Sewing machines are a convenient and inexpensive way to create custom apparel, bags and even hats. Knowing how to choose the correct thread for your sewing machine can help you produce quality and long-lasting stitches. Many projects fail or take longer to complete because of the improper use of thread. Therefore, selecting the right thread is one of the key factors in getting the desired results.
When selecting a thread, the type of fabric is among the most important factors to consider. Thread is available in different qualities and materials, including cotton, polyester and nylon. Depending on the type of fabric, the right thread can be chosen, as each fabric has a different level of resistance and strength. For example, denser fabrics like denim and canvas require sturdy threads, while soft and delicate materials like chiffon and silk require weaker, more delicate ones.
In addition, sewists should take into account the colour of the fabric, as well as the type of stitch. If opting for a pattern, for example, the same colour of thread must be chosen. On the other hand, if the purpose is to create a contrasting look, then a different colour of thread should be selected. Matching the correct colour of thread with the fabric is important for its appearance and longevity, as it prevents future discoloration.
Furthermore, the size of the thread matters when selecting the right one for one’s machine. Thread measurements are expressed in both a number scale, or denier, or weight, or tex. Threads of 30-40 weight or Tex 30 will allow thick fabric to pass through the machine without difficulty. For finer fabrics, like silk and organza, a thread of 60-80 weight or Tex 60 will do the job. To save time, it is convenient to buy a cone that contains approximately 4,500 yards of thread.
Finally, considering the type of stitch is necessary when looking for the right thread. For example, different stitches, such as embroidery, hems and lockstitches, require different types of thread. Embroidery thread is usually thinner than others and usually made of cotton or silk, while hems and lockstitches require stronger, firmer thread. Additionally, when selecting thread, it’s important to take into account the machine’s capabilities and the task that needs to be completed.
Machine Lint and Tensions
As sewing machines are used, lint builds up, affecting the performance of the machine’s needles, presser foot and feed dogs. If the machine is not adequately cleaned, malfunctioning or shortened thread may be the result. Regularly cleaning and oiling the machine helps avoid lint buildup, allowing the thread to run extensively without tangling.
Thread tension is another vital component when selecting the right thread. If thread tension is too loose, loops or skipped stitches will occur; if it’s too tight, it can cause breakage or uneven stitches. The quality of thread and the tension setting depend on the fabric type, stitch technique and thread weight. Therefore, when changing fabric, the thread tension should be adjusted the according to the fabric being seek. To determine the correct tension, look for the number indicated on the machine, usually depicted between ‘lo’ and ‘hi’.
Right tension is achieved when the top thread is slightly loose after the hook passes, creating an ‘S’ shape. If the tension is too loose, stitches may be too loose and appear stretched on the underside of the fabric. Conversely, if the tension is too tight, the fabric will look ruffled, and stitches on the underside may be very tight.
When to use a Specialty Thread
Aside from traditional thread, specialty thread is typically used to complete intricate projects. Specialty thread also works well on thicker fabric and adding decorative details, and consists of a wide range of textures and patterns, including wooly nylon and metallic thread. In terms of properties, specialty thread helps strengthen the stitching, but it must be compatible with the fabric to achieve the desired results.
When using specialty thread, it is important to take into account the sewing machine tensions, as they differ from traditional tensions. Moreover, when stitching with a decorative thread, think ahead to secure any bordering seamline. Since specialty thread is usually heavier, it puts extra strain on the stitches, so it’s important to use backstitches to prevent the seam from unraveling.
Another powerful tool for creating intricate designs are bobbin threads. These threads are usually lighter weight than top threads and are typically loaded vertically, allowing the thread to penetrate fully into the fabric. When using bobbin thread, the stitch length should be adjusted to compensate for the thickness of the fabric, as a longer stitch will result in bunching and puckering.
Different Types of Sewing Thread
The traditional thread is a 3-ply thread of the same colour, predominantly made of polyester. It consists of multiple strands twisted together for extra strength. This type of thread is usually used for general purpose sewing, such as seams and simple hems.
On the other hand, coreless Polyester thread, usually a 2-ply thread, is ideal for light and flexible fabrics, such as lace and silk. It permits less friction between the fabric and thread which helps produce clean and invisible stitches, as the core has been removed from the filament.
In contrast, quilting thread, which is usually made of cotton, is slightly thicker than the traditional thread and works best when using multiple fabrics and adding decorative embellishments. When using a heavier thread, a larger needle such as 90/14, is suitable, as it prevents strain on the thread.
Moreover, when stitching together heavy fabrics such as denim, top-stitching thread, which is usually made of polyester or spun polyester, provides a polished and professional look. It is important to note that when using thicker thread, the tension of the machine must be adjusted according to the needle size to prevent loosening of the stitch.
Maintenance
Tangled threads are a common issue amongst sewists. To avoid the risk of tangles and knots, threads should be removed from the spool and neatly wound, as this helps to distribute the thread evenly.
Conveniently, cone-shaped thread can last for over 6 months and can be used for a range of sewing projects. To keep the thread in good condition, it should be stored away from heat and dust in a cool, dark and dry place.
Additionally, when changing thread colour or type, the needle should be replaced or loosen completely, allowing the thread to pass without knots.
Thread Quality
The quality of thread makes a giant difference when stitching. The thread must be fresh, of a good quality, and free of knots and imperfections. In addition, when searching for thread, it’s advised to refer to thread charts, as these will indicate the appropriate thread for each fabric. These charts can be found online and in the sewing section of some stores.
Finally, when looking for thread, the brand is an important consideration due to the quality of materials used. Higher quality thread costs a bit more than standard thread, but it can help create well-crafted projects without a lot of futzing. In general, it’s always best to invest in good quality thread to ensure long-lasting and beautiful results.
