How to Hem Stretch Fabric with a Sewing Machine
Hemming stretch fabric with a sewing machine should not be a difficult task. With the right preparation, materials, and tools, you can create a professional-looking hem in no time.
Background Information
Stretch fabrics, such as jersey and interlock, are perfect for creating comfortable garments like leggings, tees, and workout wear. Although these fabrics are ideal for activewear, the stretchy fibers can be tricky to work with for finicky details such as hems.
Relevant Data and Perspectives from Experts
According to professional tailor and YouTube creator Gretchen Hirsch, there are several key steps to tackle when hemming stretch fabrics. Hirsch states that it all starts with stabilizing your fabric and using the right sewing machine needle for the job. While consistent accuracy is important in any hemming job, it is especially important when working with stretch fabrics since any mistake can distort the fit and look of the finished garment.
For stretch fabrics, it is best to use a ballpoint, jersey, or stretch sewing machine needle. Ballpoint needles are designed to work with knits while jersey needles help to feed the knit fabric more smoothly. Stretch needles, on the other hand, help to prevent skipped stitches, binding, and shredding of the fabric.
It is also essential to use the right stitch in hemming stretchy fabrics. Hirsch suggests using a narrow zigzag or triple zigzag for a nice, even finish. Both stitch types will allow for necessary flexibility without bunching or breaking the stitches.
Add Own Insights and Analysis
At this point, you may be overwhelmed, but by following standard rules and taking your time, hemming stretch fabrics can be a breeze. I would recommend taking an afternoon and practicing on scrap fabric before attempting a project. This will give you the experience and confidence to get the hang of controlling the thickness of your fabric and utilizing the right needle, thread, and stitch type.
It is also essential to use thread specifically designed for stretch fabrics. Regular sewing thread will not stretch with the fabric and can break easily. Fortunately, there is a range of quality threads designed to provide better stability and flexibility such as Gutermann’s Elastik or Mettler’s Polyester Stretch Thread.
Educate and Engage the Reader
Once you have the right tools and materials, the process of hemming stretch fabrics should be relatively straightforward. Kaelin Poulin, a.k.a. The Creative Curator, suggests using pins to hold the fabric in place for a secure finish. Avoid using pins that have large heads as these will create a bulky seam.
When it is time to stitch, utilize a stabilizer or tailor’s tape along the hemline for a professional-looking finish. Stabilizers help to keep the fabric lying flat and prevent it from shifting as you sew. Additionally, always finish your stitches by back tacking at the start and end of every hem. This will provide extra security when working with stretch fabrics.
Use Emotional Triggers
But the most important step is to take your time when hemming stretchy fabrics. Rushing the job will usually result in an uneven, lumpy hem! So be patient, make sure you’re prepared with the right materials, and enjoy the process of making a custom garment that fits you like a dream.
Avoid the Passive Voice and Use the Active Voice Instead
When stitching a hem on a stretchy fabric, make sure to use a ballpoint, jersey, or stretch needle with the proper stitch selection. Utilize a tailor’s tape or stabilizer when needed and take your time for a smooth, consistent finish. Secure your stitches with back-tacking before trimming the excess thread for a professional-looking product.
Understanding Shrinkage of Stretchy Fabrics
When working with stretch fabrics, it is essential to consider how the fabric will react to regular washings and drying. Most fabrics will shrink in length, width, or both when it is exposed to excessive heat or moisture. To avoid shrinking, it is best to use a gentle cycle or to simply hand-wash the fabric.
If you do go through the laundering process with a stretchy fabric, there are a few tricks you can use to keep the fit of your garments intact. For instance, try using cold or lukewarm water and hanging the garment to air dry or tumble drying it on low for a few minutes. You can also wash the fabric before hemming it to ensure the best fit after washing.
Stretching with Appropriate Materials
With thinner fabrics, you may need to use a stabilizer or interfacing to help keep the fabric stable while stitching. However, with stretch fabrics, you will want to use a specially designed stretch material such as tricot mesh interfacing that can stretch with the fabric. This will help to keep the garment fitting properly while allowing it to move and contour with the body.
Using Bias Tape and Coverstitches
Finally, you can also use bias tape or a coverstitch machine to get a professional-looking finish to your hem. Bias tape is a great way to add a neat finish to a hem and prevent it from fraying or stretching out. A coverstitch machine is perfect for finishing hems on stretchy fabrics as it uses two different needles and threads which will help to secure the hem and provide a flexible finish.
Investing in Quality Supplies
Of course, when working with any type of fabric it is important to invest in high-quality supplies. Good quality needles and thread such as Gutermann’s Elastik or Mettler’s Polyester Stretch Thread, as well as a reliable coverstitch machine, are essential in creating a professional-looking hem. Quality supplies will help to ensure that your garment will last through many washings and wears.
Choosing the Right Hemming Technique
The type of hem you use will depend on the fabric you are using and the style of the garment. Some hems are easier to do progressively while others work better with a continuous hem. Decide which works best with your project, practice with scrap fabric and then proceed when you are comfortable and confident.
Securing the Hem
Once the hem is in place, it is important to secure it in order to prevent fraying and stretching of the fabric. Using a lightweight fusible stay tape is one way to provide extra stability and firmness to a hem. This is also a great option for projects that are exposed to wear and tear such as baby clothes.
Seaming Stretch Fabrics
When attaching a hem to an already finished garment, it is best to use seaming tape or a loop turner to create a professional-looking finish. Seaming tape is a special webbing that will help attach binding to your hem without leaving any visible stitches. The loop turner, on the other hand, will help to conceal the stitches by hiding them inside the garment.
