lower the stitch length slightly, or increase the presser foot pressure. The stitching will become uneven when the fabric is slipping and could cause the needle to break, resulting in a bigger problem.
Additionally, if you are using three or more layers, consider using a straight stitch plate. The straight stitch plate will help reduce puckering and other issues you may face when working with thick fabric. You can also use extra layers of interfacing or stabilizer for extra support for the fabrics.
Troubleshooting
If after changing the needle, foot and adjusting the tension and pressure, the stitching is still skipping, then you may need to troubleshoot the machine. Make sure all the parts are clean and inspect all the components for any build up of lint or dust. If you do find any lint or dust, use a tiny brush to clean it off.
Moreover, inspect the bobbin case and take out the bobbin to clean it. Remove any lint or dust, making sure the knots are secured and the thread is evenly distributed. Similarly, inspect the needle and thread it correctly, and make sure it is secured through the needle plate.
Check the Balance
Before Sarting, it is important to check the balance of the stitches. If the balance is off, it means that too much feed is being taken from one side of the fabric. As such, you can stop the machine, check to make sure everything Is in place, and readjust the tension.
Furthermore, it is vital to use long pins when pinning thick fabric together. This helps hold the fabric in place and prevent any slips or tucks. Lastly, use the lowest speed possible when sewing, regardless of how experienced you are. The slower speed will help reduce skipped stitches and ensure an even stitch.
Wide Zigzag Stitch
If you are working with fabrics that are thin, stretchy, or slippery, it is better to use a wide, short zigzag stitch. This will make the thread around the fabric and provide more support, allowing it to stretch more. In addition, make sure the stitch is short enough so that the fabric and stitches don’t pull away.
The wide zigzag stitch is great for fabrics like satin and silk, as it stretches with the fabric. Plus, if you are attaching elastic, sew it in place using a wide zigzag stitch for a secure hold.
Choose the Right Threads
When it comes to setting up the sewing machine for thick fabric, the type of thread being used is equally as important. If you are using a light-weight, low-quality thread, the chances of the stitches ripping through the fabric increase significantly. As such, use stronger and heavier threads like the all-purpose or polyester threads for thicker fabrics. In addition, the thicker thread will hide in the fabric, making for a cleaner finish.
For extra durability, use an all-purpose thread with a serger thread. The serger thread is generally thicker, longer lasting, and more apt to handle heavier fabrics. Furthermore, you can use multiple threads at once if you feel the thread is not strong enough. However, make sure you test the thread on a scrap piece first.
Prewash the Fabric
Before setting up the machine, it is essential to pre-wash the fabric. Even the thickest fabrics tend to shrink after the first wash, and pre-washing eliminates the need to wash the finished project afterwards. This will make it easier for you to sew the fabric, making it easier to maneuver the fabric.
Also, stay-tape is an essential tool when dealing with thick fabrics. As the name suggests, it helps keep the shape and form of the fabric intact. In addition, use a tissue paper to reduce the thickness in places. As an experienced sewer, you should know how to differentiate your usage of these materials based on the project in hand.
