Introduction
From hand-stitched leather clothing to customized leather bags, sewing with leather is an enjoyable way to create one-of-a-kind items. While leather is a material traditionally associated with professional leather craftspeople, it can also be used by individuals with a basic knowledge of sewing. The question for many sewers is whether or not it’s possible to use a regular sewing machine for leather or if specialty machines are necessary.
Working with Regular Machines
In general, a regular sewing machine can be used to sew leather, albeit with a few additional steps. Before beginning, the machine must be adjusted to ensure the leather is sewn properly. This includes changing the presser foot, loosening the upper thread tension and increasing the stitch length. A walking, roller or Teflon presser foot can provide extra control and pressure when sewing. Accessory items such as a leather needle, special leather presser foot and a leather sewing machine throat plate can also make sewing leather easier and more precise.
Choosing the Right Leather Type
The secret to successful leather sewing with a regular sewing machine is choosing the right type of leather. Soft and supple leathers, such as lambskin and nappa, can be sewn with a regular machine, while stiff leathers such as full-grain and heavyweight leathers may require the use of a specialized leather machine. It’s best to test the chosen leather on the sewing machine before beginning the project.
Successful Sewing Strategies
Regardless of the machine used, there are several effective strategies to ensure successful leather sewing. In most cases, it’s best to use a pattern with few to no seams as curved seams may be difficult to sew and may require pressing equipment. It’s also important to thoroughly mark the sewing lines with a tracing wheel and chalk before sewing. For increased accuracy, create a “paste” from flour, salt and water to hold the leather in place when cutting.
Joining and Enhancing Leather Pieces
Joining irregularly-shaped pieces of leather or repeating the same seam without interruption can be difficult. For challenging projects such as these, experts may recommend using a specialized leather machine or hand stitching the seams. Other common problems include puckering or stretching of the leather, which can be addressed by using a stabilizer, such as poly-mesh or interfacing, on the back side of the leather. Lastly, an edge coating can give the leather a professional finish and help to protect the seams.
Common Mistakes
Several mistakes may be made while sewing leather on a regular machine. First, each end of the thread must be knotted manually in order to prevent it from coming undone. Secondly, over-tightening the machine’s pressure settings can cause bunched seams and result in an undesired finish. Lastly, a leather needle should always be used as regular needles may leave marks on the leather.
Storing and Carrying Leather Fabric
When not in use, leather fabric should be stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight or strong air movements. The material should also be kept away from particular liquids and materials such as acetone, ammonia and petroleum-based treatments as these substances can damage leather. The material should also be protected when transporting it to prevent it from snagging on obstructions.
Cleanliness and Maintenance
Leather fabric should be kept free from dust, dirt and other debris while working. Regular woolen dusters should be avoided as they may scratch the material. Leather can also be dyed, waxed and finished, as long as it’s done correctly. Certain products such as neetsfoot oil and saddle soap can also help to prolong the life of the leather.
Alternatives to Regular Machine Sewing
Aside from traditional sewing machines, it may also be possible to use alternatives such as manual machines, rivets and fasteners, snaps and specialty threads. In some cases, certain durable fabrics can be combined with leather to give each item a unique look. Additionally, specialized machines such as saddle-stitching machines, saddle-stretching machines and patch machines are designed to make the process of creating and repairing leather items easier.
Understanding Leather Types
Although a regular sewing machine can be used for leather, understanding the different types of leather available is essential. This includes the weight and thickness of the material, the color and texture of the leather, and the amount of flexibility the leather has. Additionally, understanding the makeup of the leather, such as whether it is cow hide, pigskin or synthetic, is also important.
Correct Machines and Needles
When sewing leather, the right materials are necessary in order to get the desired results. In most cases, a heavy-duty machine and leather needles can provide the most successful outcome. If the intended leather project must be precise and precise, then a specialized leather machine and needle may require a more specialized sewing machine in order to be successful.
Additional Tools and Equipment
Depending on the project, additional tools and equipment such as rotary cutters, leather punches, and leather burnish tools may be necessary. The type of tools required will depend on the project and the thickness, weight and finish of the leather. Specialty tools such as skiving knives, slitting chisels, creasing tools and bevelers may also be necessary.
Conclusion
In conclusion, while regular sewing machines can be used to sew with leather, extra steps such as changing the machine settings and using specialty items such as needles and presser feet may be required. Additionally, choosing the correct type of leather, using the correct tools, and understanding the makeup of the material are essential to successful leather projects.
