Introduction
Dressing up for a special occasion can be incredibly exciting, but it can also be daunting when it comes to making sure the perfect fit is achieved. Whether you’re a professional tailor or simply a fashion enthusiast, having the ability to sew a dress hem is an essential skill. With the right supplies, technique, and patience, you can learn how to effectively hem a dress using a sewing machine.
Supplies
The supplies needed for hemming a dress with a sewing machine are pretty straightforward. Select quality thread in a colour that matches the colour of the fabric, as well as a suitable needle. For thick fabrics, a thicker, more durable needle is recommended. To make the hem, an iron and ironing board, tailor’s chalk, pins, and scissors will be necessary to complete the task.
Preparation
Once you have the right supplies, it’s time to prepare the dress. The first step is to choose the appropriate seam allowance based on the fabric and the desired hem length. A standard seam allowance is usually one and a half inches, but fabrics such as silk or chiffon can require less depending on the style and fit.
Once the seam allowance has been determined, pin it in place and iron the material to ensure it is neater and flat. Lastly, use tailor’s chalk to mark the fabric at the correct seam allowance that the user is aiming for.
Sewing the Hem
Now the dress is ready for hemming. Start by using a straight stich to sew along the pin line, and remove the pins as you go. Sew slowly and make sure the fabric is tailored correctly, as it will have to be undone if there are any mistakes.
When finished, tuck the raw edge of the fabric to the wrong side of the dress and pin it in place. With the straight stitch already in place, use a zig-zag stitch of the same length to secure the hem in place. Make sure to pin around the circumference of the hem for a more secure attachment.
Finishing touches
Once the hem is secured, take the dress off the sewing machine and cut the loose threads. To give the hem added stability and durability, use an overlock foot to sew over the raw edge of the fabric that was tucked to the wrong side of the dress. This will give a neat and professional look to the hem.
Pressing the Hem
Pressing the hem is a crucial step to giving a more finished and tailored look to the dress. Start by rolling up a towel in the shape of a sock, and insert it into the hemed area of the dress. This will allow the user to iron the hem without flattening or ruining the shape of the dress.
Once the towel is in place and the iron is set to the correct heat setting for the fabric, press the hem to give the dress an even finish. Take extra care to avoid stretching or misshaping the fabric as it’s being ironed.
Trimming the Excess Fabric
To finish off the hem and make sure it is secure and durable, use sharp scissors to trim the folded seam allowance at the inside of the hem. Once the excess fabric is trimmed, press the hem again for evenness and to make sure it is securely attached.
Testing the Completion
To check the success of your hem, try the dress on and test out the comfort and fit. If it feels secure and well-hemmed, the job is done!
Alternating Styles of Hemming
When hemming the dress, there are a variety of styles that can be applied to the hem to create different looks. This includes a blind hem, which is typically used for women’s dresses and skirts, and a French hem, which is more visible and is often used in formal garments. Blind hemming involves folding the hem up to create a hidden line of stitching, while French hemming involves rolling the fabric over and top stitching it for a neat finish.
Double Hemmed Dresses
Double hemmed styles are a great way of adding a unique flair to any garment. This technique involves folding the hem over twice before or after stitching, achieving a more voluminous look. To successfully double hem a dress, firstly press the fabric to one side and then fold it over again to the length of the desired hem. Secure the hem with pins and press it again, and then proceed to sew the desired design along the hem.
Untraditional Hemming
Untraditional hemming techniques can often be used to add an interesting touch to dresses and skirts. This can include fraying the fabric for a beachy look, adding subtle braiding for texture, or even pinning sequins for an extra layer of flair.
When it comes to untraditional hemming, the possibilities are endless. Experiment with different stitches, fabrics and embellishments until you achieve the desired look.
Easing a Hem
Easing a hem is a technique that is commonly used when creating fitted garments. This involves gathering the fabric in order to help the garment fit around the body’s curves. To ease a hem, start by sewing on a seam allowance slightly smaller than the desired finished seam allowance.
Once that is done, fill the seam allowance with pins, evenly spaced apart. Using the gathering stitch, attach the pins and then move the needle to the left hand side and sew over the pins, loosening the tension as the fabric is gathered. This works best with lightweight fabrics such as chiffon or lace, but it is also possible to do on a thicker material.
Floating Hems
Floating hems are a great way to add a delicate and subtle look to garments. To achieve this look, start by sewing two seam allowances and then iron it to create a neat finish. Once pressed, use a wide zig-zag stitch to create tiny loops along the folded edge of the fabric.
The secret to a successful hem is to use light and consistent tension whilst stitching the loops. When complete, the hem should look like it is floating on the fabric. This is an ideal way to add texture to a garment without adding too much bulk.
