What is Lettuce Hem?
A lettuce hem is a distinctive detached edge which is used in garments for a decorative effect. It is comprised of a thin line of stitching in the same colour thread as the fabric, usually surrounding tiny ruffles or pleats which give the garment a unique flare and texture. Once the item is completed, the hem provides a unique, delicate accent.
Lettuce hems are generally used on lightweight fabrics such as silk, satin and chiffon. Traditionally, these fabrics were simply sewn by hand but with the advent of modern technology, they can now be sewn by machine.
Considerations When Sewing a Lettuce Hem on a Sewing Machine
When deciding to sew a lettuce hem on a sewing machine you should consider the fabric you are working with. Lettuce hems are usually sewn on lightweight fabrics such as silk and chiffon but can also be used on heavier fabrics such as denim. If you are using a heavier fabric you will need to choose a thicker thread and may need to adjust the tension on your machine to ensure the stitches are even and have enough tension.
Another consideration is the stitch you will use. A basic straight stitch is usually used for lettuce hems but can be substituted for a decorative stitch for a more ornate look. You can use a variety of decorative stitches such as a scallop stitch or an elastic stitch for a more unique effect.
The length of stitch you use is also important. A typical length for a lettuce hem is between 2 and 3 millimetres. However, some fabrics, such as silk, may require a shorter stitch. Too long of a stitch can cause the fabric to bunch up and create an uneven hem.
How to Thread the Sewing Machine
Before you can start sewing your lettuce hem, you must thread your machine. Firstly, wind a suitable length of thread onto the spool and slide it onto the spool pin. Thread the machine by following the upper thread guide, lower thread guide, and needle eyelet. Finally, tie a knot at the end of the thread or use a threader to help thread the machine.
Note: if you are using a decorative stitch such as a scallop stitch, you may need to adjust the tension according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
How to Sew the Hem
Once the machine is threaded, you can begin sewing your lettuce hem. Secure the fabric in place on the machine table. You will need to sew a line of stitching around the perimeter of the garment, with the hem slightly above the rest of the fabric.
When sewing the lettuce hem, the stitch length should be between 2 and 3 mm. Choose a straight stitch or a decorative stitch if desired. Remember to keep the fabric taut while you sew, as this will prevent any puckering or bunching of the fabric.
When you are done, pull the threads at the end of the row of stitching and tie off the threads with a knot. Trim any loose threads, and your lettuce hem is complete.
Tips for Sewing a Lettuce Hem
Sewing a lettuce hem can be tricky, but with a few tips you can get a professional-looking result. Make sure the fabric is held taut and that the stitch length is correct for the fabric you are using. It’s also a good idea to practice a few times on scrap fabric before attempting to sew a lettuce hem on an actual garment.
It is also wise to use a fabric stabilizer such as interfacing or a medium-weight non-woven stabilizer when sewing a lettuce hem. This will help to prevent the fabric from wrinkling or pulling while the hem is being stitched.
How to Sew Multiple Lettuce Hems
If you are looking to add more than one lettuce hem to your garment, it is important to keep the rows of stitching straight and even. You can mark the stitches on the right side of the garment with a chalk marker or tailor’s chalk to help keep everything straight while stitching. This will ensure that your lettuce hems are all evenly spaced.
It is also important to pay attention to the thread tension when sewing multiple rows of lettuce hems. The tension should be consistent for each row of stitching. If you find that the tension varies between rows, it could create an uneven, lumpy looking hem.
How to Sew a Wide Lettuce Hem
When sewing a wide lettuce hem, the same basic principles apply. The fabric should be held taut while stitching and the stitch length should be kept consistent. However, with a wider hem it is important to keep the stitching evenly spaced. If the stitching is too close together, it could create a bulky, uneven hem.
It is also important to use a wider stitch when sewing a wide lettuce hem. A wider stitch will ensure that the fabric does not pull or pucker as it is stitched. A stitch length between 3 and 4 mm is usually recommended for wide lettuce hems.
How to Sew an Inverted Lettuce Hem
An inverted lettuce hem is similar to a regular lettuce hem but has a different appearance due to the fact that the ruffles are on the inside of the garment rather than the outside. To sew an inverted lettuce hem, you will need to stitch twice, once along the top of the hem and once along the bottom.
It is important to use a very fine thread when sewing an inverted lettuce hem as the inside of the garment will be visible. A lightweight stabilizer may also be used to help keep the fabric from bunching or wrinkling while stitching.
How to Finish the Lettuce Hem
Once the lettuce hem is complete, it is important to finish it properly. To do this, fold the fabric under along the line of stitching and press. Pressing the hem helps to give it a nice, neat finish and also helps to keep the fabric from shifting as you move the garment.
Once the press is complete, you can trim any excess thread or fabric from the garment. It is important to use sharp scissors when trimming the fabric as dull scissors can cause the fabric to fray. Be sure to leave a small border around the lettuce hem for a professional-looking finish.
