When it comes to selecting the right kind of sewing machine needle and thread, few people are aware of the nuances necessary to get the job done correctly. Using the wrong kind of needle and thread combination can result in a poorly constructed article of clothing as well as visible, unattractive stitches. For cotton fabric, the size of the needle should be much smaller than one that would be used for heavier, denser fabrics.
Knowing what size needle you should use for sewing cotton is all about the thickness of the fabric and thread. In general, when stitching cotton fabric, the needle should be in the size range of 8 -11, which is relatively fine for most fabrics. The diameter of the needle is expressed in numbers, so size 8, for example, is slightly thinner than size 11.
When it comes to thread size for both hand-stitching and machine-stitching, finer thread should be used for lighter fabrics like cotton. For lighter materials like cotton, look for thread in the range of #50 to #60. Because cotton is tighter woven, using a finer thread will make it less likely to be visible on the finished product.Length of the thread is important too; it is recommended to have a slightly longer thread than needed so that the tension stays constant during long seams.
Aside from the right needle and thread, tension should also remain stable in order to produce neat stitches; the looser the tension, the poorer quality of stitches. Setting the right tension entails adjusting the upper and lower thread tension knobs located on the outside of the machine until the stitches are even.
Choosing the right size needle and thread is also important when it comes to the type of fabric; for instance, heavier fabrics will likely require a larger size needle and a thicker thread. It is recommended that you take it slow when stitching a new kind of fabric in order to avoid any damage or punctures to the sewing machine.
Overall, for cotton fabrics, the size of the needle should be anywhere between 8-11, with a thread range of #50 to #60 for the most optimal results. The pressure should remain constant but never too tight as this could cause stretch marks, tears and excessive fraying. Choosing the correct needles and making sure the tension is set properly on the sewing machine will lead to a finished product that looks professional and shows off your creative skills.
The Right Presser Foot
While selecting the right size needle and thread for sewing cotton fabric is important, the presser foot of the sewing machine should always be taken into consideration. The roller at the bottom of the presser foot applies the pressure that allows the fabric to pass through the machine. It is important to use the right foot, as this will also ensure that the struggle while sewing is kept to a minimum as well as that it will provide a uniform stitch.
For specifically cotton fabrics, the most appropriate presser foot is either a general-purpose foot or a roller-footed presser foot. The roller foot is most suitable for fabrics since it has universal wheels that will move over the fabric more easily than a standard presser foot, creating uniform stitches and an overall smoother finish.
The general-purpose foot is also an effective option, as it holds the fabric more securely than a roller foot, making it easier to sew knits smoothly without stretching them. In addition, it provides more stability for thicker fabrics and multi-layered items.
Finally, one should consider the type of fabric when deciding which presser foot to use. Fabrics with a fibrous weave such as denim, canvas or corduroy are ideal with a roller foot, while fabrics that have a slightly shiny surface, such as cotton, sitin and brocade, are more suitable for general-purpose foot.
Process of Setting Up Machine
To ensure the best results when sewing with a cotton fabric, it is important to set up the sewing machine correctly. This includes choosing the right pressure, tension, and thread type for the fabric, as well as selecting the appropriate size needle for the project.
If the needle selected is too large for the fabric, it can cause skipped stitches, uneven fabric weave, and undesired holes, as well as a less than satisfactory overall finish. In addition, the wrong thread can lead to visible stitches and a loose fabric.
Before beginning to sew the fabric, it is advisable to adjust the pressure of the presser foot according to the instructions in the sewing machine manual. The ideal pressure is one strong enough to keep the fabric straight and secure, but soft enough to allow the needle to travel freely. The tension of the thread also needs to be adjusted, usually by adjusting the two sliders on the top of the machine. Finally, it is important to use the correct kind of thread for the fabric, in terms of size and colour.
Material Varieties
It is important to be aware that different types of cotton and other natural fabrics require specific needle sizes and threads. In order to reduce the chances of fabric snagging, pulling or sagging, it is important to be familiar with each of the fabric and thread varieties that can be sewn on a machine.
For instance, cotton quilting fabric requires a prime needle size of y 11 in order to ensure that the fabric feeds evenly and stays flat. As with any other cotton fabric, it is important to test the stitch with a scrap piece before beginning to sew the actual project. For lightweight cotton fabrics, a size 9 or 10 needle can be used with a size 50 thread instead of the usual 60 thread.
On the other hand, heavier cotton fabrics such as denim and cotton duck cloth require a larger needle size and heavier thread. A size 14 needle is most appropriate for exploring and a size 60 thread should be used to match the heavier fabric. In this case, it is also important to adjust the pressure of the presser foot accordingly.
Importance of Preparation & Maintenance
Sewing with the wrong size needle or incorrectly set up sewing machines can not only lead to unsatisfactory results, but can also cause damage to the fabric and the sewing machine. If the correct size needle is not used, it can break or bend, effectively ruining the entire project.
In addition, the wrong needle can cause permanent damage to the bobbin case and tension discs of the machine as well as to threads that cannot be salvaged.
It is, therefore, essential to thoroughly prepare the machine and allocate ample time to the set up process, in order to ensure that the fabric and finished product are not damaged. Regular maintenance and service, in addition to cleaning, will help to keep the machine in the best condition possible.
Care Instructions for Fabric
Cotton fabrics will last for a long time if properly cared for. In general, it is important to launder cotton fabrics according to the manufacturer’s instructions. This usually entails either a cold or warm water wash on a gentle cycle, followed by a reduced spin cycle if applicable. To get the most out of cotton fabrics, it is important to check the washing instructions when buying the fabric.
For best results, natural fabrics should be ironed on the reverse side until damp and then flipped over for finishing. Avoid using bleach, as this tends to damage the fabric, and allow pieces to air dry as much as possible.
Finally, it is important to note that, depending on the type of cotton fabric, and the thread used, avoiding excessive long-term exposure to direct sunlight is essential to prolong the life of the fabric.
Stitching & Finishing Techniques
While the right size needle and thread will ensure good quality stitches, it is important to bear in mind that there are several finishing techniques which can be used to take the stitching to the next level.
For example, to enhance the garment’s appearance, a reinforcing stitch can be made at the beginning and the end of seams. Another way to make the seams stand out is by topstitching; usually done at a 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance, this technique involves stitching through all layers at once. This decorative finish can add visual interest to the garment, as well as increase its durability.
Another way to make a garment look its best is to use a flat fell seam on the inside of the item. This pushes the seam allowance to the inside of the garment and the two front pieces together, giving the garment a neat, clean, and polished look. This technique is especially suited for garments with multiple seams.
When it comes to hems, an overcast stitch or a blind hem are sophisticated methods. The blind hem is ideal for fabrics like cotton because it is barely visible, whereas the overcast stitch prevents fraying and adds a decorative finish.
