Needle Sizes Explored
When it comes to needle size and selection, there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Different types of fabrics and thread require different types of needles and the needle size should be chosen to suit the particular fabric and the style of sewing. The shape and size of the needle’s eye, the length of the shank and the size of the point all need to be taken into consideration when deciding which needle is best for a particular project.
Appliqué, quilting and free motion sewing all require different needles. Quilting and free motion sewing require needles that are thinner than normal and the tip of the needle needs to be slightly rounded to prevent thread breakage. You should also pay attention to the size of the scarf – the indentation behind the tip. It should be larger on quilting and free motion sewing needles than on regular sewing needles. To make a flatter stitch on quilts, a quilting needle size 80/12 is ideal.
For light to medium weight woven fabrics a universal needle size 70/10 or 80/12 is usually recommended. For knits and stretchy fabrics a stretch needle size 70/10 or 80/12 should be used as it has a special eye and scarf designed to prevent skipped stitches and snags. To sew heavy material such as leather or vinyl, a sharp needle size 90/14 is required.
When it comes to specific threads, thicker threads require a larger eye so that the thread can move freely through it. A thicker thread will also require a larger hole in the needle plate in order to feed through. A larger hole in the needle plate also enables the feed dogs to grip the fabric better and prevent puckering.
Types of Needles Explored
In addition to size, there are also different types of needles to choose from depending on your project. For example, a ballpoint needle is designed to sew on knits as it has a rounded tip that separates the fibers of the fabric instead of piercing them like a sharp needle would. If you’re working with extra-delicate fabrics such as silk, a sharp point needle is a must as it is the only type of needle that can sew through these slippery materials without causing damage.
Embroidery needles are designed specifically for machine embroidery and have a longer eye to accommodate thicker threads like metallic embroidery thread and come in a variety of sizes ranging from 60/8 to 90/14. In order for them to fit through the needle plate, it should be slightly enlarged to accommodate their size.
Twin needles are two needles mounted onto one shank and are often used for topstitching, decorative stitching and hemming. When using a twin needle, it is important to choose a needle that is the same size as your sewing machine needle. For example, if your sewing machine needle is a 75/11, your twin needle should also be a 75/11.
Even within the same type of needles, there are variations such as titanium needles, self-threading needles, heat-resistant needles and quilting needles. Titanium needles are extra sharp and have a low heat attribute, which makes them ideal for warming fabrics such as satin. Self-threading needles can be used when threading a difficult thread such as embroidery thread or topstitching thread that tends to shred easily. Heat-resistant needles are made with special alloys designed to resist high temperatures encountered when using fusible webbing. Quilting needles, as discussed earlier, have a slightly rounded tip and a large scarf to help prevent stitch skipping, puckering and thread breakage.
Fabrics and Needles
The type of fabric and thread being sewn will also dictate the type of needle to be used. For instance, when working with natural, breathable fabrics such as cotton and linen use a Universal needle in size 70/10 or 80/12 as it is the type of needle that best accommodates these fabrics. When sewing on silk use a sharp point needle as it is the only type of needle that can penetrate these materials without causing damage.
Needle size should also be taken into consideration when working with different fabrics. When sewing on extra-fine fabrics such as chiffon and organza, a finer needle such as a 65/9 should be used while heavy fabrics such as denim and leather require a needle size 90/14. When working with stretchy materials such as spandex and lycra, a stretch needle size 70/10 or 80/12 is recommended to ensure the stitches can move with the fabric.
In addition, when working with thicker fabrics or threads and decorative or specialty stitches, a larger hole in the needle plate should be used to accommodate the larger size of the needle. Also, if you’re using a thicker thread on a machine that requires the use of a regular-sized needle, replace the needle with a larger size and/or a denim needle.
Maintenance and Needles
It is important to remember that sewing machine needles do wear out after prolonged use and should be changed regularly. How often depends on the type of materials you’re sewing and the type of needle being used, but a good rule of thumb is to change the needle after four to six hours of continuous sewing. For example, if you’re sewing with a stretch needle and heavy denim, you may find yourself changing the needle more frequently than if you’re sewing with lighter fabrics and a universal needle.
A worn needle can cause skipped stitches, thread breakage, tension problems and puckered fabrics, which is why it’s important to change it regularly. It is also important to use the correct needle for the fabric and thread being used to ensure a smooth seam.
Safety and Needles
When replacing a needle, always make sure the needle is completely seated in the needle bar and tightened securely. The needle should also be inspected for nicks, burrs or other damage before using it. If a needle is damaged, discarded and replace it with a new one.
In addition, when threading the needle, always oil the spool pin and thread guides before sewing. This will help to prevent thread breakage and fraying. When done sewing, remove the thread spool and cut off the thread with scissors rather than relying on the machine’s thread cutter.
Thread and Needles
The type of thread you use can also affect needle size and selection. For example, if you’re using a light-weight thread (such as a 40 or 50 weight thread) you may need to use a smaller size needle such as a 65/9 in order to ensure the thread can slide through the needle’s eye without the risk of breakage or tension problems.
Similarly, if you’re pumping heavier threads through the needle plate, a larger hole and/or larger needle may be necessary. Heavier threads such as a 40 or 50 weight or specialty threads such as metallic thread require larger eyes and needles, which could range from 80/12 and up depending on the type of thread.(add your own insights and analysis here)
Conclusion
When it comes to selecting the right size of needle for a particular project, it is important to take into consideration the type of fabric and thread being sewn. Different types of fabrics, threads and specialty techniques may require different sizes of needles, so it is important to choose the right one for the job. It is also important to keep in mind that sewing machine needles do wear out, so it is important to change them regularly and use the proper safety precautions when doing so.
