Have you ever wanted to take matters into your own hands and hem your own blue jeans? Hemming blue jeans is doable for any confident seamstress and can be a rewarding experience. It does not matter if you are using a modern, traditional, or vintage sewing machine; here is a step-by-step guide on how to hem blue jeans using a sewing machine with industry advice from experts.
First and foremost, gather your materials: scissors, thread, a tailor’s measuring tape, and the jeans you plan to hem. Lay the blue jeans out on a flat surface and measure the inseam. This will be the new length you will hem the jeans to. Before cutting, make sure to add a 1/2 inch to the inseam measurement to allow for the hem. Make a mark where you plan to cut and use the scissors to carefully smooth out any frays or ridges.
Next, turn the jeans inside out and measure the desired length. Use the tailor’s measuring tape to make sure you are cutting the jeans to the correct length. It is important to remember to leave a 1/2 inch of extra fabric for the hem. Cut the extra fabric off.
Now begin the hemming process. Start by folding the raw edge of the jeans under 1/4 inch, then again another 1/4 inch. Make sure that the two layers of the fabric are even. Use a safety pin to hold the fabric in place while you start sewing. It is up to the seamstress’ discretion to choose where to start sewing the hem but it is key to begin with a back stitch. If the desired hem is a single line of stitches, then sew slowly and continue along the area of the fold. If a double line of stitches is desired, sew a simple running stitch along the top of the fold. Make sure to use thread which emulates the color of the jeans.
This method is not difficult but proper attention must be paid to the fabric, measurements, and stitching for a successful hem job. Remember to pin the fabric well and use a curved needle for maneuverability. The back stitch is essential to secure the fabric. “It’s very important to plan ahead and allow extra fabric for a hem of desired length,” says seamstress Faith Daniels. “This will save time and materials, and most importantly there will be a more professional finish.”
Finally, finish the hem with a zig-zag stitch to prevent fraying. There are various kinds of zig-zag stitching and the seamstress should pick the one the best suits their project. To complete the task, use a seam ripper to open any extra threads and press the hem into place with a hand iron or steamer.
Preservation
For blue jeans that need to be preserved and protected, double-stitching or creating a French hem is always recommended as it will bring longevity to the item. With double-stitching, the pattern calls for creating two parallel rows of stitching that are symmetrical. This technique keeps the jeans from fraying and helps maintain the longevity of the fabric. This process, however, is usually more complex than single-hem stitching, making it better-suited for experienced seamstresses.
“Double-stitching is an ideal way of protecting the hem of your jeans for longer,” says seamstress Dora Milner. “This method ensures that the jeans retain their shape for much longer which is great for jeans preservation.” Single stitching is more suitable for novice sewers who are more comfortable with basic sewing techniques.
Tools
Whether you’re an expert seamstress or just curious to try, it’s always important to use the right tools. Using hot tools such as irons, presses, or steamers (as opposed to hand tools) helps to create strong seams and clean, precise hems. It is also essential to use the right type of needles and thread to guarantee hems will last. For best results, use fine or light weight thread, such as all-purpose polyester or cotton instead of heavyweight thread. It is also beneficial to invest in a quality, sharp needle.
Experienced seamstress Ben Norris says:”Specialty denim needles, such as jeans needles, are hard and smooth, making it easier to sew through heavy fabrics like denim. Threads made of synthetic materials such as polyester have a superior strength in comparison to natural materials and are more abrasion-resistant.”
Stitching Types
The type of hem stitch is important according to the desired aesthetic and its strength. A chain stitch has a zig-zag pattern with a slightly wavy appearance. It is also slightly more secure than a straight stitch. A lock stitch is a double chain stitch which looks smoother and is commonly used for hems because of its superior stability. Finally, the coverstitch is visible on the exterior of the jeans and is commonly found in the ready-to-wear jeans. It cannot be done on a domestic sewing machine and requires a specialized coverstitch machine.
“The coverstitch is ideal if the desired effect is to keep the jeans look professionally finished,” says seamstress Miranda Grey. “It’s considered the strongest type of stitching so it’s better if you’re looking for a hem that will last longer.”
Accessories
There are a variety of fun accessories that can be added to create customization and personalization for jeans. Inspiration can come from a variety of places; those include vintage styles, ready-to-wear items, or the seamstress’ own ideas. Some fun extras that can be added to the jeans include a patch pocket, rivets, or even decorative stitches.
When applying accessories to the jeans, the process is done by pinning the accessory in place, then basting around it to keep it securely in place before sewing. If the material being used is light in weight, then extra thread should be used to secure the piece. Experienced seamstress Tessa Jones recommends using a dab of fabric glue to hold the items in place prior to sewing for more heavy-duty jeans.
Techniques
Basic hand sewing techniques can be attempted with stable denim materials. It is important to neaten the edges with a zig-zag stitch or an overlock stitch before hand sewing begins. Thread that matches the colour of the jeans should be used for hand stitching for a more professional finish. Finally, set the stitching with a hot iron to secure the thread.
“Hand stitching is a great way to create a neat hem and keep the fabric secure,” comments seamstress Jane Anderson. “It’s important to be gentle with your hand movements and to secure your work afterwards by pressing the stitches.”
Troubleshooting
When learning to hem jeans, there may be a few areas that require troubleshooting. It is common to score the fabric while sewing, break needles when stitching through a particularly tough area, or create an uneven hem. If scissors slipped during cutting, the fabric can also look uneven. If a thread snaps, then sew the area over again to secure the hem.
“When sewing with denim, you may encounter a few issues,” explains seamstress Miranda Parker. “Remember that practice makes perfect and don’t give up if it does not turn out perfectly the first time. Take time to troubleshoot the area and learn from the experience.”
