Most people know that a sewing machine needle is important to have when sewing, but understanding what size needle to use when sewing leather can be daunting.Did you know that the type of needle and its size determines the quality of the stitching? It is important to understand the different needle sizes and the various features, so you can choose the best option for the particular type of leather you are working with.
The size of a sewing machine needle is determined by its diameter. Needles are available in sizes ranging from 9 to 18. The bigger the number, the thicker and stronger the needle. When it comes to choosing the right size needle for leather, it’s important to follow these guidelines.
Size 9 Needle
Size 9 needles are the smallest in diameter, and are best for extremely light leathers. This is the needle size to consider when working with calfskin and lambskin, which are very thin leathers. The smaller diameter of the size 9 needle doesn’t cause damage to the leather fabric, making it the preferred choice for delicate fabrics.
Size 11 Needle
Size 11 needles are slightly thicker than size 9, and are the ideal choice for working with lightweight leathers. This size is great for sewing through thin, soft leather without causing damage. It is also the go-to size for sewing suede, chamois, and other types of leather that are more pliable.
Size 14 Needle
When it comes to heavier leathers, size 14 needles are a must. They are thicker than size 9 and 11 needles, so they can handle more weight and strength. This size is great for sewing through leather that is 1mm to 2mm thick, such as cowhide or bridle leather.
Size 18 Needle
The size 18 needle is the thickest and strongest of the bunch. It is made for heavier leathers that are more than 2mm thick, like saddle leather. This size is also great for sewing through heavy canvas, heavy vinyl, and other thick materials.
Keep in mind that the size of the needle is just one factor to consider when sewing leather. It’s important to choose the right thread for the job as well. If you use a thread that is too fine for the fabric, the stitches won’t be strong enough to hold the fabric together. If you use a thread that is too thick for the fabric, the stitches will be too loose and you won’t get a good grip on the fabric.
It’s also important to make sure you use the right type of needle for the application. Leather needles are made with a sharp point that can penetrate the leather fabric more easily, reducing the likelihood of snagging or tearing the fabric. Universal needles, on the other hand, have a rounded tip and are better suited for lighter fabrics.
To get the best results when sewing leather, make sure you use the right size needle and the right type of thread. Once you have all the necessary tools, you can easily create garments and accessories that will last for years to come.
Best Thread to Use for Leather
When it comes to choosing the thread for leather sewing, it’s best to stick to nylon, cotton-wrapped polyester, or polyester threads. Nylon thread is strong and abrasion-resistant, making it ideal for a variety of leather sewing projects. Cotton-wrapped polyester is also strong, yet provides a softer finished look. Polyester thread is particularly durable and resistant to fading, making it great for projects that are exposed to sunlight.
When choosing the thread, it’s important to pick a thread that is strong enough to handle the tension of the stitch. The thread should also be matched to the size of the needle used. Thread that is too thin won’t provide enough grip on the fabric, while thread that is too thick can cause bunching and drag on the fabric.
Before you start stitching, always take the time to test the thread and needle on scrap leather to ensure the best results. Also, keep in mind that thread that is specifically designed for sewing leather will likely give you the best results.
Alternative Leather Needles
In addition to regular sewing machine needles, there are also alternative needles that may be better suited for your projects. Leather needles are slightly curved to better penetrate the thicker leather fabric. Twill needles have an even sharper point to penetrate the multi-ply weaves, and are great for leather work that requires a lot of detail, such as small buttonholes and zigzag stitching.
Embroidery needles, on the other hand, have a large eye and a long shaft. This type of needle is best for threading heavy embroidery thread, and is also great for stitching detailed embroidery onto leather. Lastly, tapestry needles have a large eye and a triangular shaft, and are ideal for stitching through multiple layers of leather.
Overlocking Stitch for Leather
Overlocking stitch is a great way to finish off raw edges and secure stitching on leather. This type of stitch is made with an overlocker or serger machine, which creates a neat and secure seam without the bulk. The machine creates a beautiful finished edge that is perfectly stable, and helps to reinforce and protect the seam.
When stitching with an overlocker, it’s important to use special needles designed for thick threads and heavy fabrics. The thread should also be matched to the size of the needle, and it’s best to use a polyester or nylon thread that is designed specifically for leather work. Lastly, it’s important to adjust the tension and stitch length to ensure a strong and durable seam.
Safety Precautions When Sewing Leather
It’s important to take extra safety measures when sewing with leather. The fabric can be tough on needles and threads, so it’s important to use the right tools and adjust the tension accordingly. It’s also important to use a presser foot that is designed for leather work, as this will help to prevent the fabric from sliding around and bunching up.
When stitching, always use a thimble or finger guard to protect your fingers from the sharp needle. In addition, it’s important to wear protective eyewear to avoid any small pieces of leather or thread from getting in your eyes.
Finally, never sew wrinkled leather. The leather should always be wet or damp before stitching to ensure a strong and smooth seam. This will also help to keep the leather from shrinking once the project is complete.
